Heli-bar ????

[woodz428]

Until the Spyder arrived, I wasn't sure "exactly" what Heli-bars were. Although they seem like a well executed accessory,I'm not sure I like them that much. I'm tall and used to Sportbike type riding style( even converted my '77 wing into a sport touring), these seem to be a more upright position. Even with a Corbin shield the wind seems to be more than it should and, again, the riding position seems too upright. Before I go to the efforts to remove them, I was curious about how the stock bar position felt to some of those that haven't converted? Also if anyone converted and reverted for the same reason?
Finally,and this comes from 40 years as a bike tech, how many of those experiencing dps problems are running Heli-bars?
Yesterday was about 30*, so it was the first day that was warm enough to put some miles on it. Everything was great, with the exception of the bar/riding position.
Thanks in advance.

 

[tatt2r]

Until the Spyder arrived, I wasn't sure "exactly" what Heli-bars were. Although they seem like a well executed accessory,I'm not sure I like them that much. I'm tall and used to Sportbike type riding style( even converted my '77 wing into a sport touring), these seem to be a more upright position. Even with a Corbin shield the wind seems to be more than it should and, again, the riding position seems too upright. Before I go to the efforts to remove them, I was curious about how the stock bar position felt to some of those that haven't converted? Also if anyone converted and reverted for the same reason?
Finally,and this comes from 40 years as a bike tech, how many of those experiencing dps problems are running Heli-bars?
Yesterday was about 30*, so it was the first day that was warm enough to put some miles on it. Everything was great, with the exception of the bar/riding position.
Thanks in advance.

this has been an up and down conversation since helibars came out .... some like some dont i personally dont like them i have esi 3 inch risers and a brp 1 inch riser i sat on a spyder with helibar and im 5'7" and i didnt like seating position either .... my suggestion would be to find someone local that owns a spyder that you can feel seating position or go to a local dealer myself i would rather have factory position than helibar ... helibar is a great company that makes some great products but in my opinion they rushed the spyder bars and could have come up with something better ,,,,
again just my opinion...

 

[DynamoBT]

Only a few of us have the Heli Bar risers. Not so many people like the look. More have the ESI handlebar extensions.

It is my opinion that a handlebar riser of any kind should have no effect on the steering. Maybe I am out to lunch on that. But simply changing the position of the handlebars should not change the basic components of the DPS.

As for the ryder position with the Heli Bar riser, or any riser, it's a personal choice. I rode the Spyder in a demo ryde with the original bar position. It's definitely "forward". Too forward for me, and I'm short so I didn't have far to lean! I think it's "to each his own" a matter of personal preference.

I like the Heli Bar risers because you can return the bike to stock not having cut the handlebars. But again, it's all a matter of opinion. I don't mind the look. When I'm ryding, I'm not looking at my handlebars. So it doesn't bother me. In your case, be thankful that you don't have the ESI riser instead of the Heli Bar. You would have to shell out some bucks for a new set of handlebars to return it to the stock position. As your bars were not cut, you have a choice now. Stock or not.

This is not to say that most if not every person with the ESI risers likes them very much. My dealer had the Heli Bars right there ready to install. It was an easy choice for me to get them.

 

[woodz428]

I used to work for the dealership that handles Spyders(before there were Spyders) in Decatur,Il. I might ride over there when it gets a tad warmer( supposed to get back in the 40s next week) and see how the stock bars feel before removing the Helibars.
My interest in the dps/Helibars relationship had more to do with whether the extra leverage that "setbacks" give might make the steering "notchiness" less noticable, or even eliminate it altogether.

 

[rnet]

I like the Heli Bar risers because you can return the bike to stock not having cut the handlebars. But again, it's all a matter of opinion. I don't mind the look. When I'm ryding, I'm not looking at my handlebars. So it doesn't bother me. In your case, be thankful that you don't have the ESI riser instead of the Heli Bar. You would have to shell out some bucks for a new set of handlebars to return it to the stock position. As your bars were not cut, you have a choice now. Stock or not.

Don't let that determine whether you use the ESI risers or not, cause it's very easy to return to a stock setup, but you do need to save the handlebar ends you cut off. 10 minutes for a good welder.

 

[NancysToy]

Don't let that determine whether you use the ESI risers or not, cause it's very easy to return to a stock setup, but you do need to save the handlebar ends you cut off. 10 minutes for a good welder.

I wouldn't recommend welding the handlebars, unless they were sleeved for reinforcement. Fitting tight sleeves and drilling the holes to spot weld them in would eat up more than ten minutes. A butt weld on thin tubing at this location is under a lot of stress, and could fail at the wrong time. Not for me! The money spent for replacement bars would be worth every penny for peace of mind alone. BTW, few people have expressed a desire to revert to stock after the ESI risers.

 

[LDFIREWORKS]

:agree::agree:

 

[Big Arm]

10 minutes for a good welder.

:yikes:

 

[rnet]

Before I made that above statement I asked a seasoned race car fabricator what he thought about the handlebars being welded and that was what he told me. Scotty, perhaps you need to find a good welder. So I went back again and he told me he could even make them stronger than stock.

 

[tatt2r]

I wouldn't recommend welding the handlebars, unless they were sleeved for reinforcement. Fitting tight sleeves and drilling the holes to spot weld them in would eat up more than ten minutes. A butt weld on thin tubing at this location is under a lot of stress, and could fail at the wrong time. Not for me! The money spent for replacement bars would be worth every penny for peace of mind alone. BTW, few people have expressed a desire to revert to stock after the ESI risers.

:agree::agree::agree:

 

[ataDude]

... with whether the extra leverage that "setbacks" give might make the steering "notchiness" less noticable, or even eliminate it altogether.

If you have "notchiness", it's not due to any of the risers. It's a defective steering unit. Get it fixed... it gets worse.

.

 

[woodz428]

If you have "notchiness", it's not due to any of the risers. It's a defective steering unit. Get it fixed... it gets worse.

.

No our Spyder hasn't displayed that problem. I was noticing a number of owners mentioning it on various forums and was curious as to how many had or didn't have Helibars, that were experiencing the issue. Since it doesn't seem to be a broad problem, I wondered if Helibars may have lessened the chance of it being felt. The ones mentioning it seemed to indicate that you could "power" through it. With the extra leverage that set backs give,I wondered if that created the "powering through" without it being noticed. I always try to correlate why 2 models of the same mass produced vehicle could vary that much from one to the other.
As I said, it's the bike tech/service manager in me.

 

[ataDude]

Gotcha.

No our Spyder hasn't displayed that problem. I was noticing a number of owners mentioning it on various forums and was curious as to how many had or didn't have Helibars, that were experiencing the issue. Since it doesn't seem to be a broad problem, I wondered if Helibars may have lessened the chance of it being felt. The ones mentioning it seemed to indicate that you could "power" through it. With the extra leverage that set backs give,I wondered if that created the "powering through" without it being noticed. I always try to correlate why 2 models of the same mass produced vehicle could vary that much from one to the other.
As I said, it's the bike tech/service manager in me.

 

[Neez]

I rode with the stock bar setup for a while, but found I would get sore wrists on a long enough ride. The BRP 1 inch riser cured that and suits me perfectly, but I'm in the minority. Most folks like the upright position afforded by the 3 or 4 inch risers. However, you say you like the sport riding position so it might be worth a try.

 

[NancysToy]

Before I made that above statement I asked a seasoned race car fabricator what he thought about the handlebars being welded and that was what he told me. Scotty, perhaps you need to find a good welder. So I went back again and he told me he could even make them stronger than stock.

I know plenty of good welders, and am pretty fair at it myself (although out of practice). I have also raced a lot tube framed dragsters and bikes over the years, and inspected many more as a tech inspector. It is absolutely necessary to reinforce a butt weld in thinwall tubing when you weld it. Nothing else will hold up over time, pass tech inspection, or meet SFI specs. Fabricators use reinforced butt welds only as a last resort. It is considered bad building practice. Even if Magnifluxed and X-rayed, I would not ride such a thing...especially to save $100. Don't let your welder's overconfidence, or understatement of what is really necessary, fool you.

 

[rnet]

I would have complete confidence in about four welders around me cause I seen what they can do, one has a land speed record at bonneville for a motorcycle. A good weld will rarely break, but the surrounding areas can, but that was'nt the point of the statement. He was asking about options about handlebars, and yes I also thought about new handlebars, but that was obvious and I was keeping it short. What would I do, leave on my risers.

 

[Mad Matt]

The nicest setup is of course the Kewlmetal handle bars!! It provides 3 accessory mount points, 3 choices of bar height, several choices of center console, and you don't have to cut your stock bars.

I really don't see cutting the stock bars as much of an issue, BUT, it's just an advantage of the Kewlbars if you wanted to preserve your stock bars for some reason.

http://www.kewlmetalstore.com/index.php?cPath=5_39&osCsid=79a6dd60ad38b89f85ca3bf4768e0524

Mad Matt

 

[SpyderWolf]

I also am running with just the BRP 1" riser and have been very happy and comfortable with the riding position. It definitely keeps that sporty feel on the Spyder. My wife's Spyder has the 1" riser and the ESI 3" extensions, and I do not really care for the riding position on hers that much either. I feel a little off balance when I am sitting upright like that for some reason. I am sure I could get used to it over time, but since I am happy with my setup I am going to leave it that way.

 

[Amanda B]

What does Heli Bar installed look like

What is wrong with the Heli Bar? What does it look like installed? Anyone got pictures? I am debating the NMN risers or those and I've never seen what the Heli looks like so I don't know why some do not like it.

 

[DynamoBT]

Wish I could help you out and take a shot of mine. But my camera is out of commission right now. I need to rectify that. But haven't.

Honestly it's just an offset handlebar from the steering column. The big thing is that the key must insert into the handlebars in the new forward position. The old key hole is covered with an insert that comes with the Heli Bar. I don't find it ugly at all. But some do.

Anyway, I wish I could help you out with a pic. I just can't right now.