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Heat dissipation experiment.
- Thread starter FiFi
- Start date
SpyderAnn01
Active member
The kit is something that BRP is testing on the 2013 RTs. Among other things, they put a bunch of holes in the plastic under the seat pan. It looks like they are trying to make it a convection oven by evenly distributing the heat all over your rear end instead of just cooking you in one spot by the glove box.
They also replaced the fixed plastic panels under the mirrors with the adjustable ones and re-wired the fan so it blows in the opposite direction when you're under 6 mph. They said that's what the 2014's do. But the wife says her thigh is now what gets roasted so the kit just changed where the heat goes. BRP said if the kit is successful they will most likely offer it to all. I don't know about any convection effect, but I just can't figure out how the holes under the seat will help. You would think that since heat rises it would make it even hotter. The dealer said he has no idea how this will help, he was just told by BRP to do it.
johnnyrocket
New member
Only real difference I saw was the reverse fan blowing heat away from foot on right side at low speed. I do like that, rest of heat is about the same. I am happy they are doing something anyway.
robmorg
New member
I certainly would NOT want to do that, as it seems counterproductive. I took the opposite approach. I lined the bottoms of those panels with reflective heat tape which I also used liberally around the glovebox area. Those actions, along with wrapping the headers, have eliminated a great deal of the heat that had been coming up around the seat.
Magdave
New member
Forum member jahberst had it done to his bike. The result? He traded it in for a 2014nojoke Another try for a cheap fix IMHO. I already have the adjustable vents and an Ultimate seat that will still let the heat come up front at the glove box because they have a tunnel there.How do they know it will not destroy the seat? I wish they would quit trying to find the cheapest fix they can. The fix is Jet Hot ceramic header + properly insulated gas tank + CAT insulated sheild over top of it. It will cost a little more than drilling holes and putting a $5 reversing relay in ( that will affect the ambient temp sensor causing the engine A/F mixture to be off because of the higher temp). Who is there engineer ? Rube & Goldberg. Seriously tin foil + drilled holes is a fix for bikes that can catch on fire? The gas will still boil sitting over the engine. The EVAP canister is still 1" from the exhaust header.
Magdave
New member
As we all know it is not the hot seat is the issue it is the boiling gas tank spewing fume through the canister when the purge valve is not open.I did pretty much the same you did + more but it did not stop the gas fumes.
Dan McNally
New member
I like the idea of the reverse fan relay . . . but agree that drilling holes under the seat seems counter-intuitive. Moving the CAT from directly underneath, to the end of the exhaust seems like a better idea . . .
PMK
Active member
PMK
Active member
I agree. Move the heat sources if possible.
Almost seems that for testing, the plastic underseat panels could have been simply removed rather than cut.
PK
jaherbst
New member
I was also a test participant. IMHO it did very little if nothing. Still gas fumes and heat. I did like the reversed fan as it at least blew some of the fumes away from me depending on the wind.
Jack
PMK
Active member
We have a 14, FWIW, the reversing fans go me the stink eye before. In a parking lot, stopped to let pedestrians pass by. he man and wife decided to get very close to the front end of the Spyder. As they stepped across the front end, the fans kicked in. Gave them both a blast of heated air, the woman had to grab her skirt. No doubt they thought I did it which resulted in the stink eye stare.
PK
Gray Ghost
New member
I was also part of the experiment. The changes were:
1. Moved the Ambient Air Temperature and Pressure Sensor
2. Install a Fan Module
3. Install the adjustable wind deflectors
4. Install heat shields on the exhausts
5. Drill holes under the seat
6. Install new insulation on the RH rear side panel.
I measured the temps at various points on my three day ride to Florida to have the kit installed, then again on the return trip to Texas. The average air temperature on the ride back was 81, about a degree above the ride out. I compared the average temperatures and the max temperatures.
Glove box - Avg temp went up 2.4, max temp decreased 3
Gasoline - Avg temp decreased 2, max decreased 6
Tank inlet - Avg decreased 5, max decreased 19
Right Foot - Avg and max decreased 3
Left knee pad of seat - Avg decreased 1, max increased 1.
On the trip out, at each gas stop the fuel was at least agitated and in some big bubbles were present. On the return trip, at least once the gas was calm, and I don't think that the bubbling was quite as intense. Average MPG on the return trip was almost 2 MPG better.
1. Moved the Ambient Air Temperature and Pressure Sensor
2. Install a Fan Module
3. Install the adjustable wind deflectors
4. Install heat shields on the exhausts
5. Drill holes under the seat
6. Install new insulation on the RH rear side panel.
I measured the temps at various points on my three day ride to Florida to have the kit installed, then again on the return trip to Texas. The average air temperature on the ride back was 81, about a degree above the ride out. I compared the average temperatures and the max temperatures.
Glove box - Avg temp went up 2.4, max temp decreased 3
Gasoline - Avg temp decreased 2, max decreased 6
Tank inlet - Avg decreased 5, max decreased 19
Right Foot - Avg and max decreased 3
Left knee pad of seat - Avg decreased 1, max increased 1.
On the trip out, at each gas stop the fuel was at least agitated and in some big bubbles were present. On the return trip, at least once the gas was calm, and I don't think that the bubbling was quite as intense. Average MPG on the return trip was almost 2 MPG better.
SpyderAnn01
Active member
Doesn't seem like a big improvement to me.
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