Heat shielding for hot seat

[ABCtriker]

I am a very new owner of a 2013 RT SE5 and am looking for a way to have a cooler seat and leg hugging saddle. I am NOT a cut up my trike nor take it apart kind of rider -- yet.

Husband shop talked with the guys who work on heat tests and jet engines at work. One of the custom-bike and car guys, suggested lining the seat with:

DEI 010462 Reflect-A-Cool 24" x 24" Radiant Heat Barrier.

DEI Heat Screen "Heat Screen offers an excellent way to reflect radiant heat away from a vehicle‘s interior and because of its flexibility, can be trimmed-to-size to protect against excessive heat sources.Constructed of a high temperature resistant fiberglass material, and with a thickness of only .060”, Heat Screen features a thermal barrier on one side made of a superior reflective aluminized mylar surface capable of withstanding direct heat up to 1200°F.
Heat Screen can be used to protect areas where excessive heat can blister paint, where exhaust pipes run close to the fuel tank, and has many other applications including floorboards, body panels and under carpeting.


Has anyone tried it? Thought I'd ask before slapping it on.

 

[Magdave]

I am a very new owner of a 2013 RT SE5 and am looking for a way to have a cooler seat and leg hugging saddle. I am NOT a cut up my trike nor take it apart kind of rider -- yet.

Husband shop talked with the guys who work on heat tests and jet engines at work. One of the custom-bike and car guys, suggested lining the seat with:

DEI 010462 Reflect-A-Cool 24" x 24" Radiant Heat Barrier.

DEI Heat Screen "Heat Screen offers an excellent way to reflect radiant heat away from a vehicle‘s interior and because of its flexibility, can be trimmed-to-size to protect against excessive heat sources.Constructed of a high temperature resistant fiberglass material, and with a thickness of only .060”, Heat Screen features a thermal barrier on one side made of a superior reflective aluminized mylar surface capable of withstanding direct heat up to 1200°F.
Heat Screen can be used to protect areas where excessive heat can blister paint, where exhaust pipes run close to the fuel tank, and has many other applications including floorboards, body panels and under carpeting.


Has anyone tried it? Thought I'd ask before slapping it on.

I used the tape kind of the same item to do my gas tank and seal the holes around the latch and gas cap and have a significant drop in temperature. It will require taking the side panels off but it works. Temps dropped from 155deg at the latch to 100deg and the gas cap is now cool to touch. I did the whole underside of the gas cap plastic surround. I also did pull the glove box insert out and did inside there too. It is cool now.I also did the steel channel that goes under the glove box. You will need to tape around the big hole around the latch cable. I do not think doing the underside of the seat will give you the results you desire but I could be wrong. For something so thin I find it hard to believe it works but it does.
Here is a link to what I did
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?58192-Recall-done-BRP-call-and-extra-insulation
This is what I used + a few pieces around the cap area from a wrecked LTD
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/p...m_medium=cpc&gclid=CNOi-qPW4rkCFc-Y4AodNAEA-w

 

[Dan_Ashley]

I purchased some classic car heat shield. It is expensive like $40 for one package that contains 18" x24" um two pieces. I cut it to fit under the seat, being careful to make room for the air, brake fluids, etc. Then I used double stick carpet tape to hold it in place. It seems to have helped. My mechanic laughed at me. We are friends so that was ok.

 

[ABCtriker]

I used the tape kind of the same item to do my gas tank and seal the holes around the latch and gas cap and have a significant drop in temperature. It will require taking the side panels off but it works. Temps dropped from 155deg at the latch to 100deg and the gas cap is now cool to touch. I did the whole underside of the gas cap plastic surround. I also did pull the glove box insert out and did inside there too. It is cool now.I also did the steel channel that goes under the glove box. You will need to tape around the big hole around the latch cable. I do not think doing the underside of the seat will give you the results you desire but I could be wrong. For something so thin I find it hard to believe it works but it does.

Thanks for the information -- may I send it to my mechanic?

I was wondering, though, What happens to the heat that is reflected from seat, glove box, etc.? Does it just get stuck inside and make the inards hotter? I was looking at the adjustable wind deflectors, saw kind of mixed reviews.

 

[flamingobabe]

Thanks for the information -- may I send it to my mechanic?

I was wondering, though, What happens to the heat that is reflected from seat, glove box, etc.? Does it just get stuck inside and make the inards hotter? I was looking at the adjustable wind deflectors, saw kind of mixed reviews.

This is the million dollar question and my most concerns....are we eliminating heat on us to only redirect/reflect it to all the rubber and plastic parts under the Tupperware....what is going to happen when the bike is a year old....2 years old....is BRP going to replace the parts that melt? are the melted parts going to deteriorate to the point of failing and then what???? BRP...there are serious issues with the 2013 ST & RT's

 

[Bob Denman]

I'vve been kicking around some ideas as to how to get some air moving up inside the bodywork...
A low-profile hood-scoop mounted up under the belly of the bike might be used to pull air up and into the beast...
The left side of the bike contains an oil cooler; no radiator... I wonder if you could block off the opening (By the grillework), and re-direct the flow back into the bodywiork?? (I really don't know if this one is even close to workable! :shocked

 

[Magdave]

I'vve been kicking around some ideas as to how to get some air moving up inside the bodywork...
A low-profile hood-scoop mounted up under the belly of the bike might be used to pull air up and into the beast...
The left side of the bike contains an oil cooler; no radiator... I wonder if you could block off the opening (By the grillework), and re-direct the flow back into the bodywiork?? (I really don't know if this one is even close to workable! :shocked

There is always the adjustable wind deflectors for the RT I am sure they will add some downward pressure to the front honeycomb in the parallel or inverted position. I am looking at the bottom plates and marine venturi vent installs on them.I don't think we want to pull it in but pull it out so it is replaced from out side. Pulling it in would only increase the heat rise IMHO. Not sure they will work with out cutting them they are 17" long but they are in the mail. They will also add 11/16" to the clearance looks to be about the same as Spyderpops skid plate.

 

[Magdave]

Thanks for the information -- may I send it to my mechanic?

I was wondering, though, What happens to the heat that is reflected from seat, glove box, etc.? Does it just get stuck inside and make the inards hotter? I was looking at the adjustable wind deflectors, saw kind of mixed reviews.

That is the good thing information around here is free :thumbup: Doing the gas tank was a safety item to me it really isn't much of a heat sink. The others ..ehh they do stop a little heat from rising out but there are still the front honeycombs to pick up the slack.

 

[Bob Denman]

I am looking at the bottom plates and marine venturi vent installs on them.I don't think we want to pull it in but pull it out so it is replaced from out side. Pulling it in would only increase the heat rise IMHO. Not sure they will work with out cutting them they are 17" long but they are in the mail. They will also add 11/16" to the clearance looks to be about the same as Spyderpops skid plate.

Dave,
Any pictures available for what you've got in mind? :shocked: It sounds workable! :thumbup:

(I've got no dog in this fight; just trying to find a solution for our 2013 firends...)

 

[Magdave]

Dave,
Any pictures available for what you've got in mind? :shocked: It sounds workable! :thumbup:

(I've got no dog in this fight; just trying to find a solution for our 2013 firends...)

http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Venturi-Vent

 

[Bob Denman]

Getting the air moving throught them; are those louvres angled? :dontknow:

 

[Magdave]

Getting the air moving throught them; are those louvres angled? :dontknow:

Yes sir that is how the venturi effect is generated. Angle towards the rear.

 

[Bob Denman]

That sounds even more promising... :thumbup:
Please let us know how they work out for you! Good luck! :2thumbs:

 

[Magdave]

That sounds even more promising... :thumbup:
Please let us know how they work out for you! Good luck! :2thumbs:

It is going to be tough evaluating them now that the temps are falling. I am going to do several temp measurements on the Tupperware before and after so it will be a week or 2. I still am not sure how to fit them or if they will fit at all they do rise inside the mounting it is going to be tricky positioning and cutting one or both pieces on to the bottom plate it has so many dimples and curves on it. I am gonna try though.

 

[Bob Denman]

:thumbup: Butch & Paula just reminded me that Lamont had mounted some boat hood scoops on his GS to improve the cold air intake capabilities... Perhaps a two-pronged assault may be needed?? :dontknow:

 

[Magdave]

:thumbup: Butch & Paula just reminded me that Lamont had mounted some boat hood scoops on his GS to improve the cold air intake capabilities...View attachment 76564 Perhaps a two-pronged assault may be needed?? :dontknow:

Totally different for the RT as you know. I think the adjustable deflectors are a better (looking too) way to go on an RT. That is a good solution for an RS though.

 

[jerpinoy]

I'vve been kicking around some ideas as to how to get some air moving up inside the bodywork...
A low-profile hood-scoop mounted up under the belly of the bike might be used to pull air up and into the beast...
The left side of the bike contains an oil cooler; no radiator... I wonder if you could block off the opening (By the grillework), and re-direct the flow back into the bodywiork?? (I really don't know if this one is even close to workable! :shocked

The question is ,what prevents the air from flowing from front to the rear? Can we make air passages? Jet engines are hot but the engine nacelle have air space and keep it cooler. This design should be adapted to our spyder tupperware(nacelle). Bob, I'm sure you will come up with same concept.