Hauling a rt

[godfather]

looks like I have to pick up my new spider with a trailer, so what size trailer and how have you guys tied her down...:dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

Tie-down is through the wheels. It is explained in the Owners Guide, which can be downloaded from the BRP Website or the SpyderLovers homepage. I use a 7x12 V-nose enclosed trailer, but there are other options. The width is the main issue, you need more than five feet of clear width. Loading ramp angles are also an issue, due to the low ground clearance of the Spyder.

 

[MouthPiece]

looks like I have to pick up my new spider with a trailer, so what size trailer and how have you guys tied her down...:dontknow:

Here's what I use. Other's have a different trailer, enclosed, etc. Mine is 6' X 10'

 

[godfather]

hauling

Here's what I use. Other's have a different trailer, enclosed, etc. Mine is 6' X 10'

Thanks I have a friend that has access to a 6x12 enclosed bike trailer wasn't sure if it would go in as the opening was little less then six feet

 

[Dragonrider]

I use a standard nose 7x12 trailer - the width is critical, and I use 3 ratchet straps - one for each wheel. This is cheaper than chocks.

The "V" nose would have cost me 2 feet of internal room, and eliminated my ability to add aluminum cabinets inside. I also opted for the optional 6" in height - so I can stand up inside the trailer (I'm 6'4"), and dual E-tracks for easy tie-downs. I looked far and wide to find a 7' wide trailer with a single axel and electric brakes - but I'm VERY happy with my trailer.

I also ordered the finished ceiling, insulated ceiling and walls, skylight, dual fume exhaust, stone guard, RV side door, custom paint, radial tires, and spare tire (outside mount), delivered for $3600 (full 3 yr warranty, and lifetime leakage warranty). I went to Home Depot and bought the floor coating and wall (deck) paint, and did that job myself in two days for under $200. You can spend a bomb on internal cabinets, but figure $500 for a really good set up.

BTW, I HAD to add a special 3D Spyder decal to the back ramp… perhaps this was more than you asked for….

 

[NancysToy]

I use a standard nose 7x12 trailer - the width is critical, and I use 3 ratchet straps - one for each wheel. This is cheaper than chocks.

The "V" nose would have cost me 2 feet of internal room, and eliminated my ability to add aluminum cabinets inside. I also opted for the optional 6" in height - so I can stand up inside the trailer (I'm 6'4"), and dual E-tracks for easy tie-downs. I looked far and wide to find a 7' wide trailer with a single axel and electric brakes - but I'm VERY happy with my trailer.

I also ordered the finished ceiling, insulated ceiling and walls, skylight, dual fume exhaust, stone guard, RV side door, custom paint, radial tires, and spare tire (outside mount), delivered for $3600 (full 3 yr warranty, and lifetime leakage warranty). I went to Home Depot and bought the floor coating and wall (deck) paint, and did that job myself in two days for under $200. You can spend a bomb on internal cabinets, but figure $500 for a really good set up.

BTW, I HAD to add a special 3D Spyder decal to the back ramp… perhaps this was more than you asked for….

It depends on how they measure the trailer. Mine is 7'x12' in the rectangular portion, with the v-nose extra, so we gained room rather than lost it. I agree about the extra tall trailer. Very much worth the extra money, as is the RV side door. Mine came with stone guards, plywood interior, and skylight, too. Like you, I prefer the single axle. Electric brakes are rare on these units, since they aren't required in many states, so I added the brakes and break-away unit myself.

 

[Dragonrider]

I would have needed a 14' trailer then, and lost my single axel.

When I had the E-track put in, I had two rows put in - one at 12" and one at 48". Allows me to easily strap stuff in, and I've built a rack that locks into the E-track and fits over the Spyder - it allows us to sleep in the trailer, if need be.

Part of the cabinets hold a Port-a-potty, fold up cooker, sleeping bags, and coffee pot, the rest are for oil, polish, rags, rain gear, etc. It's my version of a toy hauler….

 

[capt jim]

v nose

finally got my 7 x 14 v nose 4 wheel with breaks and breakaway otherwise plain jane trailer. $2500 slightley used. happy hauler. capt jim

 

[Dragonrider]

I looked a a bunch of used ones, and really wanted the taller unit, with welded E-track (the fact that the color matches my truck DID help a bit). But after 90 days of looking, the "new" option was my better choice.

I really did not want a tandem axel, nor anything much bigger that what I bought...

 

[dancogan]

I wanted to keep the trailer as light as possible (read: easily moved by hand) so have decided to go with a Triton all aluminum open trailer. The deck is 64" by 120" and I'll have a tall stone guard added to the front. The ramp will be two piece folding to reduce wind drag.

 

[cjackg]

looks like I have to pick up my new spider with a trailer, so what size trailer and how have you guys tied her down...

I am using a 7x12' bull-nose, single axle trailer made by LOOK Trailers that I bought new fully equipped with brakes, vent, Sidedoor, Ramp with flap, 15" tires, etc. The 7' wide makes loading a snap and gives a lot of extra useable space.
The downside is that my Dodge pickup drops over 5 mpg when towing this trailer. An aluminum trailer would likely do much better but they are expensive.
Here's a shot of my RT tied down & ready to travel... I simply chain the rear wheel to the center floor hook, then ratchet-strap the front wheels to hooks in the front corners. The strap across the back is just extra insurance. I dont use floor chocks.

 

[godfather]

It depends on how they measure the trailer. Mine is 7'x12' in the rectangular portion, with the v-nose extra, so we gained room rather than lost it. I agree about the extra tall trailer. Very much worth the extra money, as is the RV side door. Mine came with stone guards, plywood interior, and skylight, too. Like you, I prefer the single axle. Electric brakes are rare on these units, since they aren't required in many states, so I added the brakes and break-away unit myself.

thanks guys, you can always count on info coming to raise more questions. two of you like the single axle...WHY... my friends all say get two axle the handle better ?? and also 7x12 seems to be the answer, now where is that check book

 

[NancysToy]

I would have needed a 14' trailer then, and lost my single axel.

When I had the E-track put in, I had two rows put in - one at 12" and one at 48". Allows me to easily strap stuff in, and I've built a rack that locks into the E-track and fits over the Spyder - it allows us to sleep in the trailer, if need be.

Part of the cabinets hold a Port-a-potty, fold up cooker, sleeping bags, and coffee pot, the rest are for oil, polish, rags, rain gear, etc. It's my version of a toy hauler….

Our R&R all aluminum unit was available in a tall version with 7'x12' V-nose(7'x15' overall), with a single axle. Electric brakes were an option, but I chose to install them myself, after getting a deal on a stock trailer. I use ANCRA aircraft-type tie-down rings instead of E-track. I like the ANCRAs, because I was able to install them to allow a variety of loading combinations. They are removable, so we don't trip on them during the night. We camp in our trailer, too, with the help of a couple of cots...and the porta-potty tucked into the V-nose. I also built a removable screen for the ramp door, for ventilation at the camp site. Like you said...poor man's toy hauler.

 

[Havasu Rider]

I went with a 7x14 v-nose Haulmark. I like the extra room and also have the dual Axel with brakes. I have found over the years that the dual is easier to tow than the single. I have not had it on a long trip so Spyderfest will be the first.

 

[MouthPiece]

finally got my 7 x 14 v nose 4 wheel with breaks and breakaway otherwise plain jane trailer. $2500 slightley used. happy hauler. capt jim

See ya in Cuba Jim. Hopefully you'll be riding up with Johnny and the rest of us.

Chris PE# 0004

 

[Dragonrider]

The Single axel is much easier to manhandle, & I don't need to worry about the two extra tires... Duals are better if you don't want to watch your load - you have to keep weight on the front of a single, to keep it from swaying, but I drive a one ton Dodge, so that's not a problem.

I also prefer a covered trailer - I loath riding in the rain, and never put water on a bike, unless forced by mother nature... I also don't like cleaning bugs and road debris off my bike, unless it's from riding it..... But, that's me...

 

[fispyder]

I have a 7X12 V nose inclosed Freedom trailer. Order it 6'6" tall duel axle Wired it for 110 volts, insulated walls and ceiling, mounted cabnits in top half of the noses for storage,will put AC and awling on it. Pulls great. Wished I had order a 14 ft just to have a little more storage for the camping stuff.

 

[clueless]

anyone try the UHaul largest rental open trailer with a ramp? it looks like the ramp is 5" too narrow but the inside of the trailer is right size to fit. maybe back into the trailer? still worried about 2.5" on each side overhang of the ramp maybe too dangerous.

http://www.uhaul.com/Reservations/EquipmentDetail.aspx?model=HO

 

[Dragonrider]

The smaller trailers work for the RS but NOT the RT… the 7' is as small as you want to go for the RT… been there done that, got the "T" shirt.. and WOW - barn doors/ramps can give a bit more clearance for loading, but, now that I've used a ramp, I never want to re-visit the ramp days…

 

[Dragonrider]

Ooops, Forgot - make sure you have stabilizers on the back of the trailer!! If you don't, carry jack stands to use for that. Consider what might happen is the ball is not properly latched, or comes undone….