-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Has anyone removed the Engine? Any handy tips?
- Thread starter Tarzan
- Start date
Tarzan
New member
Please repostopcorn:, WOW that thing really grenaded and went through everything. Wonder if anyone's ever done a big bore kit in one of these things? It would be a good time to go a little over size!!
hyea:
I have’t seen anything online about anyone installing a big bore in one of these. It doesn’t mean someone hasn’t of course, but if the parts are available I bet they aren’t cheap. This Spyder is for my wife, who won’t need xtra power. She isn’t even sure she’s gonna like it. She wants to try though. A couple of our friends ride Spyder’s and she rides on the back of my motorcycle. So she would like to try her own bike. More power to her and I hope she loves it.
Anyway, that’s why I bought this one and I got a very good deal on it since the motor was inoperable. I wrench all my own stuff and like to make stuff work. So that’s a win for her and I.
Also, since there isn’t much at all about working on the internals of these motors on the net , that I Have found anyway, I figured trying to document my progress through this thread and also on the Fb page that I may help someone else who finds themselves looking for help repairing theirs.
Tarzan
New member
More carnage, Transmission gears damaged
So I finally finished cleaning all the engine and transmission parts, in all I have about 16 hours in cleaning everything. And have gotten a good look at almost everything.
I have a pretty good idea what happened to this engine. Obviously from the beginning it was apparent the clutch took some serious abuse causing it to explode. And finding the bearing in the case for the shift drum was destroyed too, I think that somehow the transmission was possibly run on the ragged edge of shift points and maybe the trans was fighting to shift, also trying to hold a gear long enough to reach the shift point. It has one shift fork that is damaged, and three gears that have damage. I don't know much about these Semi-Auto transmissions so I'm just spitballing here. If anyone has a better explanation I'm all ears. So I will be replacing the transmission along with everything else I've already purchased. I know I could have bought a used ebay motor for about $3K, but then wouldn't know what I really had. So parts are adding up, but I'll end up with around $1200 in parts, I think. Plus my labor, which is gonna be worth about $5 per hour.
.
Here's a few more pics for reference.
So I finally finished cleaning all the engine and transmission parts, in all I have about 16 hours in cleaning everything. And have gotten a good look at almost everything.
I have a pretty good idea what happened to this engine. Obviously from the beginning it was apparent the clutch took some serious abuse causing it to explode. And finding the bearing in the case for the shift drum was destroyed too, I think that somehow the transmission was possibly run on the ragged edge of shift points and maybe the trans was fighting to shift, also trying to hold a gear long enough to reach the shift point. It has one shift fork that is damaged, and three gears that have damage. I don't know much about these Semi-Auto transmissions so I'm just spitballing here. If anyone has a better explanation I'm all ears. So I will be replacing the transmission along with everything else I've already purchased. I know I could have bought a used ebay motor for about $3K, but then wouldn't know what I really had. So parts are adding up, but I'll end up with around $1200 in parts, I think. Plus my labor, which is gonna be worth about $5 per hour.
.Here's a few more pics for reference.
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
These SE Transmissions are effectively identical to the manual gearboxes, only with a centrifugal clutch on the SE5's & an oil pressure based hydraulic clutch on the SE6's, and both have flappy paddle operator initiated but computer controlled electro-solenoid activated 'quick-shifters', and a computer triggered 'auto-downshift' as a 'protective action of last resort' in order to avoid operators trying to put too much torque thru too high a gear at low road speeds. :thumbup:
So maybe some of what it sounds like you're surmising isn't really all that likely, but early in the piece many 'new to hi-revving V-twin motors with centrifugal clutches' operators, especially those more used to hi-torque low-revving motors did flog their SE5's by trying to keep & run with their revs waaaayyy too low &/or shifting up waaaayyy too soon!! :yikes:
The SE5 centrifugal clutches might start to engage as soon as you apply throttle, to get you going and let you run at slow speeds, but they aren't really 'fully engaged' until something like 3500 rpm, so those operators trying to idle along at maybe 1,000 rpm in any gear, and especially in any gear higher than First, were/are really doing their clutches a disservice, & that in turn tends to be pretty hard on the oil that everything from the engine thru all of the transmission runs in!! :yikes:
So back in the day, there were quite a few pre-2013 Spyders across the board & those V-twin powered Spyders that continued up until 2016/17 that ended up with clutch issues, so many that in around mid 2013 there was that clutch upgrade that beefed up the internals to withstand that sort of abuse a bit better; but that particular problem wasn't really resolved until the new models came out with the 1330's & their very similar but now 6 speed gearboxes and their oil pressure operated hydraulic clutch that basically engages pretty close to fully as soon as the engine revs anything much higher than idle! And no, you can't readily swap in one of them on a V-twin, altho I guess if you want to throw enough money at it, anything is possible! However, it does sound a lot like you might have scored one of those abused pre 2013/2016 V-twin clutches! :gaah:
Good luck with sorting it all out. But once done, just so long as you instruct any rider to remember to build the revs up over at least 3500 rpm before shifting up, and then ride to always keep the revs up above that, they shouldn't really have any issues &/or further clutch problems. There are quite a few of the V-twin SE5 Spyders out there now with well over 100,000 miles of riding like that with absolutely NO gearbox or clutch issues.
So they can be a good clutch/transmission that will last very well, just so long as riders keep the appropriate oil & regular changes up to them, and they keep those revs up too! hyea:
Again, Good Luck! :cheers:
So maybe some of what it sounds like you're surmising isn't really all that likely, but early in the piece many 'new to hi-revving V-twin motors with centrifugal clutches' operators, especially those more used to hi-torque low-revving motors did flog their SE5's by trying to keep & run with their revs waaaayyy too low &/or shifting up waaaayyy too soon!! :yikes:
The SE5 centrifugal clutches might start to engage as soon as you apply throttle, to get you going and let you run at slow speeds, but they aren't really 'fully engaged' until something like 3500 rpm, so those operators trying to idle along at maybe 1,000 rpm in any gear, and especially in any gear higher than First, were/are really doing their clutches a disservice, & that in turn tends to be pretty hard on the oil that everything from the engine thru all of the transmission runs in!! :yikes:
So back in the day, there were quite a few pre-2013 Spyders across the board & those V-twin powered Spyders that continued up until 2016/17 that ended up with clutch issues, so many that in around mid 2013 there was that clutch upgrade that beefed up the internals to withstand that sort of abuse a bit better; but that particular problem wasn't really resolved until the new models came out with the 1330's & their very similar but now 6 speed gearboxes and their oil pressure operated hydraulic clutch that basically engages pretty close to fully as soon as the engine revs anything much higher than idle! And no, you can't readily swap in one of them on a V-twin, altho I guess if you want to throw enough money at it, anything is possible!
However, it does sound a lot like you might have scored one of those abused pre 2013/2016 V-twin clutches! :gaah: Good luck with sorting it all out. But once done, just so long as you instruct any rider to remember to build the revs up over at least 3500 rpm before shifting up, and then ride to always keep the revs up above that, they shouldn't really have any issues &/or further clutch problems. There are quite a few of the V-twin SE5 Spyders out there now with well over 100,000 miles of riding like that with absolutely NO gearbox or clutch issues.
So they can be a good clutch/transmission that will last very well, just so long as riders keep the appropriate oil & regular changes up to them, and they keep those revs up too! hyea: Again, Good Luck! :cheers:
Last edited:
Coloradodonkey
New member
So Tarzan, what ever happened with your little project?
Similar threads
