• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Here's my Bluetooth dongle harness

iPhones require an intelligent charger. I do not think Android phones do but I could be wrong. My Android tablets can use straight 12V non-smart charger.

But that is the point. They are using a micro USB connector yet 12V is coming out of it so you have to be careful trying to use it on something else. USB spec is 5V!

Yes many recent devices can handle both. My helmet cam for instance will run (record and work) off 12V but not charge. It requires 5V to charge which seems reversed to me but that's what the manual also says.

The diodes in the 12V Sena plug are for noise but in the process they drop the voltage 1V to 11V instead of 12V (Actually 11.7 from 12.7). I am not getting any noise in my SM10 but it is hooked to the radio and in the trunk not the frunk. However I have tried it power by the trunk cig lighter using the Sena supplied cord and got no noise.
Many have complained of disconnect issues and noise issues when mounted in the frunk. I would move it to the trunk myself.

Bob

I took my cigarette charger apart and found the same thing as you inside of it. It would not take much to install that little circuit board with the "filters" on it inline on the pos (+) wire to be safe and keep out unwanted electrical noise. The only down side is you will loose a charger but you should still have one with your headset anyway. I would like to know if the BRP harness has some type of circuitry built into their harness somehow? I might give this a shot....
 
I took my cigarette charger apart and found the same thing as you inside of it. It would not take much to install that little circuit board with the "filters" on it inline on the pos (+) wire to be safe and keep out unwanted electrical noise. The only down side is you will loose a charger but you should still have one with your headset anyway. I would like to know if the BRP harness has some type of circuitry built into their harness somehow? I might give this a shot....

I was doing a search on the Sena Site and I found a reference to charging voltage for the Sena SMH10 headset. I think the same would apply because they use the same chargers. In summary input voltage is 5V to 14V.

http://support.senabluetooth.com/entries/20454271-How-to-charge-SMH10-
 
I took my cigarette charger apart and found the same thing as you inside of it. It would not take much to install that little circuit board with the "filters" on it inline on the pos (+) wire to be safe and keep out unwanted electrical noise. The only down side is you will loose a charger but you should still have one with your headset anyway. I would like to know if the BRP harness has some type of circuitry built into their harness somehow? I might give this a shot....

There is nothing in the BRP BT harness but wires. Again this was heavily discussed with pictures supplied in this thread:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...dding-BRP-Bluetooth-Dongle-Questions-Answered

So no worries about that. Again my bet is there are noise filters in the radio that do pretty much the same thing that is in the Sena 12 cig plug! Thus no noise when hooked to the radio for power.

So if you have an RT and want power from your trunk cig plug instead of from the radio to the Sena, use the Sena 12V plug there. Otherwise wire power from the radio as my DIY cable shows. You will be all good then! 3 wheel addict, your cable has power from the radio so your done buddy... Hook it up and enjoy! This is 100% like the BRP cable!

For people with a RS or ST, you probably should take the board out of the Sena plug and use it to wire to 12V. That is if you have a noise issue. If you don't have a noise issue then your done.

Finally as I said. Keep the harness away from the engine and cluster! Even the BRP harness does not appear to be shielded so runing it forward "may" give you engine noise. A lot of people have complained of noise even when the BRP cable is run to the Frunk.

Bob
 
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FYI, if you are getting engine noise no matter where you have the unit mounted and cable run, remember bad spark plug wires can easily be the cause! As we have all seen reported the stock spark plug wires "can" have issues.

Bob
 
I got a good deal on the BRP dongle with harness but found like you said their lighter adaptor wouldn't charge my phone gave a message about volts being incorrect. The USB dialogue is because the dongle powers from micro or is it mini USB?
Since their harness plugs in the main harness by the radio didn't need the lighter adaptor. But I get considerable noise even before starting it up, mines mounted in the Frunk like the instructions suggest, so I think noise is from elects around the engine, but not certain. Anyone figured out how to reduce the noise on a BRP dongle?


Living the dream while I still can!
I have the factory BRP Dongle setup and it is installed in the trunk, not the frunk and I have never had any electrical noise. Don't know if it makes a difference where I installed it. Didn't make since to put it in the frunk. The rest of my electronics were in the trunk.
 
Looks good.
I will have to sit down and make mine tonight. IT will have to be a little different, because I have an ST it will have to be longer. I want mine powered up all the time so I will have a separate power cord.

Be careful with this option. Forget to turn it off and you will end up with a dead battery. I install a USB power outlet and hooked to always on 12volt and it will take my battery down in about 2 to 3 days to where the bike won't start. I'm adding a relay circuit that shuts it down when the Spyder is turned off.
 
Be careful with this option. Forget to turn it off and you will end up with a dead battery. I install a USB power outlet and hooked to always on 12volt and it will take my battery down in about 2 to 3 days to where the bike won't start. I'm adding a relay circuit that shuts it down when the Spyder is turned off.

There is something wrong with yours. My intent is to never to turn the unit off. My helmet headset is plugged into my always on usb outlet when it is at home and the battery will last 3 weeks before it is touch and go to start. So with two devices drawing power I would expect the battery to last at least a week.
 
I got a good deal on the BRP dongle with harness but found like you said their lighter adaptor wouldn't charge my phone gave a message about volts being incorrect. The USB dialogue is because the dongle powers from micro or is it mini USB?
Since their harness plugs in the main harness by the radio didn't need the lighter adaptor. But I get considerable noise even before starting it up, mines mounted in the Frunk like the instructions suggest, so I think noise is from elects around the engine, but not certain. Anyone figured out how to reduce the noise on a BRP dongle?

Yes. Toss the BRP harness in the trash. Power the dongle from the always on 12v accessory port using the power cable SENA provides. Tie the sound input to the rear speaker leads using a passive type power reduction adaptor. The dongle links with the head set every time it is turned on and the sound is great, the noise is gone. The BRP harness and radio output combo is junk. Just a very poor implementation.
 
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Yes. Toss the BRP harness in the trash. Power the dongle from the always on 12v accessory port using the power cable SENA provides. Tie the sound input to the rear speaker leads using a passive type power reduction adaptor. The dongle links with the head set every time it is turned on and the sound is great, the noise is gone. The BRP harness and radio output combo is junk. Just a very poor implementation.

Well not sure I fully agree with it being junk. I just agree mounting it in the Frunk is the problem. I am having no issues with mine mounted in the trunk.

The problem with hooking it to the speakers is the speakers have to be on and BT has a delay so you wind up hearing an echo / delay.

Bob
 
Passing that wiring from the radio to the front trunk (frunk) is causing the problems, routing wires past the engine with spark ignition and a whole bunch of other electrical goodies. BRP mounts the dongle right next to the fuse block and right behind that is a big electric motor for the DPS.
 
Well not sure I fully agree with it being junk. I just agree mounting it in the Frunk is the problem. I am having no issues with mine mounted in the trunk.

The problem with hooking it to the speakers is the speakers have to be on and BT has a delay so you wind up hearing an echo / delay.

Bob

Use the fader to control speakers vs Bluetooth. No echo.

I tried moving the dongle to the trunk (where it still is) and while the noise was less, it was still very much there. Tried swapping radios from my wife's spyder and same problem. Its something in the way the radio or BRP harness is implemented that picks up the noise on the very low level signal going to the dongle. Finally gave up on the BRP harness and returned it and bought a straight SM-10 module connected as stated above and it works perfectly. This problem has come up here on SL several times so its not just something wrong with my bike. Its a design issue. There may be a better way to solve it, have not found it.
 
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