Headlight Shutter on RT bouncing??

[Purple Guy]

I just put a set of the 10th anniversary headlights on my 2014 RT.
Riding this morning I noticed that the low beam / hi beam shutter is moving when I hit dips in the road.
Does anyone know if the shutter can be tighten down a bit???

 

[KX5062]

Honestly I prefer running the high beams during the daytime. I know it may be technically illegal, but the shutter movements cause a flickering appearance which is what I believe your noticing. The flickering goes away on high beam mode. Then when it starts to get dark, I just lower the beams which don't appear to flicker at night.

 

[Purple Guy]

Yes the flickering of the shutter is what I'd like to eliminate.
Riding in the dark is my concern as I don't want to appear that I'm flashing my "brights" to oncoming traffic.
I had this problem on my 2012 RT but no problem with my current 2014 RT with the OEM lamps...
As for riding with the hi beams on, I have LED bulbs which are quite bright and prefer not to subject oncoming drivers to them...

 

[ARtraveler]

Two separate issues--IMO. On low beams, the shutter tends to bounce on uneven roads--giving the appearance of flashing lights.

When I had my LED's installed, the mechanic over tightened the right hand side and made that shutter stick in the "high beam" mode. Since I drive with high beams in the daylight, not an issue. No night driving here during riding season--I don't care for three AM rides. :roflblack::roflblack:

The fix for me was for them to loosen the right side. Now--back to normal. I have both high and low beams.

 

[KX5062]

Yes the flickering of the shutter is what I'd like to eliminate.
Riding in the dark is my concern as I don't want to appear that I'm flashing my "brights" to oncoming traffic.
I had this problem on my 2012 RT but no problem with my current 2014 RT with the OEM lamps...
As for riding with the hi beams on, I have LED bulbs which are quite bright and prefer not to subject oncoming drivers to them...

For whatever reason(s) the shutter bounce is not visible at night. The lights appear perfectly normal on low beam at night.

I ride consistently in front (lead rider) of a Spyder under different lighting conditions and these are my direct observations.

 

[Purple Guy]

For whatever reason(s) the shutter bounce is not visible at night. The lights appear perfectly normal on low beam at night.

I ride consistently in front (lead rider) of a Spyder under different lighting conditions and these are my direct observations.

I can notice it quite clearly, street signs ect...

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SHUTTER - BOUNCE

This is interesting .... quite awhile back , I had this same conversation with Billy Bovine .....and I'm 99.999% sure He said the Shutter is locked at Low setting AND High setting.....So there cannot be ANY bounce .....I wasn't convinced :dontknow: ..... Mike :thumbup:......................MAYBE He will chime in on this :clap:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

This is interesting quite awhile back , I had this same conversation with Billy Bovine .....and I'm 99.999% sure He said the Shutter is locked at Low setting AND High setting.....So there cannot be ANY bounce .....I wasn't convinced :dontknow: ..... Mike :thumbup:......................MAYBE He will chime in on this :clap:

I don't think it's locked. There's a solenoid that pulls the shutter out of the way for high beam. Otherwise there is a spring that holds it in low beam position. If bouncing is heavy enough then the bounce apparently can move the shutter against the spring pressure.

 

[ARtraveler]

This is interesting .... quite awhile back , I had this same conversation with Billy Bovine .....and I'm 99.999% sure He said the Shutter is locked at Low setting AND High setting.....So there cannot be ANY bounce .....I wasn't convinced :dontknow: ..... Mike :thumbup:......................MAYBE He will chime in on this :clap:

Don't know about the "locked" thing. When we had our RS and GS, spouse used to ride behind me. When low beams were on, it did appear the lights were flashing (and in a bluish color). The road was quite uneven. If the shutters are "locked," then IMO--the uneven roads are the cause of the flickering of the lights. Either way, the low beams do seem to flash. :dontknow:

 

[bmarkel]

Two separate issues--IMO. On low beams, the shutter tends to bounce on uneven roads--giving the appearance of flashing lights.

When I had my LED's installed, the mechanic over tightened the right hand side and made that shutter stick in the "high beam" mode. Since I drive with high beams in the daylight, not an issue. No night driving here during riding season--I don't care for three AM rides. ......

I have just finished installing Lamonster LED headlights in my wife's 2018 RT. When checking the lights I noticed the shutter on the right light is not working. It may not have been earlier, I don't know. Anyway, what can be over tightened? What should I check for? I hear the solenoid in the left light and not the right.
You have to stuff a bunch of wiring under the dust cap. Could I have the mechanism jammed? :helpsmilie:

 

[Bfromla]

Honestly I prefer running the high beams during the daytime. I know it may be technically illegal, but the shutter movements cause a flickering appearance which is what I believe your noticing. The flickering goes away on high beam mode. Then when it starts to get dark, I just lower the beams which don't appear to flicker at night.

:lecturef_smilie:Technically it's still a bit of debate. Minimally simple headlight is required, high beam in daylight is recommended & only illegal at & after dusk, at certain distances in front or behind another vehicle or oncoming traffic. & some states have gaps including the grassy medians where oncoming traffic is not directly effected. Point being know the laws of your State & use as basis when traveling:thumbup::clap: (disclaimer: no legal representation intended , just experience & intruction from authorities :shocked

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

You have to stuff a bunch of wiring under the dust cap. Could I have the mechanism jammed? :helpsmilie:

Yes. It's tight in there.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Two separate issues--IMO. On low beams, the shutter tends to bounce on uneven roads--giving the appearance of flashing lights.

When I had my LED's installed, the mechanic over tightened the right hand side and made that shutter stick in the "high beam" mode. Since I drive with high beams in the daylight, not an issue. No night driving here during riding season--I don't care for three AM rides.

I have just finished installing Lamonster LED headlights in my wife's 2018 RT. When checking the lights I noticed the shutter on the right light is not working. It may not have been earlier, I don't know. Anyway, what can be over tightened? What should I check for? I hear the solenoid in the left light and not the right.
You have to stuff a bunch of wiring under the dust cap. Could I have the mechanism jammed? :helpsmilie:

" Over tightened " ….. I don't think that's possible from the way the mechanism is constructed...… Because of the ADDED wire, it is more likely that is causing the shutter to be jammed - ie it can't move …… been there done that ……. Mike hyea:

 

[RICZ]

What is this shutter thing and does my F3L have it?

 

[Joel The Biker]

It might not be the shutter bouncing. You must remember they are projector headlights and have a sharp light cut-off line. A lot of vehicle these days also have projector headlights and you will notice as they approach you that it looks like they are flashing their lights. But they are not. This is most likely what you are seeing.

 

[canamjhb]

It might not be the shutter bouncing. You must remember they are projector headlights and have a sharp light cut-off line. A lot of vehicle these days also have projector headlights and you will notice as they approach you that it looks like they are flashing their lights. But they are not. This is most likely what you are seeing.

:agree: The light has a very definitive horizontal line. When your vehicle hits a bump, that line will bounce up and down. I had the same lights on my Can Am Commander. When running off road I had to always warn anyone ahead of me that the bumps would make it look like I was flashing my lights. Just the way they are..... Jim

 

[bmarkel]

" Over tightened " ….. I don't think that's possible from the way the mechanism is constructed...… Because of the ADDED wire, it is more likely that is causing the shutter to be jammed - ie it can't move …… been there done that ……. Mike

Thanks for the feedback Mike. One of my Sons was an engineer for Sylvania at one point in his career and he explained how the mechanism works. I'll bet I've jammed the mechanism with the wiring.
Hope it is that easy! LOL!

 

[bmarkel]

What is this shutter thing and does my F3L have it?

The headlight bulb has one filament. So, there is no bright and dim filament. Just a one filament bulb in one light fixture. To get the low and high beam effect, the light assembly has a metal "eye lid" which is held down by a spring to cover half of the bulb projector for low beam. If you activate the high beam, a solenoid pulls the eye lid up for high beam.
It is my understanding that all US Spyders use this system. Probably made for BRP by Valeo Sylvania.
The general consensus here is that I have jammed the mechanism when I installed aftermarket LED bulbs from Lamonster. Lots of additional wiring to stuff in with the modification. Very likely the problem I'm having.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

It is my understanding that all US Spyders use this system. Probably made for BRP by Valeo Sylvania.

The parts diagram for the F3 shows an H4 bulb which is dual filament for high and low beam in one bulb.

 

[bmarkel]

The parts diagram for the F3 shows an H4 bulb which is dual filament for high and low beam in one bulb.

You are correct. The F3-S, anyway, has a dual filament Halogen bulb. Not the peep eye set up as on the RT.