Headlight switch?

[Campverdefela]

Is it possible to splice in a switch for the headlights and not throw an error code or put it in limp mode? I have the daylight running lights and other bright fronts and mostly ride in the day so I want to be able to turn the headlights on and off at will.

 

[Firefly]

Is it possible to splice in a switch for the headlights and not throw an error code or put it in limp mode? I have the daylight running lights and other bright fronts and mostly ride in the day so I want to be able to turn the headlights on and off at will.

:lecturef_smilie: Bad idea--- not to mention illegal in most states that I know of.

No good reason not to have them running -- so you're seen better.

 

[Firefly]

I disagree. I'm planning on wiring a switch into the lighting circuits so that I can turn them off. I prefer to start the bike and then turn the lights on as I leave. If I'm working on the bike for some reason and I need the key on and I'm in the garage, I don't need the lights. I like having control over my lights. I always ride with them on but I want the ability to turn them off when not needed. That sounds reasonable doesn't it?

Back to the other part of his question. Can a code be expected if the Spyder is running and the lights are off? :dontknow:

The lights don't come on until you START the Spyder---so it already does exactly what you want.

 

[boborgera]

The lights don't come on until you START the Spyder---so it already does exactly what you want.

My GS 08 works the same way, But once when i was checking to see if my spark plug wires were arcing, and i needed complete darkness i pulled the headlight relay and it didn't throw a code.

 

[bruiser]

The lights don't come on until you START the Spyder---so it already does exactly what you want.

The lights on my RT come on when the key is turned on. Is the RS/GS different???

 

[Campverdefela]

:lecturef_smilie: Bad idea--- not to mention illegal in most states that I know of.

No good reason not to have them running -- so you're seen better.

Its not illegal if you have running lights as I do. Again I would appreciate answers and hope people refrain from why we shouldn't do it. Thanks

 

[Firefly]

Its not illegal if you have running lights as I do. Again I would appreciate answers and hope people refrain from why we shouldn't do it. Thanks

Sorry, but you have to also understand the others read these forums and they should be able to see all opinions on such matters. Most (maybe all??) states require daytime headlight operation. The cop on the side of the road may or may not consider your other lights 'okay', but I know my state law clearly uses the term 'headlight'.

Good luck, hope you find the answer you're looking for---- but I still think it's a really bad idea and see no good reason for such a switch.

 

[NancysToy]

Just to clarify some things.....
1. Over half the states require daytime headlight operation for motorcycles. Michigan is not one of them.
2. Every motorcycle I own, except the Spyders, has the option of turning off the headlights while riding...but I would not do it on a bet!
3. The Spyder headlights do not come on when the key is turned on. The front fender lights and the LED accent lights (if so equipped) do.
4. The headlights come on when the engine starts.
5. The headlights remain on aftert the key is switched off...until the shut-down timer times out.

 

[Firefly]

Just to clarify some things.....
1. Over half the states require daytime headlight operation for motorcycles. Michigan is not one of them.
2. Every motorcycle I own, except the Spyders, has the option of turning off the headlights while riding...but I would not do it on a bet!
3. The Spyder headlights do not come on when the key is turned on. The front fender lights and the LED accent lights (if so equipped) do.
4. The headlights come on when the engine starts.
5. The headlights remain on aftert the key is switched off...until the shut-down timer times out.

Interesting... guess I misread the chart I pulled up that listed eye protection, daytime headlights, etc.

Found another chart that supports your statement about daytime running lights in Michigan... thanks for clearing that up-- not that I would drive with them off anyway.

So the RT and the RS work the same---- engine running before lights come on?

 

[NancysToy]

So the RT and the RS work the same---- engine running before lights come on?

Yep. I couldn't remember for sure, so I went out and tested both. The RTS fools you, because the accent LEDs cast a forward light in a dark garage.

 

[Campverdefela]

Just to clarify some things.....
1. Over half the states require daytime headlight operation for motorcycles. Michigan is not one of them.
2. Every motorcycle I own, except the Spyders, has the option of turning off the headlights while riding...but I would not do it on a bet!
3. The Spyder headlights do not come on when the key is turned on. The front fender lights and the LED accent lights (if so equipped) do.
4. The headlights come on when the engine starts.
5. The headlights remain on aftert the key is switched off...until the shut-down timer times out.

In Arizona the use of daylight running lights such as headlights or modulating lights is recommended but not required. As I stated I have very bright running lights and other supplement lighting I run in the daytime. I would still appreciate any answers to my original questions.

 

[NancysToy]

In Arizona the use of daylight running lights such as headlights or modulating lights is recommended but not required. As I stated I have very bright running lights and other supplement lighting I run in the daytime. I would still appreciate any answers to my original questions.

I doubt any of us can answer. Brake light failure will put the Spyder into limp mode, but you can't see those, so they feel a need to warn you. You can see the headlights...I doubt they are monitored. The best way I can think of to test, is to pull the connectors off the backs of the bulbs, and start it up to see what happens.

 

[SpyderWolf]

In Arizona the use of daylight running lights such as headlights or modulating lights is recommended but not required. As I stated I have very bright running lights and other supplement lighting I run in the daytime. I would still appreciate any answers to my original questions.

My GS 08 works the same way, But once when i was checking to see if my spark plug wires were arcing, and i needed complete darkness i pulled the headlight relay and it didn't throw a code.

I think boborgera may have already answered the question for you. If he was able to pull the relay without it throwing a code, then you should be able to wire a switch in without causing any issues as well.

Best of luck with this project.

 

[Big Arm]

I think boborgera may have already answered the question for you. If he was able to pull the relay without it throwing a code, then you should be able to wire a switch in without causing any issues as well.

Best of luck with this project.

Try putting the switch in the control circuit, of the relay coil. I don't think you'd have any problems.

 

[SpyderWolf]

This is one of things I really like about this forum, the learning process. So you loose your brake lights and you go into limp mode. :gaah: Is there a work around for this? How long are you in limp mode? Does the 3 key cycle method get you out of it? Obviously nanny is looking at the current draw on that ckt but it must be sensing any type of draw because those that switch to LED lights draw way less then the stock bulbs. I 'm one that always does a quick walk around at gas and rest stops to check my lights but I can't imagine being sidelined on a trip because of a brake light failure. It seems a warning light would have worked just as well. You apply the brakes, no brake lights and the warning light comes on for just that function. Oh well we are stuck with it for now.

The failure code will go away when you restart the Spyder. It will also stay off until you get on the brakes hard. Once that happens it will go back into limp mode with the failure codes. This will continue to happen until you correct whatever is causing the issue. For me it was a short in my Cat Eye tail light wiring that blew the fuse. Others have had issues due to low brake fluid, even though it may not look low the Spyder is very sensitive to those levels.

I haven't heard of anyone having problems with running LED tail light bulbs instead. I think it is more of a continuity thing for power, and fluid level indicator for the other issue.

 

[NancysToy]

This is one of things I really like about this forum, the learning process. So you loose your brake lights and you go into limp mode. :gaah: Is there a work around for this? How long are you in limp mode? Does the 3 key cycle method get you out of it? Obviously nanny is looking at the current draw on that ckt but it must be sensing any type of draw because those that switch to LED lights draw way less then the stock bulbs. I 'm one that always does a quick walk around at gas and rest stops to check my lights but I can't imagine being sidelined on a trip because of a brake light failure. It seems a warning light would have worked just as well. You apply the brakes, no brake lights and the warning light comes on for just that function. Oh well we are stuck with it for now.

Most LED replacement bulbs will throw the Spyder into limp mode. There are a few that draw enough current that they will not. Best replacement is to have ESI convert your taillights, IMO.

 

[Sny]

I had both headlights fail due to an electrical issue. The guy who assembled the bike didn't remove the old wiring harness that was not reused when the 12V acc outlet was installed. This ultimately shorted against the chassis and something let out the magic smoke.

I'm ryding along and think, oh the funny smells you get exposed to in traffic, gee that smells like burning plastic. I wonder which vehicle is melting. Wait a second, I'm sitting on a big pile of plastic! :gaah:

I was surrounded in a big white cloud of smoke and figured since I was dead anyhow, I'd see if I could make it to a good spot to part and roast marshmellows.

Turns out it stopped after a minute or so and it was just the insulation on the harness going FOOMP! and leaving some hard to explain arc welds on the frame.

I didn't even notice the headlights weren't working for several days (all daytime travel on bright sunny days.) Then one night on the way home I thought, "gee it's dark out here" and wondered if all Spyders came with a hidden headlight off switch.

Anyhow, it threw no codes. You can interrupt the circuit in the headlight harness, but it's behind the frunk. Or you can pull the relay. Or you can get one of those relay interrupt things that go between the relay and the fuse box. No idea if you can find one that fits in there tho.

Best bet is to buy the service manual and follow the electrical diagrams on there. I believe you lose power to both the headlights and the fogs with the same relay but check the manual.

 

[Firefly]

This is one of things I really like about this forum, the learning process. So you loose your brake lights and you go into limp mode. :gaah: Is there a work around for this? How long are you in limp mode? Does the 3 key cycle method get you out of it? Obviously nanny is looking at the current draw on that ckt but it must be sensing any type of draw because those that switch to LED lights draw way less then the stock bulbs. I 'm one that always does a quick walk around at gas and rest stops to check my lights but I can't imagine being sidelined on a trip because of a brake light failure. It seems a warning light would have worked just as well. You apply the brakes, no brake lights and the warning light comes on for just that function. Oh well we are stuck with it for now.

Those with LED lights for the brakes have to use special versions that will work with the Spyder like the ESI units--- or use some kind of load equalizer (the ESI units have it built in).

From what I've seen you can lose 1 tail light and not go into limp mode--- at least I never got a code on mine. Also, limp mode doesn't mean you can't ride--- you're just limited on speed for safety reasons.

 

[lightman02]

Try putting the switch in the control circuit, of the relay coil. I don't think you'd have any problems.

I agree, this should work as I have also pulled my headlight relay and reinstalled it with the bike running and no codes thrown. You should be fine with this method of putting the switch into the relay coil circuit.

 

[johnboyjohn.pretious]

Just to let you know, here in the UK we do not have legislation yet to state we must have headlights or running lights on during daylight hours.
My Spyder has the lights on all the while she is running and I cant turn them off, but I would like the choice.