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Has anyone done this mod????

Motorcycledave

Active member
Howdy Everyone
I have a 2008 GS that is trouble free and has been... with that said I replaced the battery about
3 weeks ago and when I went out to take a ride on Saturday the trike would not start no juice
in the battery even though it was hooked up to a battery tender, checked voltage battery 10.2
power out of the tender 13.5, I have a new junk battery they will be happy to replace yea yea!!!
Now on to the question, to get to the battery first remove the saddle bag on the left side, then
move the the saddle bag mounting bracket that has the left turn signal light attached to it, then
remove all 3 left side panels and after all that the battery is right there under the seat.... what a
STUPID :hun: place to put the battery. All the above takes a lot of time to remove all that stuff
just to get to the battery, now I see some one at BRP came up with the idea of relocating the battery
up front in the trunk where it should have been in the first place.
SO here goes I am going to relocate my battery up front an d want to know if any of you have done that
on their GS/RS models and what did you use for a battery box and what wire did you run from the
back to the front trunk for the power I would think I should go up one size wire so I have little or no loss
in voltage/amps.
What say you ??????
Thanks everyone..
Dave
:)

 
Will you mount it in the Frunk, or cut a hole in it and create spce that only "intrudes inot the frunk a little bit? :dontknow:
Going up a iwre size... :thumbup:
Good Luck! :2thumbs:
 
Hi Bob
No don't want to cut the plastic trunk that would cause water problems in the rain. I have bags on the back so the
slight loss of an area at the bottom of the trunk the size of the battery and a box it is in I feel would be a better choice.
rather than reroute the wires from the back to the front I would just tag onto the wires that connect onto the
battery and run them forward to the trunk.
Dave

Will you mount it in the Frunk, or cut a hole in it and create spce that only "intrudes inot the frunk a little bit? :dontknow:
Going up a iwre size... :thumbup:
Good Luck! :2thumbs:
 
:2thumbs: Now for my next inane question :opps:: Will you be considering any of those super lightweight and compact Lithium style batteries?
 
Curious..!!

considering your misfortune with a faulty battery, how often do you have to deal with the battery. Being a maintenance free battery was probably the reason it is where it is. Sure they did not consider added equipment blocking easy access. I have had our roadster a year now and have not gone to the battery for anything. But anyway..many atv's have battery boxes that you could adapt. Maybe a tupper wear kitchen style could also work. Have not seen any done for battery did see one gas tank added to the frunk. Good luck love to see the outcome...!! :thumbup:
 
Lithium batteries

Lithium Ion batteries ???? I never gave that any thought I may look into that.
I will be going to the SEMA Show in November and that would be the place to
check out the batteries.
Yea I know they put a maintenance free battery in the Spyders but is there anything
that is truly maintenance free :hun: I am a maintenance freek so I would be checking
connections and such anyway about every 90 days or so. I just think the battery should
be in a better place that is easier to get at with out having to dismantle the damn thing.
I will keep you posted and put up photos of the new location.
Dave:)



considering your misfortune with a faulty battery, how often do you have to deal with the battery. Being a maintenance free battery was probably the reason it is where it is. Sure they did not consider added equipment blocking easy access. I have had our roadster a year now and have not gone to the battery for anything. But anyway..many atv's have battery boxes that you could adapt. Maybe a tupper wear kitchen style could also work. Have not seen any done for battery did see one gas tank added to the frunk. Good luck love to see the outcome...!! :thumbup:
 
Um, two panels to get to the battery, not three. Eight bolts and two plastic rivets. I keep hand tools on the machine so if I have a problem on the road I can check my connections.

After you take the panels off a few times its really not bad at all and you can get to pretty much whatever you want to in minutes if you have a drill...

I also went out and found a right angle rechargeable drill for close quarters that is awesome for getting off all the panels. There are several that you just cant get to with a normal drill, including one of the panels to get to the battery.

The hardbags complicate things I know.
 
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Sure quickster, this is the exact one I bought at the local Menards. The only thing I wish it had was an adjustable clutch but if you go easy on the trigger that seems to do the same thing almost. Ive had zero problems doing it this way.

This also comes with two rechargeable batterys, charger, and carrying bag. This stuff was all extra at the ones I looked at anywhere else locally.

These are an expensive tool but invaluable IMO if you work on your own Spyder. Its one of the best tool buys Ive made.


http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...2-volt-right-angle-drill/p-1635419-c-9072.htm
 
Thanks much for the info. I'm a tool junkie and always looking for new things I need. LoL

Carl

Sure quickster, this is the exact one I bought at the local Menards. The only thing I wish it had was an adjustable clutch but if you go easy on the trigger that seems to do the same thing almost. Ive had zero problems doing it this way.

This also comes with two rechargeable batterys, charger, and carrying bag. This stuff was all extra at the ones I looked at anywhere else locally.

These are an expensive tool but invaluable IMO if you work on your own Spyder. Its one of the best tool buys Ive made.


http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...2-volt-right-angle-drill/p-1635419-c-9072.htm
 
Your welcome quickster. Im just passing along info Ive learned from others on this site.

As far as the mod the original poster asked about putting the battery in the frunk... I wouldnt want it there. I keep a little tool kit in there to get to the battery with no problem. Also oil, funnel, brake fluid, different riding gloves, etc and still have room for my fullface helmet when I stop somewhere. This couldnt be done with a battery in there.

Me and many other Spyder riders use this:

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85...TF8&qid=1380147438&sr=1-3&keywords=gearwrench

I also keep this in there along with extra bits:

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-11014-T...47678&sr=1-79&keywords=ratcheting+screwdriver

Sometimes I even throw my rechargeable drill in there but really, if you need more than this stuff then youre gonna need to just go get the trailer or tow truck most likely.
 
Gyro driver...

Thanks much for the info. I'm a tool junkie and always looking for new things I need. LoL

Carl
I usually stay away from "cute" tools but recently I picked up this "Gyro" driver made by Black & Decker to try on the Spyder.

It feels weird using it but after a while its kinda like having the drive tips built into your finger... lol It also has an LED to light up the work.
Now, I use it anytime I start removing panels. Nice thing about it is there is just enough tork with little risk of over doing it.

Gyro.jpg
 
Right angle drill

I got my Right angle drill from my Snap-On salesman, tools are not the problem
bad design is the problem. I just want to make things easy to get at like my motorcycles
the battery on my GoldWing is behind only one plastic panel and I don't need any tools
to take it off.
Dave


Um, two panels to get to the battery, not three. Eight bolts and two plastic rivets. I keep hand tools on the machine so if I have a problem on the road I can check my connections.

After you take the panels off a few times its really not bad at all and you can get to pretty much whatever you want to in minutes if you have a drill...

I also went out and found a right angle rechargeable drill for close quarters that is awesome for getting off all the panels. There are several that you just cant get to with a normal drill, including one of the panels to get to the battery.

The hardbags complicate things I know.
 
For my 2 cents I don't think it would be worth it. Get a good quality battery, make sure the connections are clean and tight, stick it where it is supposed to go and forget it for another 4 or 5 years.
 
On my 13 with the new frame design was the way to neatly mount the battery in the front and yes it is a breeze to get to. Sure it could be done on the older ones but at what frustration level.

The new compact Lithium Ion batteries are alot lighter and smaller so might be easier to get it up front.
 
For my 2 cents I don't think it would be worth it. Get a good quality battery, make sure the connections are clean and tight, stick it where it is supposed to go and forget it for another 4 or 5 years.
:agree: It is not that big a deal. The saddlebag doesn't really need to come off, just the side panel and battery cover as I recall.
 
yes it does

On a GS/RS with Givi bags it is a must that the left bracket come off to get the left panel off. the plastic will not clear the metal round tubing the bag mount is made of.
believe me if it would clear I would not remove it.


UOTE=NancysToy;695320]:agree: It is not that big a deal. The saddlebag doesn't really need to come off, just the side panel and battery cover as I recall.[/QUOTE]
 
I got my Right angle drill from my Snap-On salesman, tools are not the problem
bad design is the problem. I just want to make things easy to get at like my motorcycles
the battery on my GoldWing is behind only one plastic panel and I don't need any tools
to take it off.
Dave
add more de Zeus fasteners no tools panels off 30 sec no big mods add tender leads get a good battery forget about it for a couple years you can't add water to it anyway so why stress it every 90 days
 
Motorcycledave, Id cut a slot right in the panel for easy removal of the panel of the saddlebags if possible.

Ive already drilled two 1 1/8" holes in the same panel youre talking about so I dont have to remove them to get the lower bat wings off. I see no reason to be removing the tail section just to get to the motor for oil changes, etc.
 
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