• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Help - rear hub spacer.....

ataDude

Mod Maniac
.... Scotty or someone familiar with the rear drive components.

After an all-afternoon job of removing black powder coating from all of the wrong places, I finally got all four bearings, seals and large nut in place ... all new. I even broke a handle on the drill press when I used it to "press" the first bearing in... probably will never get the chuck out, again :D .

Never fear, though... a very large socket (that matched the outer bearing race) and a rubber mallet, along with a short piece of 2"x4" and quick work before the bearings "defrosted", saved the day. BTW, the bearings were in the freezer for about 30 hours before installation.
However, I forgot to install #17 in the below schematic
surprised-023.gif
.

What does #17 really do? I believe (hope) that it's just a redundant-to-the-hub casing for the axle to run in... not really a spacer as noted on the parts description. If you've ever taken the rear wheel off yourself, you'll notice that it is a little loose in the hub. It seems to float between the bearing pressed in from the left (hub) and the bearing pressed in from the right side (wheel). The wheel side actually has a large nut (approx 36mm) screwed in the wheel from the drive belt side to hold the bearing firmly in place against the wheel.

Long story short, I can't easily (or even at all) remove the hub (#14) after bolting it in place without ruining that bearing... I removed the powder coating from only the hub rim, and not the wheel. It's pressed (by bolting together) in there pretty darn good. And yes, yes, yes... I removed the bolts before trying removal. :D

Given that, if the "spacer" is really needed, I'm going to have to pull one of the bearings and probably ruin it. And, I don't have spares.

And, by golly, I had the schematic setting on the garage floor right by me all afternoon. Real men don't need instructions, right? :dontknow: :lecturef_smilie:

BTW, all of the bolts, nuts, bearings (all USA origin), seals, spacers, giant c-clip and giant nut (everything except the brake rotor) set me back $193... after discount. It was an expensive way to complete the all black/yellow design. The already-black-powder-coated wheel, hub and sprocket was $575 shipped (used)... if you're thinking of doing this yourself. There is a special four-point tool needed for the giant nut... but I made a two-point one myself by grinding a 3/4" open end wrench down to size on the sides.

HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP!

ADVIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICE?

picture.php
 
Last edited:
I have never had the rear hub apart, so you may have to ask Lamont to comment on this one. I will say that on any other motorcycle I know of, the spacer is essential to keep the bearings in the proper place and to allow you to torque the axle nuts/bolts. I would worry myself sick if I left it out. There usually aren't any useless parts on a motorcycle hub.
 
I replaced my tire monday,so I just had mine apart.Have you tried to unbolt #14.the nuts behind #23-26 and insert your now extra part back in througn the #14.I have not tried it but it might work.I think your #17 will ride on the inner race of your new bearings on the other sides of
28 and 29.
 
Last edited:
That's the crush tube and you have to have that in there to have continuity throughout the hub. That makes both bearings act as one. Trust me, very bad things will happen without it.
 
While my moto mech time was only about a year, I had seen many home induced damage from at home wrenching. The cast rims of newer machines were the biggest problems because of the lightening of the rims as technology increased. Either the outer bead edge was tool chipped/cracked off or the bearing shoulder was popped off. Aside from other purposes of install, that inner spacer and torque specs kept the bearings seated in within dimension. The shoulders may crack and one or both bearings could float to the center and bam... your rims drops to an angle and into the swing arm.
 
.
OK... you all have convinced me. I'll give it one more try to get the hub back off before I take it to the dealer Monday for a bearing-ectomy. :D I have to go there anyway to have the tire installed on the wheel.
.
 
Last edited:
I replaced my tire monday,so I just had mine apart.Have you tried to unbolt #14.the nuts behind #23-26 and insert your now extra part back in througn the #14.I have not tried it but it might work.I think your #17 will ride on the inner race of your new bearings on the other sides of 28 and 29.

.
Thanks, but already tried that... see below:

"... Long story short, I can't easily (or even at all) remove the hub (#14) after bolting it in place without ruining that bearing... I removed the powder coating from only the hub rim, and not the wheel. It's pressed (by bolting together) in there pretty darn good. And yes, yes, yes... I removed the bolts before trying removal... "

My one last shot will be to insert a 3/4" steel rod from the drive side of the wheel and try to "beat" the hub back off from the inside. I hope the hub casting is strong enough for that punishment. Worst case... I will ruin the hub and have to take the stock silver one off and paint it.

Wish me luck. :dontknow:
.
 
Last edited:
While my moto mech time was only about a year, I had seen many home induced damage from at home wrenching...

.
I agree, Jim. I'm not exactly a novice at this stuff... just stupid, sometimes. :yikes: This job is not one which I would recommend to 99% of the folks out there.

How's the recovery coming along?

.
 
Last edited:
It's not a swipe at your intelligence, I just don't want us hanging out in wheel chairs together.
My recovery has been exceeding Dr.'s prognosis to the point some have been "shocked". The knee seems to be on a program that lasts until february. I'm still waiting for the repairs to the left hand, the blood thinners delayed that a few month. To make things worse, the local franchise had called and left a message that Spyder RT and RSS will soon be in stock. Call us to set up a demo if interested.

.
I agree, Jim. I'm not exactly a novice at this stuff... just stupid, sometimes. :yikes: This job is not one which I would recommend to 99.9% of the folks out there.

How's the recovery coming along?

.
 
Last edited:
if you used a bearing puller with a slide hammer setup it should come out.I use one rebuilding transmissions and have had good luck not damaging the bearing.I think some auto part stores will let you rent one for free with a deposit.
 
Thanks everyone....

.
... for the advice. Spacer #17 is in its new home after about two hours. :thumbup:

I hammered the hub off from the inside using a round 1/2" steel rod 12" long, and a 5 pound hammer. I inserted the rod through the drive side bearing and used the 1" deep brake rotor bolt bosses as targets. I also took care to isolate the rod from the bearing through which I was hammering. When complete, I chased the brake rotor bolt threads with an appropriate tap.

It took about 20 rotating blows to separate the hub from the wheel... it was on there. I also used a air die grinder with a 2" Scotch-Brite pad to remove the offending powder coating in the wheel while I was at it. I won't have that problem again.

BTW... I forgot to mention that I would not have done all of this stuff myself except for the inferior powder coating job. It would have cost a fortune at the dealer ($95/hour) to remove/polish all of that stuff off of the inappropriate places. :yikes:
.
 
Last edited:
... My recovery has been exceeding Dr.'s prognosis to the point some have been "shocked"...
.
Congrats! Keep up the good (hard) work! Been there, done that... was told in 1987 by my orthopedic surgeon that I would never walk again. What a morale builder that guy was!

.
 
.
Congrats! Keep up the good (hard) work! Been there, done that... was told in 1987 by my orthopedic surgeon that I would never walk again. What a morale builder that guy was!

.
Yes, I'm sure the first class they take in med school is Pessimism 101.
 
Yes, I'm sure the first class they take in med school is Pessimism 101.

Yeah, I learned pretty quick that Dr's don't have a clue about what what is ACTUALLY possible to do. When they say you can't do something it just means you have to figure out HOW you CAN!
 
.
Congrats! Keep up the good (hard) work! Been there, done that... was told in 1987 by my orthopedic surgeon that I would never walk again. What a morale builder that guy was!

.

Yes, I'm sure the first class they take in med school is Pessimism 101.

Yeah, I learned pretty quick that Dr's don't have a clue about what what is ACTUALLY possible to do. When they say you can't do something it just means you have to figure out HOW you CAN!

+4 This coming Sunday, our pastor is giving a message entitled 2% which is the chance that the doctors gave him to live (and virtually guaranteed he would have significant brain damage if he did survive) just one month ago (Sept. 10th) after he was in a serious accident on his SeaDoo. He told me yesterday that he feels he is at 80 - 85% of full recovery, well on his way to being 100% recovered.
 
+4 This coming Sunday, our pastor is giving a message entitled 2% which is the chance that the doctors gave him to live (and virtually guaranteed he would have significant brain damage if he did survive) just one month ago (Sept. 10th) after he was in a serious accident on his SeaDoo. He told me yesterday that he feels he is at 80 - 85% of full recovery, well on his way to being 100% recovered.


Everyone, Just remember. Doctors are only people who are "practicing Medicine".
 
How about a source and list of parts for your bearning job??

Thanks..

Hey, Forrest. I just used the BRP Parts Online link on the home page here, got all of my part numbers and descriptions, and then called it in to my dealer.

I also used the parts diagram as a map on what went where... except for the forgotten spacer, of course. :gaah:
.
 
Link

Hey, Forrest. I just used the BRP Parts Online link on the home page here, got all of my part numbers and descriptions, and then called it in to my dealer.

I also used the parts diagram as a map on what went where... except for the forgotten spacer, of course. :gaah:
.

Which link is that and where is it?:dontknow: Guess I didn't know there was such a link:opps:

Michael:doorag:
 
Which link is that and where is it?:dontknow: Guess I didn't know there was such a link:opps:

Michael:doorag:

.
Click on "Home" above. Then, in the right-hand column, almost at the bottom, there is a section called "Spyder Web". It's the sixth one down out of eight links.

.
 
Back
Top