HID light install and stalling question...

[bone crusher]

So, I had the ESI HIDs installed...apparently the install went well. The tech much appreciated Lamont's instructions as the ones that came with the lights we're as clear (according to the tech). One somewhat significant problem...

When the bike is warm and you go to turn it on, all is fine...if it cools off for a while, it will stall when first started...hit the button again and the bike starts fine...it's not stalling repeatedly, just the first time as the ballast or whatever needs to charge, get some energy, etc...

It appears that the drain on the electrical system is rather great...my battery is always on a tender so I don't think that's the issue. However, going from stock lights to HIDs is now causing stalling (something BRP warns about). The tech followed Lamont's instructions perfectly...no metal touching or anything obvious that would be an issue...he said the install was pretty easy and the lights are working great...and look great!

I spoke with the tech about this issue and I'm giving it a go. He felt the brief stall wasn't going to cause my battery to fail prematurely as it starts up immediately following, meaning, it only stalls once and it's a brief stall. Do many others here with ESI HIDs have the same issue? Is there an easy solution to this or is it just that the drain is too great?

thanks...

 

[WaltH]

I have had the HID lights (headlight and foglight) from ESI on both of my Spyders without any of the problems you describe. I do remember reading on this forum that the location of the ballast module is important. It should not be making direct contact with the frame, or be placed too near the ignition coil (????). Battery draw has never been a problem with my lights.

 

[leo76dragon]

So, I had the ESI HIDs installed...apparently the install went well. The tech much appreciated Lamont's instructions as the ones that came with the lights we're as clear (according to the tech). One somewhat significant problem...

When the bike is warm and you go to turn it on, all is fine...if it cools off for a while, it will stall when first started...hit the button again and the bike starts fine...it's not stalling repeatedly, just the first time as the ballast or whatever needs to charge, get some energy, etc...

It appears that the drain on the electrical system is rather great...my battery is always on a tender so I don't think that's the issue. However, going from stock lights to HIDs is now causing stalling (something BRP warns about). The tech followed Lamont's instructions perfectly...no metal touching or anything obvious that would be an issue...he said the install was pretty easy and the lights are working great...and look great!

I spoke with the tech about this issue and I'm giving it a go. He felt the brief stall wasn't going to cause my battery to fail prematurely as it starts up immediately following, meaning, it only stalls once and it's a brief stall. Do many others here with ESI HIDs have the same issue? Is there an easy solution to this or is it just that the drain is too great?

thanks...

I was having issues with the HIDs from ESI, I have the HIDs for headlight and foglights... I added the ground wire to coil ( I think???), which custom dynamics suggested I do, made sure the ballasts didnt touch any metal... and used bulbs from another company in the foglights and now it works just fine...

good luck!

DR

 

[bone crusher]

I have had the HID lights (headlight and foglight) from ESI on both of my Spyders without any of the problems you describe. I do remember reading on this forum that the location of the ballast module is important. It should not be making direct contact with the frame, or be placed too near the ignition coil (????). Battery draw has never been a problem with my lights.

no metal on ballast...it's like it has to charge and it's too great a drain on the bike...

 

[bone crusher]

I was having issues with the HIDs from ESI, I have the HIDs for headlight and foglights... I added the ground wire to coil ( I think???), which custom dynamics suggested I do, made sure the ballasts didnt touch any metal... and used bulbs from another company in the foglights and now it works just fine...

good luck!

DR

Sounds like the whole setup didn't work for you....ground wire? New bulbs? Shouldn't have to do that...

I'm getting a start/stall, and then all is fine...I'm wondering what the heck the drain is with the HIDs before they get going....obviously, it's a bit much...

Is this product made by CD/ESI or is it repackaged from some other company? Quality control issues perhaps? It was installed identically to the way Lamont did his and he has no issues...

 

[wyliec]

Sounds like the whole setup didn't work for you....ground wire? New bulbs? Shouldn't have to do that...

I'm getting a start/stall, and then all is fine...I'm wondering what the heck the drain is with the HIDs before they get going....obviously, it's a bit much...

Is this product made by CD/ESI or is it repackaged from some other company? Quality control issues perhaps? It was installed identically to the way Lamont did his and he has no issues...

Jodie from ESI installed mine well over a year ago and I have had no problem. If I remember right (and I'll check if you want), the ballast is sitting on the right hand side under the dash assy; it's not attached to anything nor is it touching metal. If you ask me what it is actually sitting on, I'd have to go and look.

 

[bone crusher]

Jodie from ESI installed mine well over a year ago and I have had no problem. If I remember right (and I'll check if you want), the ballast is sitting on the right hand side under the dash assy; it's not attached to anything nor is it touching metal. If you ask me what it is actually sitting on, I'd have to go and look.

I guess it's fine for now (so I hope)...if I ever get to an event that they're at, I'll ask if they can take a look for me. Because it's not clipping out with every start, I think (and maybe mistakenly so) that it is just the drain with powering up the HIDs...my battery is about 2.5 years old, and it's always on a tender.

Then again, someone else here had ordered 2...one worked, and one wasn't at all...maybe they have a bad batch or something is off with QC?

I'll try starting them sometime while on the battery tender and see if this makes a difference...who knows? It shouldn't be stalling at all...not even once...

 

[Justin]

Sounds like the whole setup didn't work for you....ground wire? New bulbs? Shouldn't have to do that...

I'm getting a start/stall, and then all is fine...I'm wondering what the heck the drain is with the HIDs before they get going....obviously, it's a bit much...

Is this product made by CD/ESI or is it repackaged from some other company? Quality control issues perhaps? It was installed identically to the way Lamont did his and he has no issues...

I'm sure it is just a repackaged kit. I don't have the ESI ones, but I have no issues in all three Spyders with headlights and fogs. The battery light will flicker if I try and start with both lights on.

 

[Firefly]

Sorry you're having problems. The only times mine did that starting thing was when I would leave the fog lights on (which are also HID) when starting the bike. I try to turn them off whenever I park the bike now--- but lately I've been forgetting to do that and have not had that 'starting' problem.

They appear to be 're-branded' units that they tested to meet their requirements--- nothing wrong with that at all-- pretty typical of all HID units-- regardless of who is selling them. Doubt you'll find anyone here in the US that actually manufactures them (or anything else for that matter...).

 

[bone crusher]

Sorry you're having problems. The only times mine did that starting thing was when I would leave the fog lights on (which are also HID) when starting the bike. I try to turn them off whenever I park the bike now--- but lately I've been forgetting to do that and have not had that 'starting' problem.

They appear to be 're-branded' units that they tested to meet their requirements--- nothing wrong with that at all-- pretty typical of all HID units-- regardless of who is selling them. Doubt you'll find anyone here in the US that actually manufactures them (or anything else for that matter...).

Drats...like you, I wish more stuff was made here...

As far as the lights go, the tech who installed them and warned me of the potential issues, was actually pleasantly impressed with them...he didn't think the small stall was a big deal as he kept playing with the ignition to make sure it wouldn't become a problem. He was very anal about installing them and followed Lamont's directions directly. He joked with me about BRP's warning and the small stall issue, but he said he didn't think that there was any harm being done to the bike and that the heavy load to power up the HIDs was causing this...and all should be fine...he loved how bright they were, as do I! What a change...wow!

 

[Justin]

Drats...like you, I wish more stuff was made here...

As far as the lights go, the tech who installed them and warned me of the potential issues, was actually pleasantly impressed with them...he didn't think the small stall was a big deal as he kept playing with the ignition to make sure it wouldn't become a problem. He was very anal about installing them and followed Lamont's directions directly. He joked with me about BRP's warning and the small stall issue, but he said he didn't think that there was any harm being done to the bike and that the heavy load to power up the HIDs was causing this...and all should be fine...he loved how bright they were, as do I! What a change...wow!

Regardless if there is no harm to the Spyder. It should not be stalling.

 

[Machinegunner]

HID lights and problem starting

I sent a message to shop talk about this same problem. ZI istalled a dedicated fused wire directly from the battery. Mounted relay on left side of the air cleaner and triggered it with a wire that gets hot when the key is turned on. Take the two red (hot) wires from the original headlight socket and attach to the relay. Take the two black wires and connect them to ground. Now when the key is turned on the lights will lite. Then start the motor. Should have no more problems any more. The computer does not know if the lights are on or not. The problem is the high current draw when the light lite while trying to start. Hope this helps. Machinegunner.

 

[wyliec]

The problem is the high current draw when the light lite while trying to start.

This is a good reason not to do it IMHO.

bone crusher,

You may just want to see the location of someone's ESI hids that doesn't have the problem and compare to your location.

 

[bone crusher]

This is a good reason not to do it IMHO.

bone crusher,

You may just want to see the location of someone's ESI hids that doesn't have the problem and compare to your location.

Interesting information from everyone...

I spoke with Evan and he recommended warming up the ballasts before starting the bike...also, he mentioned that the ballasts will 'season' over time, reducing the draw as like a break-in period. I haven't fiddled with anything yet, but I'll see what this does.

As far as relocating wires, new fuses, etc...that's above my pay-grade...sounds like a fix, but I can't do that...

 

[Justin]

Interesting information from everyone...

I spoke with Evan and he recommended warming up the ballasts before starting the bike...also, he mentioned that the ballasts will 'season' over time, reducing the draw as like a break-in period. I haven't fiddled with anything yet, but I'll see what this does.

As far as relocating wires, new fuses, etc...that's above my pay-grade...sounds like a fix, but I can't do that...

Warm up ballasts? You serious? I'd be ripping them off the bike. Get new ballasts.

 

[wyliec]

Warm up ballasts? You serious? I'd be ripping them off the bike. Get new ballasts.

How do you warm up the ballasts? Do you turn the ignition to ON; but, do not hit the START button?

 

[Justin]

How do you warm up the ballasts? Do you turn the ignition to ON; but, do not hit the START button?

I guess:dontknow: Maybe use a BIC lighter.

I'm actually surprised this even came up as a solution. IMO it's a junk ballast.

 

[bone crusher]

How do you warm up the ballasts? Do you turn the ignition to ON; but, do not hit the START button?

The drain is with the initial start...once the bike is running, if I turn it off for a bit, it won't stall. It only stalls with a cold start...the ballasts do use a large amount of energy to get going, once going, they use less wattage than the stock bulbs.

You can hit the button on the right side handlebar (to illuminate the trunk) to warm them up for a few seconds...

As far as the ballast being bad, I'm not sure...how many others have this issue? I do not know...

 

[Firefly]

The drain is with the initial start...once the bike is running, if I turn it off for a bit, it won't stall. It only stalls with a cold start...the ballasts do use a large amount of energy to get going, once going, they use less wattage than the stock bulbs.

You can hit the button on the right side handlebar (to illuminate the trunk) to warm them up for a few seconds...

As far as the ballast being bad, I'm not sure...how many others have this issue? I do not know...

You shouldn't have to do that bro---- while I try to remember to turn off my fogs --- I often forget and my spyder starts fine with HID's on all 4 front lights.... even with my hot grips left on too.....

 

[Justin]

You shouldn't have to do that bro---- while I try to remember to turn off my fogs --- I often forget and my spyder starts fine with HID's on all 4 front lights.... even with my hot grips left on too.....

x2

You definitely have something wrong with the ballasts.