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Heel Braking

Neez

New member
Being the owner of 2 artificial knees, I find that the stock riding position gives me leg cramps after a while. It helped some when I went to a brake pedal extender, and some more when I got the Kewl Metal highway peg mounts and Kuryakin Iso-boards. But when using the highway pegs, I was always worried about the longer brake reaction time and I didn't use them as much as I would have wished. So, I decided to arrange things to see if I could come up with a heel braking system that would work quickly and safely.
I exchanged the Iso-boards for Kuryakin Iso pegs, part#8002. These have a round cross-section allowing the foot to pivot and also allowing the peg to be closer to the brake pedal. I found that my calf-high riding boots restricted foot pivoting, so I replaced them with boots that just covered the ankle bones. My previous homemade brake pedal extender only brought the pedal pad out 2 inches from it's stock position, and this length proved insufficient, so I increased by one inch. The new extender was made out of a piece of 3/16 x 1 x 5 inch flatbar, properly drilled and bolted up. Use a good grade of bolt. The link on the Kewl Metal peg mounts allow a good amount of adjustment. You want your heel just clear of the end of the brake pad. You will swing the heel inboard and depress the pedal. Adjust the peg position and extender length until it feels perfect and then find a lonely road to practice, practice, practice, switching frequently from toe braking to heel braking. It has to be second nature, if not, revert to stock. We're talking brakes here!
It has worked out perfectly for me and I ride around town confidently on the forward pegs with a great deal more comfort. I still use the stock pegs in the twisties, though.
 
Being the owner of 2 artificial knees, I find that the stock riding position gives me leg cramps after a while. It helped some when I went to a brake pedal extender, and some more when I got the Kewl Metal highway peg mounts and Kuryakin Iso-boards. But when using the highway pegs, I was always worried about the longer brake reaction time and I didn't use them as much as I would have wished. So, I decided to arrange things to see if I could come up with a heel braking system that would work quickly and safely.
I exchanged the Iso-boards for Kuryakin Iso pegs, part#8002. These have a round cross-section allowing the foot to pivot and also allowing the peg to be closer to the brake pedal. I found that my calf-high riding boots restricted foot pivoting, so I replaced them with boots that just covered the ankle bones. My previous homemade brake pedal extender only brought the pedal pad out 2 inches from it's stock position, and this length proved insufficient, so I increased by one inch. The new extender was made out of a piece of 3/16 x 1 x 5 inch flatbar, properly drilled and bolted up. Use a good grade of bolt. The link on the Kewl Metal peg mounts allow a good amount of adjustment. You want your heel just clear of the end of the brake pad. You will swing the heel inboard and depress the pedal. Adjust the peg position and extender length until it feels perfect and then find a lonely road to practice, practice, practice, switching frequently from toe braking to heel braking. It has to be second nature, if not, revert to stock. We're talking brakes here!
It has worked out perfectly for me and I ride around town confidently on the forward pegs with a great deal more comfort. I still use the stock pegs in the twisties, though.

Neez,

I like your design and your advice. :thumbup:

I know some here will probably warn you that your brain might get confused in a panic situation, but you reminded me of my father who, decades ago when we got our first automatic transmission car, taught me to brake with my left foot. "If reaction time is everything, why should I take all that time to remove my right foot from the accelerator and move it all the way over to the brake, when my left foot was just sitting there doing nothing?!"

I also agree that the type of boot you wear would make a big ole difference.

:chat:
 
You can do that with ISCI's floorboard/brake extension and hyway pegs right out of the box. Been doing that for a year now. Everything is farther forward though.
 
You can do that with ISCI's floorboard/brake extension and hyway pegs right out of the box. Been doing that for a year now. Everything is farther forward though.
Well, rmet, the ISCI stuff is certainly beautiful and well engineered, but it's fairly costly, too. Adding up prices from the ads, I get $1410 total for the ISCI floorboards, hinged brake levers and highway pegs. The Kewl Metal brackets and Kuryakin clevises and Iso-pegs totaled $233. I believe the ISCI parts are worth it if you have the coin to spare. I didn't, so I improvised, and am pretty happy with the results.
 
I do this same thing with my simple floorboard design. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5511

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I don't need the extension because I don't have the highway pegs installed. This allows me to use the standard peg (toe) or the floorboard (heel) with the standard brake lever.
 
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Neez, I like that...

brake pedal extension. I have the same problem with knees getting real painful when riding. Thanks for the picture of the extension. A big thumbs up to you :2thumbs: for pictures and tip! /Ken krb1945-OEM
 
I have a 2008 SM5 with the "Dean Smith" floor boards and with his set up you do the "HEEL BRAKING"...it was something different at first, but in a very short time it just became a natural thing...I REALLY like it...When shifting or braking you never lift you foot off the floorboard..I too have two knee replacements and this cured my knee discomfort..larryd :2thumbs:
 
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