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Help with tire pressure

Thanks, Mike. Makes sense to me. :thumbup: As I said in an earlier post above, Derrick Netzley recommended 20 psi for my rear tire when he installed the Yoko s-Drive. I'll probably take it from 24 down to 22 for a while and see what that feels like and how it wears.

I run my original OEM front Kenda's at 17, which seems to be about right for them. Those things have well over 12,000 miles on them, still going strong, and are wearing evenly. But I'm thinking maybe around 13-14 psi when I eventually put automobile tires on the front of my 998 RT. What do you think? :dontknow:
 
PSI & TIRES

Thanks, Mike. Makes sense to me. :thumbup: As I said in an earlier post above, Derrick Netzley recommended 20 psi for my rear tire when he installed the Yoko s-Drive. I'll probably take it from 24 down to 22 for a while and see what that feels like and how it wears.

I run my original OEM front Kenda's at 17, which seems to be about right for them. Those things have well over 12,000 miles on them, still going strong, and are wearing evenly. But I'm thinking maybe around 13-14 psi when I eventually put automobile tires on the front of my 998 RT. What do you think? :dontknow:
#1. Wear - I don't think the PSI you ride at is going to make much difference either way as long as it's reasonable ( ie. not 25 % over or under ) ..... #2. the thing that will wear out any tire ( especially Kenda's ) is bad alignment. #3. For you with any car tire on the front ...try 16 psi ....... I just put Altimax 175/65-15's on my 2014 RT and initially had 17.5psi in them ...... in NC in the twistie's I thought I was feeling a little " roll-under " ( we were cranking it ). So I bumped up to 21psi and it went away !!! ... I found the casing size on the Altimax to be unusually large for a 65 aspect tire ... So except for EXTREME RIDING I will lower the psi to 17.5 ( because of the higher sidewall ) .........Mike :thumbup:
 
After experimenting on wet and dry all summer, with Kumho KH16 (175/55R15)in the front, and Kumho AST (225/50R15)I. settled down to 16.5 lbs front left, 17 lbs front right and 26 lbs in the rear.
Why the different pressures, right vs. left? Of course, 1/2 psi is almost nothing, but still I'm wondering.

I'm running 18 psi in my front Kendas. The wear appears to be quite uniform. I'm running about 23 in my rear General Altimax.
 
1/2 lbs for right side.....

Why the different pressures, right vs. left? Of course, 1/2 psi is almost nothing, but still I'm wondering.

I'm running 18 psi in my front Kendas. The wear appears to be quite uniform. I'm running about 23 in my rear General Altimax.

It is supposed to compensate for the weight shift to the right with the domed
roads..... does it, or does it matter..... who knows.....
 
Try to keep the right a smidge higher as well.

It is supposed to compensate for the weight shift to the right with the domed
roads..... does it, or does it matter..... who knows.....

As the outside tire on crowned roads just feels right to me! Should keep the Spyder a little "flatter" on the corners?
 
Thanks, Mike. Makes sense to me. :thumbup: As I said in an earlier post above, Derrick Netzley recommended 20 psi for my rear tire when he installed the Yoko s-Drive. I'll probably take it from 24 down to 22 for a while and see what that feels like and how it wears.

I ran my Yoko at 28 for 8,000 miles and it has a little more wear in the middle. I dropped it down to 22 and it was fine, have gone down to 20 now but haven't ridden it yet.
 
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I would caution against running different tire pressures for each side up front...
Nanny doesn't like it when there's more than a half-pound difference between the tires, and you're right at the hairy ragged edge of that margin. nojoke

This isn't NASCAR; stagger shouldn't enter into the process...
 
PSI FOR CAR TIRES ON ANY SPYDER

I ran mine at 28 for 8,000 miles and it has a little more wear in the middle. I dropped it down to 22 and it was fine, have gone down to 20 now but haven't ridden it yet.
........I know I didn't say it specifically ..... but My comments were directed almost entirely towards CAR tires ( except for the alignment thing ) ..... It's a well known FACT that with Kenda tires on the REAR - - PSI has no effect 20lb to 34lb it makes no difference in the wear factor...... The tire is marginal with little strength ..... Use one at your own Peril ......jmho.....Mike :thumbup:
 
I agree that the pressure should be close and want one of JT's equalizer hoses

I would caution against running different tire pressures for each side up front...
Nanny doesn't like it when there's more than a half-pound difference between the tires, and you're right at the hairy ragged edge of that margin. nojoke

This isn't NASCAR; stagger shouldn't enter into the process...

I am not sure that the FOBO gauges can be accurate enough to be counted on to keep the fronts at even pressures. I think nanny allows quite a bit of freedom, but don't know the "programmed" allowances or have BUDS to see if error messages are being generated. I know that I rode back Sunday 360 miles with my plug repaired front Kenda tire 3 psi higher than the other without nanny,s dash warning flashing, but now that I'm home have them balanced pretty close according to FOBO. These readings are higher than what my wifes bikes Kumhos run, but still running the OEM Kendas til the Kumho Solus' get here.DSCN1580.jpg

http://spyderstore.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=54
 
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TIRE PRESSURE DIFFERENCES

I would caution against running different tire pressures for each side up front...
Nanny doesn't like it when there's more than a half-pound difference between the tires, and you're right at the hairy ragged edge of that margin. nojoke

This isn't NASCAR; stagger shouldn't enter into the process...
Bob, where or who gave you this info ???? ..... I accidently drove around with my rear Michelin tire at 8 lbs and the " NANNY " didn't tell me about it !!!! :banghead: ..... and I know my fronts haven't always been EXACTLY the same.................. Mike :thumbup:
 
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You weren't reading any better than me... :D
I said that the front tires should be kept within a half-pound of each other...

But here's where I read it...

TIRE
S
Type (use only tires Front KR31 165/55R15
recommended by BRP) Rear KR21 225/50R15
Front
Nominal.: 138 kPa (20 PSI)
Min.: 118 kPa (17 PSI)
Max.: 158 kPa (23 PSI)
Nominal.: 193 kPa (28 PSI)
Min.: 179 kPa (26 PSI)
Max.: 207 kPa (30 PSI)
Pressure
Rear
NOTE:
The pressure difference between the left andright side tire should not exceed 3.4 kPa (.5 PSI).

Read your manual: it's in the technical specifications section. (I think that it starts on page 160...)
 
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Oh My- look where my pressures are now

:yikes: I don't know if my Overly Compulsive, Doubting nature can take this change. May be time to get JT's balance tube:shocked:DSCN1585.jpg

Even the FOBO's tend to vary with time and temp, although the bike has been sitting without me touching the valves...hmmm. Oh well, I know they have air in them, and the weather is nice, so... time to RYDE!!
 
If you park your Spyder long enough with only one tire sitting in the sun, then sure, you're gonna get some temperature difference between front tires & therefore you'll have a pressure difference too, altho it shouldn't be more than 1-2 psi unless you live somewhere really hot - but the critical thing is that after they've been warmed up thru ryding/use, they end up within that 1/2 a psi or so!! ;)

You should aim for a 4-6psi pressure increase after an hour or so's ryding anyway!! If your tire pressures aren't set too high to start with, it should only take about 10-15 mins of 'normal' riding to get them up to operating temps!! If they start out more than about 5-6 psi too high when cold, it's likely your tire pressures won't change much at all in that short a time ryding, & it might take a loooong ryde to really get the tread up to 'optimal' operating temps, if you can ever do that on anything but a narrow strip down the middle of the tread!! :shocked:

An 'infrared' remote temp gauge should show an even tread temperature right across the face of the bit of tread that hits the ground (measure at least 3 spots across the face immediately on stopping) - if it's got clear high temperature strips of tread, your tire pressures are incorrect & your tires will probably wear out the hot bits faster than anything else! Rough guide - Outside edges the hottest, pressure too low; Middle of the tread the hottest, pressures too high. :thumbup:
 
nitrogen!

Then you get a whole new set of numbers.
:roflblack: If anyone gives a rats arse, with nitrogen on my RS-S, 16 PSI FRONT and 24 psi REAR. Single up and some times trailer. Type on ya'll...
:cheers:
 
Scared to even ask...

My wife and I have been riding our Spyders (RT 2010 & 2011) for 5-6 years with the front tire pressure at about 18@. She went to fill hers up and correctly stated that the sidewall says a Max pressure of 30psi!!!!???? I looked and it says that on both our Spyders. Mine has new fronts (from BRP) and hers are still OEM. I got about 22000 miles on my first set, but

I don't want to run under-inflated. What's the answer?
 
I use BRP's recommended thats on the bike and add about 4. Say 18 front, I put about 21,22. 19k on the front so far and rear, well went to Vee and have 10K and looking good. about 28 in rear.
 
^^ "A few on here see the need to be a di#k for no reason."

I blame cabin fever. Spring can't come soon enough for our northern-based brethren.

And FWIW, I have Kumho Solus KH16's on the front, running at 18 psi, and a General Altimax RT43 on the rear, running at 24 psi. One-up riding only. No problems.
 
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