• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

HELP...how to charge battery on 2014 RT Ltd?

Mr. White

New member
Help. On my 2011 RT-S I just plugged the battery tender in the trunk outlet and no problem. Got a 2014 RT-Ltd yesterday and plugged my Battery Tender in the trunk outlet, just as I did on my 2011....WRONG... when I went to the barn this morning, the dash lights were on (duh) and the battery was dead, just clicked... I read the manual and opened the frunk, took away the lining and ??? The book says unscrew two screws and hook up charger....

I could not find the screws the book speaks of...I see two black "covers" but can't figure how to get them off...IF that is what the manual talks about. I don't want to screw up Mr. Cognec and it is Sunday and my dealer won't open until Tuesday.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Thanks, Doc. You have done me a good deed. I saw that bottom battery cover, but in my barn, I could not see it well. I will take my flash light to it and also change the fuse....do those fuse covers just snap off?? And thanks again for your great help.

George Lewis, Boerne, TX
 
Last edited:
the 2014 is different from the earlier years in that we now have an alternator, you should not need a battery tender or anything unless you intend to put it up for a season.

Cruzr Joe
 
as posted in another post.

There have been a lot of questions on battery maintenance lately so i thought i would throw my two cents in.

1 - Because the 14s and 15s have an alternator, a battery tender is not necessary for normal year round riding. :thumbup:

2 - If you just have to have a battery tender, here is a simple solution for you (see photo below) :chat:



in the front trunk (aka the frunk), directly below and centered between the right and left fuse boxes you will find two

T30 screws, if you remove them, the cover will come off to expose your battery.

you can add a battery tender plug to the battery and let the small connector come out of the rubber plug (boot) just below the left fuse box.

Now you just need to open your frunk (unzip the liner if you have one) and plug in your battery tender.

Hope this helps.

Cruzr Joe
 
Is the liner fully unzipped? The two rectangular covers are the right and left fuse boxes. Shin a light into the trunk. About 10 inches down you should see the top of 2 Torx screws. Unscrew the screws and remove. Remove the cover and you are at the battery. If you want to use the outlet in the rear trunk to charge the battery you have to move the fuse located in the F6 position (Right Fuse Box) to the F7 position as per your owners manual. F7 is direct to battery.

Another option is to remove the left pop off cover (old oil check cover). Pull back the red rubber cover on the big red wire on the alternator and connect the positive clamp of your battery charger to the terminal. Connect the neg lead of the charger to the bolt on the left front corner of the gas tank.

I would be guided by what this man says.
 
Thanks to all for your help. As I did with my 2011, I had plugged my battery tender into the outlet in the trunk to charge my new battery to 100% as most are 80% or so when you get them. However, due to the fuse difference, I drew the battery down and wondered why....I had forgotten about reading where you must change the fuse to charge from the trunk....Doc reminded me. As Doc said, get a flashlight to see the panel with the torx screws.....I did and all is well....battery is receiving a charge while I write this. I have a habit of charging all new batteries 24 hours when I get them....it extends their life or at least I think so....so I do it.

Thanks again Doc....fuse is changed, battery is charging and Mr. Cognac is doing fine....pics later.
 
Now I'm confused. I have a 2014 RTS. In the right hand fuse box, I have a 15 amp fuse in slot 6 and a 10 amp in slot 7. The manual says both slots are rated for 5 amps. Do I simply swap the fuses in 6 and 7, or move 6 to 7 and not replace a fuse in slot 7, or do I need to use one of the spare 5 amps.
Yes, I'm over thinking this, and yes, I'm a chicken when it comes to electricity.
 
I believe in using a batty tender even though the 2014's have an alternator. I sold a bike with a 15 year old battery on it and it still cranked like a top when I sold it. My wife has a Mustang she very seldom drives and the battery was put on in 2001, we also have two 09 model bikes with oem batteries and our lawn mower has an 8 year old battery all have battery tenders on them when not in use and all start without a hitch any time I turn the key.
 
I believe in using a batty tender even though the 2014's have an alternator. I sold a bike with a 15 year old battery on it and it still cranked like a top when I sold it. My wife has a Mustang she very seldom drives and the battery was put on in 2001, we also have two 09 model bikes with oem batteries and our lawn mower has an 8 year old battery all have battery tenders on them when not in use and all start without a hitch any time I turn the key.

:agree: The alternator is better when the spyder is running to provide more current to keep up with current demand when the spyder is being ridden. BRP saw that riders were plugging in all kinds of accessories that draw lots of power especially the heated clothing that riders are using and the 998 's charging system was having a hard time with keeping up to power demand. The new alternator attached to the new motor cured this problem. The problem I see is that when the spyder is not running and the alternator is making power the battery cannot keep up to demand for power and will go dead. So this why I still believe you need to keep your spyder plugged into your battery tender when the spyder is not being used. You are still killing your battery by not plugging your spyder into a battery tender or maintainer. JMHO:thumbup:
 
Left, Right, Right, Left

When I open the frunk liner on my 2014 RT-S there are little labels by the black boxes containing the fuses. They say "Right Fuse Box" and "Left Fuse Box," respectively. I only get confused when I look at the Spyder head on.:yikes:
 
:D We'll need to see a new "Family Portrait"... :2thumbs:

Bob, another problem has come up. I went into the barn and told Punkin' and Mr. Cognic that we needed a family photo. Punkin', who is getting older said he wanted to be in front and Mr. C could park back and to the left of him. Mr. C said he was a new member and many pics have been taken of Punkin' and that he should be in front. Bob, I, too, am getting older and can't stand this bickering...so I left. As I closed the barn door, I heard Punkin' say "In fact you look like a banana spider, not a BRP Spyder!" Pics coming when I cool these two down.

:spyder2:
 
When I open the frunk liner on my 2014 RT-S there are little labels by the black boxes containing the fuses. They say "Right Fuse Box" and "Left Fuse Box," respectively. I only get confused when I look at the Spyder head on.:yikes:

Really like your signature :yes::bowdown::ohyea:
 
I have a '14 and use a tender in the power (cig) outlet in the trunk, just as I did on my '10. I just moved the fuse up front and plugged it in.
 
Last edited:
I have a '14 and use a tender in the power (cig) outlet in the trunk, just I did on my '10. I just moved the fuse up front and plugged it in.

Now I know...I drained my battery as I did not read page 140, ha ha...Fuse changed, all is well. Really like my '14. Thanks.
 
Back
Top