High pitched whine at 45 mph

[Buggyman]

The shop mechanics had disassembled the rear wheel to examine all components including shaft, bearings and belt adjusters, no issue there. Lack of grease not an issue.

 

[Rattlebars]

I recently came to change the rear tire which was the original - on from build date July 2014. I removed the rear wheel myself using the rear shock method following the online videos. I got stuck when I tried to remove the shaft as it wouldn't budge. All the videos show it coming out easily but I had to hammer mine out. When I eventually got it out it was rusted up and dry as a bone where the bearings sit.

So if you'll pardon the expression - check your shaft and get it greased up if needed!! Might remove the problem.

For reference mine had not had the rear wheel removed from the factory and I bought it 6 months old complete with the whine. Also the whine has been consistent in my ownership up until new tire and now it's completely gone.

It is possible that the rust/corrosion on the shaft (not shown) can become attached to the wheel bearings (oval 33) and/or the inner spacer (square 32) and need a bit of persuasion to remove after a long time. However, nothing on the shaft rotates because the inner races of the bearings are locked to the spacer by tightening the axle nut and the outer races are locked to the wheel by press fit. Adding a bit of grease will facilitate the removal of the axle next time around because the corrosion is ameliorated. The bearings are sealed so accidental lubrication is not going to be an issue. It's quite possible that in moving all the stuff that is involved with wheel removal you may have hit the sweet spot which reset the belt tension and location to eliminate a whine when you put it back on. Mine is the opposite. When installing the rear wheel after a tire change, I got a little bit of whine which I did not have before. I just got the necessary tools to check (Krikit 2) the tension and will re-align my belt which was once within 1 mm of the rear sprocket inner edge and is now 3.2mm away from same but remains within spec. I will report on the whine cure after that work.

A note on the videos. I did not need to remove the hub (shown in video 1) to get the tire mounted. I took it to an >independant powersports shop< for mounting hub and all and that was that.

 

[monkeyboymorton]

Thanks for the replies and yeah all possible. There was definitely a lot less drag on the rear wheel after I put the shaft back in so maybe it greased the bearings themselves. I only saw the 2 that fit in at either end and didn't remove the ones in the middle of the wheel. It was really quite tight to rotate before.

I don't think the belt tension has changed as I didn't alter anythinig, but I haven't checked it. Vibration/harmonic is the same at about 80mph but I've never found it a particular issue. Perhaps it helps having a prosthetic left foot so Ionly feel the vibes through right hand peg!!

The only other option then is the tire itself as I fitted a Yokohama rather than another Kenda. Could the whine be from the rear tire itself? Seems a bit of a random possibility.

Whatever - mine disappeared overnight so whatever I did it fixed it :dontknow: I'm just glad it's gone - I kept expecting the gearbox to give up the ghost.

 

[monkeyboymorton]

You referenced a video you used as a guide. Do you have a link to that video? Thanks

The one rattlebars posted is the one but he does skip a bit when he's removing the shaft. There's a cut and then he's pulling the shaft out I think.

 

[Rattlebars]

As promised. My whine is gone for the most part. It was more of a whistle. My belt tension was about 110 (low) and my belt was 3.2 mm from the inner rim of the sprocket measured with a digital caliper. My new belt tension is roughly 150 and the distance from the inner sprocket rim has been adjusted to 1mm (too narrow to measure with a caliper).

 

[PinkRosePetal]

As promised. My whine is gone for the most part. It was more of a whistle. My belt tension was about 110 (low) and my belt was 3.2 mm from the inner rim of the sprocket measured with a digital caliper. My new belt tension is roughly 150 and the distance from the inner sprocket rim has been adjusted to 1mm (too narrow to measure with a caliper).

View attachment 174617

The position looks pretty much bang on to me, but what is it that rubs on the outside of your belt?

 

[AeroPilot]

The wifes 16 F3T just had the front sprocket replaced with a new one after she complained of a whining noise under load/acceleration. The shop said the splines were wore and replaced the sprocket under warranty. Since then there has still been a whine/whirrring sound, but the belt alignment looks good, other than the front sprocket which is running towards the outer edge.

I thought that the belt might be getting "used to" the new front sprocket but last week when I was laying under it I used a SMALL PEA -sized dab of synthetic grease (Harbor Freight gray tube) and with it on the end of my index finger, spun the belt and applied a SLIGHT amount to the crest of the belt teeth and a little on the outer edge which was close to the front sprocket flange.

Since then, my wife says the noise is gone, and all is well with the world... hoping so, Your results may Vary:dontknow:

 

[monkeyboymorton]

As promised. My whine is gone for the most part. It was more of a whistle. My belt tension was about 110 (low) and my belt was 3.2 mm from the inner rim of the sprocket measured with a digital caliper. My new belt tension is roughly 150 and the distance from the inner sprocket rim has been adjusted to 1mm (too narrow to measure with a caliper).

View attachment 174617

My belt has always been right up to the inner flange on the rear sprocket and it went straight back there after the tire change with no input from me. I've never checked the front socket alignment - only a quick look for the red rust but all clear for that.

Mine was definitely a whine and it was speed dependant but not gear dependant. So I knew it was in the final drive somewhere.

Following the last post about lubing the belt getting rid of the whine maybe I ended up lubing something other than just the shaft by accident. The mystery deepens - we need Angela Lansbury on the case!!

 

[Rattlebars]

The position looks pretty much bang on to me, but what is it that rubs on the outside of your belt?

That showed itself after installing Lamont's roller on my BRP idler. It's mostly dust.

 

[TIMMB]

I have been dealing with this problem for a year now. Had a 2016 F3L (NO WHINE) and traded it for a 2018 F3L. Noticed the whine from day one. Thought it might go away after sometime or "break-in". Similar to the marbles on the left side of the motor that goes away after the first oil change. Hasn't happened, been to two different dealers both said normal some do it some don't. Loud enough at cruising speed that is very annoying and over the sound of music in my helmet. I can tell you one thing. It has nothing to do with the belt or the rear bearings. It all has to do with the engine and engine RPM at least in my bike. It is there throughout the RPM range and much more noticeable between 2800 and 3600 RPM. Easily proved & you don't need the bike to be moving. Just start it make sure the brake is set and rev the motor up to 3200 RPM (seems the worst here) the whine comes right out of the right side of the motor. What is it? What to do with it? Don't know. I guess I'll just have to keep riding, 3600 miles now. But like everyone says not the quality you expect for the money we pay for these. I suspect the RT's have it too but all the extra panels "hide" the whine better. Love the hear reason for it or a fix! Try my test I would love to hear if anyone else has the same results!

 

[pegasus1300]

View attachment 174624 The wifes 16 F3T just had the front sprocket replaced with a new one after she complained of a whining noise under load/acceleration. The shop said the splines were wore and replaced the sprocket under warranty. Since then there has still been a whine/whirrring sound, but the belt alignment looks good, other than the front sprocket which is running towards the outer edge.

I thought that the belt might be getting "used to" the new front sprocket but last week when I was laying under it I used a pea sized dab of synthetic grease (Harbor Freight gray tube) and with it on the end of my index finger, spun the belt and applied a slight amount to the crest of the belt teeth and a little on the outer edge which was close to the front sprocket flange.

Since then, my wife says the noise is gone, and all is well with the world... hoping so, Your results may Vary:dontknow:View attachment 174625

I don't have this problem as I have an older 998 RT so this is just a shot in the dark but is it possible that a squirt of belt dressing would remove the whine?:dontknow: Just extrapolating here from the dab of grease results. Hope you all find a cure. We went thru this with Yamaha on the Royal Stars and they finally came up with a clutch basket change out, but if that didn't fix it you were just SOL.

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

To answer your question, no.

I think you're right in assuming it's the belt.

Welcome to the "whine" club. Mine does the same thing only from 39-42MPH. I think it's the belt because if you change the belt tension it does it at a different speed. And the alignment on mine is within specs on the rear sprocket.

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

View attachment 174624 The wifes 16 F3T just had the front sprocket replaced with a new one after she complained of a whining noise under load/acceleration. The shop said the splines were wore and replaced the sprocket under warranty. Since then there has still been a whine/whirrring sound, but the belt alignment looks good, other than the front sprocket which is running towards the outer edge.

I thought that the belt might be getting "used to" the new front sprocket but last week when I was laying under it I used a pea sized dab of synthetic grease (Harbor Freight gray tube) and with it on the end of my index finger, spun the belt and applied a slight amount to the crest of the belt teeth and a little on the outer edge which was close to the front sprocket flange.

Since then, my wife says the noise is gone, and all is well with the world... hoping so, Your results may Vary:dontknow:View attachment 174625

Synthetic grease won't cause the belt to deteriorate? That would be my concern. I was considering doing the same thing to mine, using Mobil 1 grease.

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

Better get used to the noise. I had the same noise issue on my 2019 F 3 basic, the machine was in the shop for 7 weeks, the shop was in constant contact with BRP engineering and performed many recommendations from BRP without success.
The final outcome was an agreement between the dealer and BRP to replace my unit with a new one, however the new unit makes the same noise.

DAMN!. You literally replaced every part!

 

[Rattlebars]

I don't have this problem as I have an older 998 RT so this is just a shot in the dark but is it possible that a squirt of belt dressing would remove the whine?:dontknow: Just extrapolating here from the dab of grease results. Hope you all find a cure. We went thru this with Yamaha on the Royal Stars and they finally came up with a clutch basket change out, but if that didn't fix it you were just SOL.

Never thought of that. Great idea. I will try it!

>Belt Dressing<

 

[bcraig]

Never thought of that. Great idea. I will try it!

Tried belt dressing, but no change.

 

[pegasus1300]

sorry to hear that

 

[bcraig]

Just installed the optional BRP Belt Tensioner/idler, but no change.

 

[AeroPilot]

Synthetic grease won't cause the belt to deteriorate? That would be my concern. I was considering doing the same thing to mine, using Mobil 1 grease.

Dont know about Mobil 1 grease, but here is what I found on the Super Lube site from Synco...https://www.super-lube.com/Content/...Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon.pdf It says Not Compatible with silicone rubber but most others look okay...

Personal Disclaimer: No Warranty Expressed OR Implied! :lecturef_smilie:

 

[PinkRosePetal]

Red rubber grease will be ok but it will collect dust and gradually become grinding paste but worth a try if it helps identify the problem IMHO.