HELP!!! Bad thermostat, where is it, how hard to change? 2012 RS-S

[jtpollock]

OK last summer at the Owners event I had the guys at the BRP tent look at me 2012 RS-S SE5 for an overheating problem they told me they could not find anything. Rode the rest of the weekend and had no problems in fact I rode the rest of the summer. I even rode the BIG Three Pikes Peak, MT Evans and Trail Ridge Road all in one day no problems. Sunday my wife and I took a short ride for Lunch 50 miles then back dropped My wife off went over to get gas as soon as I turned the Spyder off it spit about a pint of coolant on the drive and when I got home it did it again, had a 60 mile ride on Monday and it did it again. Sorry for the long winded explanation. The long and short is this a bad thermostat if so where is it and how hard is it to change...:dontknow:. I have riden 17 times this year. jtpollock ray:

 

[billybovine]

You did not mention if the display showed a overheating condition? If it did not I will assume it is not overheating. If coolant is coming out of the vent tube. Then the first thing I would check is that the cap is in the second detent position.

 

[Cruzr Joe]

when he said second detent position he was saying to be sure that the cap is on tightly, it will go on and click once and then click a second time and that is when it is tight. If that is not the problem, i would suggest that you let your dealer check it, i can't help with the thermostat because that is beyond my pay grade.


Cruzr Joe

 

[OJ UK]

when he said second detent position he was saying to be sure that the cap is on tightly, it will go on and click once and then click a second time and that is when it is tight. If that is not the problem, i would suggest that you let your dealer check it, i can't help with the thermostat because that is beyond my pay grade.


Cruzr Joe

They pay you??!!:bowdown::2thumbs::joke:

 

[Cruzr Joe]

They pay you??!!:bowdown::2thumbs::joke:

Yes they pay me, weakly (Not weekly) :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

Cruzr Joe

 

[jtpollock]

Thanks! the cap was put on by the tech from BRP so I think it was put on correctly :dontknow: but these days you never know. As far as the dash, I was reading only 5 bars, on most hot days it runs as high as 7, so no real indication of overheating. :dontknow: I found from the dealer that the thermostat housing and thermostat are the same thing and cost around 70 bucks! If I can find it, I can change it.

 

[Chupaca]

There are three main leak points, no make that four...

1. Radiator cap not on properly

2. Radiator hose clamp not tight (there is only one adjustable clamp on these machines and they put it on the radiator.:roflblack

3. Resevoir tank cracked

4. Water pump seal

The most common are the first two. You might also check that it is not overfilled. Mine runs at five bars in the heat or traffic... :thumbup:

 

[jtpollock]

There are three main leak points, no make that four...

1. Radiator cap not on properly

2. Radiator hose clamp not tight (there is only one adjustable clamp on these machines and they put it on the radiator.:roflblack

3. Resevoir tank cracked

4. Water pump seal

The most common are the first two. You might also check that it is not overfilled. Mine runs at five bars in the heat or traffic...:thumbup:

This is not a leak, it's a full-blown tank overflow! No noticeable steam, but a lot of antifreeze. Thanks for the input. :thumbup: jtpollock

 

[DrewNJ]

To answer your question, the thermostat is on the right side. Right next to your right foot directly behind the radiator/fan. Its a black plastic "top" shaped assembly with 3 radiator hoses attached to it. About the size of a small fist.
You will need to pull all the body panels on the right including the lower black panel by the foot peg.

 

[Netminder]

The boys pretty will covered it above. They changed the water pump seal on mine the first year under warranty, but it was mostly drips on the garage floor not as much as you are seeing. #1 or #2 seem more likely the cause. Hope you get it figured out and keep us posted.

 

[jtpollock]

Thanks to all - one more Question. Do I have to use the BRP antifreeze or will any antifreeze for Aluminum Block work? :chat: Kind of sad there aren't more people around home to get info from. :cheers: jtpollock.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

Any antifreeze should work as long as it is safe for aluminum engines.

 

[DrewNJ]

Its green ethylene glycol. Just make sure whatever you choose is compatible. No dexcool.

 

[DrewNJ]

If your swapping the stat leave your radiator tank cap tight. This will minimize how much comes out during disassembly. Put a small clean bucket under where your working to catch your spills and reuse. When I did mine I didn't need any additional other than what my bucket caught. Good luck!

 

[jtpollock]

Well it took longer to take off all the body panels as it did to take the thermostat housing off antifreeze everywhere my catch pan cough part but most went on the floor when it hit the plastic part under the radiator. Now just waiting for the parts to come in hope there not on one of those ships sitting in the harbor waiting to unload…
nojoke part can't get here soon enough close to 70° today and I'm driving the car :hun: jtpollock

 

[jtpollock]

:clap::yes: My parts came in late Yesterday. I got home, fixed dinner, and went out to the garage to put the thermostat in. Got it in less than 15 min, roll out to add new anti-freeze, what a poor location for something that should be serviced! As I was pouring the anti-freeze in it was going out the overflow. The tank is now full. Started the Spyder, let it run, add a little more anti-freeze, put the cap on first detent, then pushed down and twisted and got the second detent and ran out of sunlight. Have to finish tomorrow after work putting all the plastic back on. I want to ride, PMS is killing me "You know PMS - Parked Motorcycle Syndrome" Well thanks to all for your input from when I started looking for answers to this problem... Sunny Days
:f_spider:.. jtpollock

 

[jtpollock]

OK. I thought all was going fine. Got my new rear tire on and balanced.
I did an oil change and Plugs - 45,000 miles, my mechanic checked the fan
and the thermostat replacement and did not find any problems. Took my Spyder
home and put all the plastic back on; one last check, let it run for 30 minutes.
No problems, 3 bars on the temp gauge. We went for a short 70-mile ride, 3 bars
all the way. The last 4 miles rise 300 feet, nice little climb, got home - 4 bar! I ran
over to the gas station & got a high temp warning, pegged on the temp gauge, lost anti-freeze.
I need to figure out what is wrong before I break something. This has been going on for almost a month...

jtpollock :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

 

[Bob Denman]

I know that this doesn't directly address the problem... pps:

But I used to run Engine Ice in my Yamaha Grizzly ATV...
Low speed running with a mud-clogged radiator is a good test of a cooling system! :yikes:

The bike ran about 10 degrees cooler with it... :thumbup:

 

[jtpollock]

I know that this doesn't directly address the problem... pps:

But I used to run Engine Ice in my Yamaha Grizzly ATV...
Low speed running with a mud-clogged radiator is a good test of a cooling system! :yikes:

The bike ran about 10 degrees cooler with it... :thumbup:

Ya Bob I was running purple ice in Durango when this hole problem started.

today I am just running anit-freeze... starting to run out of hope so many
things that have been a problem for 3 years of ownership... :dontknow::gaah:thanks jtpollock.

 

[Bob Denman]

I'd say that, "Great minds think alike", but I wouldn't want to insult you like that!