Hindle Exhaust

[smporter420]

So I took off my old muffler to put on the Hindle. The seal the dealer gave me is too small. But even if it was the right size I dont see it fitting. The Hindle exhaust fits tight on the pipe where it connects to the bike. Also I could not get the bracket on the muffler to line up with the hole to put the bolt back in. There is a rubber bushing that is in the way and it will not budge either way. So I ended up bolting it directly bellow. I started it and let it run 15 min and shut it off, no leaks. Will this hurt the bike running without the gasket between the Hindle and the manifold ? Just need to drive it down to the dealer, about 86 miles.


Any suggestions

 

[Lamonster]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?12907-No-wonder-your-Hindle-leaks

 

[smporter420]

Also there was a strange smell, like burning plastic. Is that normal?

Sent from my SCH-R760 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Firefly]

The smell is normal when you first run the Hindle. There is no gasket that you use... it's a slip-on. I cut slits in mine as Lamont recommended and also used some high-temp (copper color) RTV.

Had the same deal with my HMF slip-on.... cut slits in it and used RTV to make sure no leaks.

 

[tajohn]

I too had slots cut and have had no leaks to date. I did lose a heat shield, due to shrinking rivets from heating and cooling. I replaced all heat shield rivets with stainless steel allen head bolts, nuts with flat and lock washers no more rattling heat shields. It would help if BRP would address the field mods we have all proven and have them make a Spyder Hindle.

 

[bone crusher]

I too had slots cut and have had no leaks to date. I did lose a heat shield, due to shrinking rivets from heating and cooling. I replaced all heat shield rivets with stainless steel allen head bolts, nuts with flat and lock washers no more rattling heat shields. It would help if BRP would address the field mods we have all proven and have them make a Spyder Hindle.

No need to replace rivets...just use this glue...works like a charm and holds those rivets in place...and no, the glue doesn't melt once it is hardened...I don't think I've had to re-apply it in 2 years....

http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Loctit...XG64/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1337046070&sr=8-6

 

[Rayelljay]

An interesting thread...I did read the referenced link too, so may I offer this...:

Slitting the end is a great idea and on that diameter you could go as high as eight slits. Excessive clearance between the two components is a significant problem....we used to use strips cut from a beer can to minimize the pre-clamping clearance.
At these diameters with four slits you stand a danger of putting the edge in compression resulting in buckling so, by having eight slots the length of the segment under compression is much shorter and the chance of deformation is much lower.
Hope this helps.