Has anyone installed this homelink garage door remote?

[DGoebel]

Having an RT, I just velcro'd one of the normal small Garage door openers under the Safety Card above the dash, it's hardly visible unless you're looking for it.

 

[Lew L]

Having an RT, I just velcro'd one of the normal small Garage door openers under the Safety Card above the dash, it's hardly visible unless you're looking for it.
View attachment 171853

I thought about velcro for a few moments---- just don't trust it to hold up over the bumps and pot holes in our fine and well maintained roads.nojoke

 

[McClendons]

McClendons:

Where did you mount the transmitter and how long of a cable did you order for it?

I put the transmitter off to the riders left, under the little triangular cover that shows when the Trunk is open. It is the side OPPOSITE where the BUDS cable is. There is a good bit of room under the cover, I also put a fuse block in the same location. Makes it very easy to get short cables up to the handlebar and switch panel areas.
I did not order a special length cable, if you order the one with the CAN Am switch it was plenty long for that install. Also would be very easy to splice in additional wire of longer is needed.

Motorcycle Dave is exactly right with modifying one, very easy to do. That said, for my case I would have had to buy a remote transmitter and wanted the Can Am momentary switch. If I bought those it would have been in the ballpark of the mo-door. I'd had there mo-doors, and they have all been excellent with very good range. If I had a spare transmitter, I might have gone the custom approach but would have still wanted the Can Am Switch --- so likely about 1/3 the price

 

[Jetfixer]

I made my own for my 2015 RTL. Go to any used auto parts emporium, (junkyard), and get the Homelink module from a car that has one in the drivers sun visor. They usually have 3 buttons. It will have 2 wires, power and ground. Take it home and hook the power and ground to a 9V battery. Then program it to your garage door opener. (I used the middle button.) Then use a plastic tie-wrap to permanently hold that button down. The switches used in our bikes are made by Carling, and are the Carling Contura style. I used a model that has Off, On, Momentary, since I have another use for it also. If all you want is a door opener, get one that is a Momentary switch only. Mount the Homelink module out of sight somewhere. Connect the ground wire to ground, and the 12V+ wire to the momentary contact of your switch. Run a wire from the switch to your fusebox to the aux unused position. When you press the momentary switch, the 12V will go through the Homelink module. Since the button is already held down by the tie-wrap, your garage door will open!

 

[McClendons]

I put the transmitter off to the riders left, under the little triangular cover that shows when the Trunk is open. It is the side OPPOSITE where the BUDS cable is. There is a good bit of room under the cover, I also put a fuse block in the same location. Makes it very easy to get short cables up to the handlebar and switch panel areas.
I did not order a special length cable, if you order the one with the CAN Am switch it was plenty long for that install. Also would be very easy to splice in additional wire of longer is needed.

Was asked for more detail through message, I placed mine under the cover in the picture. Plenty of room.

 

[Lew L]

View attachment 171881
Was asked for more detail through message, I placed mine under the cover in the picture. Plenty of room.

I put mine there also, plenty of room and easy wire fishing.

 

[Jim&Teresa]

I had installed an AutoSwitch Motorcycle Garage Door Remote Activator AS-7G (got it on ebay). Installed on our 2014 RT Limited when it was relatively new -- installed in July 2014. It has worked well and wires into the bike. I wired this to my fog lamp switch (as the trigger toggle) and when I reach near the garage door, I just toggle the fog light switch and it allows the transmitter to open the door. Works well, but limited range. You need to get close to the garage door. Also, it took some time to wire it in. I like that it is invisible on the bike (tucked under the tupperware) and uses an existing toggle switch to trigger the garage door opening..... It was around $30. I don't know if I would spend that much time on putting one in again....On our Goldwing, I just used double stick tape and put a small garage transmitter in my side case...much easier and lower costs!!

 

[tnhoover]

If you navigate to home on my GPS you end up at the local Police Barracks.

 

[Tyris]

Mine is velcro'ed to the underside of my glovebox, no one ones it's there except for me and, well, all of you now, damn!!!

 

[SpyderChris]

+1 for keychain remote and velcro

 

[campermac]

thanks for that info

 

[nhoj]

If you navigate to home on my GPS you end up at the local Police Barracks.

That is actually a recommended personal security item.... never have an accurate 'home' waypoint programmed on your GPS. Also suggested to prevent track history storage as well.

'Home' on my GPS takes you to the middle of a Lake.

 

[CrashDavis]

I put the transmitter off to the riders left, under the little triangular cover that shows when the Trunk is open. It is the side OPPOSITE where the BUDS cable is. There is a good bit of room under the cover, I also put a fuse block in the same location. Makes it very easy to get short cables up to the handlebar and switch panel areas.
I did not order a special length cable, if you order the one with the CAN Am switch it was plenty long for that install. Also would be very easy to splice in additional wire of longer is needed.

Mine is apart right now putting in stuff. I agree there is room under there but what did you mount the fuse block and the MoDoor to?

 

[McClendons]

Mine is apart right now putting in stuff. I agree there is room under there but what did you mount the fuse block and the MoDoor to?

For the garage remote, I mounted with two sides tape since only need access every couple of years (or more, have never replaced a battery in one). If I recall, I stuck it to the outside (bottom side) edge of the glovebox.

For the fuse block, I found that there is an area under the edge of the windshield that my fuse back slid into. I slid it in, then used 1 zip tie to secure it. Not a beautiful install, but does not move and very easy to remove if I need to add a circuit.

Sorry I do not have pictures.

 

[Dawn]

OK, if this is the wireless one that has the 10 year non replaceable battery I can chime in with my experiences with my 2018 RT Limited.
1. it will not fit in the center spot, that has a round hole not rectangular
2. it will be slightly too deep and bottoms out.
3. it will snap into the rectangular cut-out (with depth modification)

Now let me start off by saying, mine was given to me, so I had zero money invested or lost if I ruined it.

What I did initially, was just add a ring of foam sticky weatherstripping to the opening and leave it sticking up and not snapped down. But I didn't like the cobbled together look and knew it was "this close" to fitting, so I decided to take my chances and modify it. I won't know until later down the road if this works or shorts out in the rain, but I removed the plastic housing around the bottom and added a single layer of duct tape just to keep everything tucked together. I was trying to just shave off the bottom plastic so it would fit for depth, but the sides broke off too, so I made the best of it.

 

[JayBros]

I Velcroed an opener to the inside rear wall of the glove box; has worked fine ever since I bought the Spyder.

 

[ladygadget]

I have a mini opener for our garage door. I keep it in my rider jacket pocket and just press as I'm coming into the driveway.