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Helmet noise reduction

I just got some of these and have only used them on one ride and doing some vacuuming around the house. It's just like custom earplugs for a lot less money. I wasn't sure but for the price I thought why not!
http://earplugsonline.com/

Everyone is different. But I think there is a limit to how much noise you want to block as being able to hear is also important to safety. I've had some ear plugs that I felt blocked too much sound.

It's a good thing to hear the train coming, is all I'm saying.
 
BajaRon is spot on. I was taught to have a buddy grab the front of the helmet and try and do the maneuvers described. When someone else does it and you feel and see the helmet move and slide you have no doubt you need a smaller size.

I was not taught about helmet shape and head shape. I am still not clear how you determine your head shape except by observation but helmet reviews now also compare shapes. I went from a Shoei Multitec to a Shark Evoline and the comfort and fit were vastly improved. Bought both without knowing about head shape but it taught me the lesson.

As far as turbulence from the bottom of the helmet, that's a tough one. Personally think this is the real purpose for a better windscreen on the bike. And of course even that is hard to size and angle. If I had that to do over again, I'd get the one you can slide and angle.
 
As I remember from years of using a helment that when you have the helmet on and you move it from front to back and side to side the scalp should move and not the helment on your head. Bob
 
BajaRon is spot on. I was taught to have a buddy grab the front of the helmet and try and do the maneuvers described. When someone else does it and you feel and see the helmet move and slide you have no doubt you need a smaller size.

I was not taught about helmet shape and head shape. I am still not clear how you determine your head shape except by observation but helmet reviews now also compare shapes. I went from a Shoei Multitec to a Shark Evoline and the comfort and fit were vastly improved. Bought both without knowing about head shape but it taught me the lesson.

As far as turbulence from the bottom of the helmet, that's a tough one. Personally think this is the real purpose for a better windscreen on the bike. And of course even that is hard to size and angle. If I had that to do over again, I'd get the one you can slide and angle.

It is always best to have someone manipulate the helmet while you are wearing it. But not everyone has that luxury. The head shake will work in a pinch.

The Shoei is more of a Round head shape whereas the Shark is more of an intermediate head shape. That is why you'll find people that say 'I have a Shoei head'. Whether they know it or not, that means they tend towards a round head shape.

The way to tell what kind of head you have is to try on a Round head helmet like a Shoei or Arai Quantum. And then try on a Long Oval, like the Arai Profile.

In other words, if you try on a Long Oval helmet (football head) and it's tight on the sides and too much room front to back, then you are either an Intermediate or a Round head.

Then try on a Round Headed helmet like the Shoei or Arai Quantum. If it's tight front to back but too much room side to side then you are an Intermediate.

The key is to know what head shape the helmet you're trying on is and to be aware of fit all around.
 
As I remember from years of using a helment that when you have the helmet on and you move it from front to back and side to side the scalp should move and not the helment on your head. Bob

This is true. Another way to test for a properly fitted helmet.
 
One more thing. Helmet padding is designed to form fit to your face/head. So, you must purchase a new helmet that is actually a bit TOO tight. Otherwise, when the padding seats in, it will be too big and no longer fit properly.

This is the mistake I made when I bought my Shoei. I did not figure on the padding seating in, and now it does not feel quite the same as when I first bought it. Then I started using a lid cap (or light belaclava). The lid cap saved the day! Not only does it shore up the fit, it covers my ears and makes a better seal on the bottom. It also protects the liner from getting dirty.

Really though, I truly feel that the wind screen is the key to serious noise reduction. Doc Hands had a great point about getting one that adjusts both in angle as well as height. Riding the RS-S with the Ultra-Toring windshield is much more comfortable than the little Sport Tour screen I have on Phantom 14. But 14 is NEVER gonna have a touring screen on her. She's just not that kind of girl!! :roflblack:
 
This is the mistake I made when I bought my Shoei. I did not figure on the padding seating in, and now it does not feel quite the same as when I first bought it. Then I started using a lid cap (or light belaclava). The lid cap saved the day! Not only does it shore up the fit, it covers my ears and makes a better seal on the bottom. It also protects the liner from getting dirty.

Really though, I truly feel that the wind screen is the key to serious noise reduction. Doc Hands had a great point about getting one that adjusts both in angle as well as height. Riding the RS-S with the Ultra-Toring windshield is much more comfortable than the little Sport Tour screen I have on Phantom 14. But 14 is NEVER gonna have a touring screen on her. She's just not that kind of girl!! :roflblack:

Hair lenght (like if you have it long when you try on the helmet and then cut it short) can also make a difference. But it gets down to spitting hairs at some point.

Belaclavas come in different thicknesses and can make a loose helmet fit better. You can also change out the interior padding on many helmets these days to a thicker lining to improve fit.

What you don't want to do is make one shell size fit like another shell size. People do it but it isn't a good idea.

Arai makes 2 head sizes out of 1 shell size by changing the interior padding thickness. Some manufacturers will run 3 or even 4 head sizes from one shell size with padding thickness. This is not a good idea if you're on the small end of the scale (needing a lot of padding to make the helmet fit.
 
Hair lenght (like if you have it long when you try on the helmet and then cut it short) can also make a difference. But it gets down to spitting hairs at some point.

Belaclavas come in different thicknesses and can make a loose helmet fit better. You can also change out the interior padding on many helmets these days to a thicker lining to improve fit.

What you don't want to do is make one shell size fit like another shell size. People do it but it isn't a good idea.

Arai makes 2 head sizes out of 1 shell size by changing the interior padding thickness. Some manufacturers will run 3 or even 4 head sizes from one shell size with padding thickness. This is not a good idea if you're on the small end of the scale (needing a lot of padding to make the helmet fit.

Good points, Ron. This has been a very good thread, as it has really laid out some great information as to how a helmet should actually fit. You can bet I won't make the same mistakes I did the first time. I have heard the terms "relaxed fit" and "race fit" used to describe fitting characterisitcs. From now on I'm going for the "race" fit. :D
 
I have a Scorpion EXO-1000, and love it. I like the the drop down sun visor, and the inflatable cheek-pads it helps make the fit better. My only question is how do you keep the top of your ears from folding down when putting it on. It seems like on will do this every time I put it on. Of course I guess that will solve the ear plug question :roflblack:
 
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Army Dad - Try grabbing the chin straps, one in each hand, and pull them away from each other (spreading out the sides of the helmet) while pulling down on the helmet.
 
Good points, Ron. This has been a very good thread, as it has really laid out some great information as to how a helmet should actually fit. You can bet I won't make the same mistakes I did the first time. I have heard the terms "relaxed fit" and "race fit" used to describe fitting characterisitcs. From now on I'm going for the "race" fit. :D

Racers wear their helmets VERY tight, for obvious reasons. Helps prevent scrambled eggs!

You can get nearly the same protection with a little less pressure. That's where the 'Relaxed Fit' comes in. Not sure most could do a full day's riding in a 'Race Fit' helmet.

If just one person gets the right helmet out of all this, it was worth it. :D
 
Army Dad - Try grabbing the chin straps, one in each hand, and pull them away from each other (spreading out the sides of the helmet) while pulling down on the helmet.

Helmet liners ... http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/helmet-liner/

Thank you. I will try that.

... I should add ... one that fits over the ears ...http://www.ridersdiscount.com/channel-images/10/107458/320x320-FULL.jpg


Thank you. I will go to that site if GaryTheBadger's suggestion don't work for me.
 
Army Dad - Try grabbing the chin straps, one in each hand, and pull them away from each other (spreading out the sides of the helmet) while pulling down on the helmet.

There is a technique to donning a properly fit full face helmet and your ears will never know anything happened. I've seen some people put a full face helmet on top of their head and simply push down. Guaranteed, that helmet is WAY too big for that head if it goes on that way.

Pulling outward on the staps is good advise. It takes a bit of practice and hand placement on the straps can make a difference. You want to grab the straps close to the helmet.

Also, most find that bringing the helmet somewhat from the rear, rather than straight down on the head, works better. You start with the helmet tilted up wards, move it onto the back of the head, then rotate the helmet forward as you pull it forward and down.

Sounds complicated in text, but once you get the hang you'll do it in your sleep.

If you full face helmet will come straight down on your head without bending your ears, it's probably too big.

If you ever get the chance to watch a professional rider don their helmet, pay attention to how they do it. You have to watch closely though because they do it quickly. Just like they ride.
 
Really though, I truly feel that the wind screen is the key to serious noise reduction. Doc Hands had a great point about getting one that adjusts both in angle as well as height. Riding the RS-S with the Ultra-Toring windshield is much more comfortable than the little Sport Tour screen I have on Phantom 14. But 14 is NEVER gonna have a touring screen on her. She's just not that kind of girl!! :roflblack:

That's why we're so excited about the Robobrackets from Magstad we just got. It offers so many ways to adjust the windshield, height, angle, etc. All we need is for the weather to cooperate so we can play with the adjustment!
 
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