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Help - Brake issue - caliper semi-closed

jwulf74

New member
Hi,

So my wife's RT had an issue with the brake lights staying on when she parks. If you pick up on the pedal it goes off, so no problem I figure. I just need to adjust the arm/bar that links the pedal and brake cylinder. Well, I have it all torn apart and adjusted the bar so it just touches the cylinder like it should thus keep the lights off and the brakes not activated.

I like to verify that the brakes aren't activated due to me misadjusting the bar so I lift it up and give the front wheels a spin. The right wheel spins with just a slight tick on the brake pad. The left though... well that won't spin freely. I can rotate it and inertia will carry it for just a bit but not even really a full revolution. Even if I bar the bar all the way off and pull back on the cylinder boot, it still won't spin freely.

Any idea what would cause that? Her brake fluid was pretty clear still and it didn't seem low, but could low fluid cause something like that? :dontknow: We are planning on heading out for the weekend, but with a brake issue, that won't be doable...

Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Hi,

So my wife's RT had an issue with the brake lights staying on when she parks. If you pick up on the pedal it goes off, so no problem I figure. I just need to adjust the arm/bar that links the pedal and brake cylinder. Well, I have it all torn apart and adjusted the bar so it just touches the cylinder like it should thus keep the lights off and the brakes not activated.

I like to verify that the brakes aren't activated due to me misadjusting the bar so I lift it up and give the front wheels a spin. The right wheel spins with just a slight tick on the brake pad. The left though... well that won't spin freely. I can rotate it and inertia will carry it for just a bit but not even really a full revolution. Even if I bar the bar all the way off and pull back on the cylinder boot, it still won't spin freely.

Any idea what would cause that? Her brake fluid was pretty clear still and it didn't seem low, but could low fluid cause something like that? :dontknow: We are planning on heading out for the weekend, but with a brake issue, that won't be doable...

Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks.

i have a 2008 GS that had that problem on the right. Side, I change the r/ brake caliber.
made a big different on braking, I did have a very soft pedal and that took care of it.
 
From ALLDATA:

A piston seal performs a two-fold function; it seals the piston so hydraulic pressure can apply the brakes, and it helps retract the piston when the brakes are released. As the piston is pushed out by the brake fluid, a square-cut seal twists slightly. This helps pull the piston back when the pressure is released, allowing pads to move away from the rotor more easily for reduced brake drag and improved pad wear and fuel economy.
Heat ages the seal. Over time, it loses elasticity and becomes brittle. This reduces its ability to deform and pull the piston back.
A neglected caliper can become a dragging caliper, causing increased pad wear, fuel consumption, and possibly a steering pull.

sounds like a caliper replacement is in order, I highly doubt brp has a rebuild kit available.
 
Little checking..!!

pistons hang up if parked for time or other reasons. If you have a dead blow hammer or plastic hammer tap on the caliper while rotating the tire and see if it frees up. If so you could spray a bit of WD-40 where the pistons retract. Can also be the pads hung up on the pins. Check while ryding if you have drag. Relax your grip and see if she pulls in that direction. Don't know your mileage so hard to say if it is a problem but you could run by a dealer to confirm...:dontknow: My rear brakes do that epecially if I change directions (forward to backwards.)
 
Thanks. I will try the mallet trick and see if that helps. Otherwise, I will get it in to the dealer... weekend is almost here...
 
I'd siphon out fluid in master cylinder then compress calipers one at a time siphoning more out of master until all 3 are compressed so as to get most fluid out as possible then after ensuring pistons or sliders move free refill master then slowly pump brakes till master needs refilled until solid pedal is felt.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
 
another thought

The piston can stick if there is a build up of brake dust. If this happens it is self reinforcing causing even more dust because of the stuck piston. Be sure to clean the caliper well, removing as much dust as possible. That could solve your issue of the sticking piston in and of itself. Be sure to check for excessive pad wear on that side. Hopefully the stuck piston did not cause enough heat to warp the rotor. Have your dealer check for sure if you don't have the right dial gauge to check yourself. Good luck :thumbup:
 
Hi, thanks everyone for the tips. I did have the dealer check it out today and they said that it is within normal parameters. The rotor looks good and the pads are getting worn evenly and will probably need to be replaced after this season. it is just weird though that her left one rubs the pad and the right just ticks it and both of mine spin freely with no noise.

I think I will try cleaning it all really well after we get back this weekend and see if that helps, even though they said it was normal...

Thanks.
 
brakes sticking

had a problem with my 2012 rt rear brake was dragging had to pull caliper off and clean the bolt sliders has been fine now for 4500 miles
 
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