Has any one found good replacement Spark Plug Wires

[BajaRon]

The OEM plug wires are certainly a weak spot. They seem to work ok until you do something with them, like change a spark plug. They are just not designed to last a long time even if you don't mess with them.

The OEM wires are average 7mm, carbon core, resistance type automotive wires. They do have an added rubberized sleeve (probably a heat shield) over most of their length.

Yesterday, I finally got all the parts I need to start making some custom, killer, high performance spark plug wires for the Spyder. I figured if I'm going to go to the trouble, why not get some real upgrades.

Lamont has a few thousand miles on the test set I made for his RT and they are working great!

I will be making some today with an assortment of components I ordered to see what works best. I should have more information and pictures once I settle on the best component combination.

These kits will use the 8.8mm Accel 300+ Ferro-Spiral Race Wire. This is a big improvement over the carbon core OEM wires. The carbon core breaks down with heat and the electrical charge it carries. Small voids in the carbon develop and spark has to jump these to get to the plug. This soaks up energy, increases the load on the coil, and eventually can reduce voltage to where you get misfiring or no spark at all.

Movement, like changing a spark plug, can also cause a separation in this carbon core. You can't see it, but you'll know it when a cylinder isn't firing or misfiring badly.

The Ferro-Spiral wire is used by racing people because it combines a stronger spark with added electrical interferance suppression. It is actually a metal wire wound around a Ferri-magnetic core. Electrical interference suppression is enhanced over the carbon core wires because EMI and RFI (Electro-Magnetic and Radio-Frequency Interference) are contained not by shielding which breaks down, but by a magnetic field generated by the spark itself.

Plus, with this type of conductor, resistance is reduced giving you a better spark at the plug with the same amount of energy from the coil.

I know this has taken me awhile but I'm almost there. I will keep you posted.

 

[3Willie]

I am anxious to see your results

The OEM plug wires on my Spyder were 8mm so not sure if the original owner had replaced them, but do not think so.

You are correct about the carbon fiber being fairly easy to damage, so looking forward to seeing your finished project. Also curious to see where you found all of your components. If you are planning to sell them, I understand if you do not list all of your resources.

 

[BajaRon]

The OEM plug wires on my Spyder were 8mm so not sure if the original owner had replaced them, but do not think so.

You are correct about the carbon fiber being fairly easy to damage, so looking forward to seeing your finished project. Also curious to see where you found all of your components. If you are planning to sell them, I understand if you do not list all of your resources.

I don't mind listing my sources when I get the chance. The trouble is, I have not found 1 resource with everything needed. I have so far had to purchase parts that I will have to throw away to get other parts I need. Once I get it nailed down I hope to be able to buy bulk. Then I can sell kits if someone wants to cut/crimp their own. But you really should have a good, professional crimping tool to get good connections without damaging the wire or terminal.

 

[Lamonster]

The OEM plug wires on my Spyder were 8mm so not sure if the original owner had replaced them, but do not think so.

You are correct about the carbon fiber being fairly easy to damage, so looking forward to seeing your finished project. Also curious to see where you found all of your components. If you are planning to sell them, I understand if you do not list all of your resources.

Wire


Wire with cover

 

[3Willie]

Picture of OEM Plug wire with the rubber cover removed

I did not put a micrometer on the cable, but here is a photo with the rubber cover removed. Please advise.

 

[BajaRon]

I guess I was a bit generous when I called the OEM wires 7mm. But in the industry I'd say they would be considered 7mm wires. You can't really count the rubberized shielding as that only serves to protect the spark plug wire from heat and probably gives it some stiffness to help the carbon core last longer.

Normally, larger wire is to accomodate a larger electrical core. You need a certain amount of insulation and dielectric material between the electric core and the exterior to prevent leaking voltage.

If I were to put a similar rubberized sleeve on these wires they would be over 10mm. :yikes:

Anyway, I got a set made for Harvey (SpyderPops) today, since he is in Emergency Mode with his stock wires. It took me too long but I wanted to be careful. I'll get faster as I go along. I am pretty happy with them.

I am interested to hear what Harvey thinks about the set he'll get. I am sure he will give me an honest (brutally so) opinion.

 

[bill pitman]

What about this for the outside

I guess I was a bit generous when I called the OEM wires 7mm. But in the industry I'd say they would be considered 7mm wires. You can't really count the rubberized shielding as that only serves to protect the spark plug wire from heat and probably gives it some stiffness to help the carbon core last longer.

Normally, larger wire is to accomodate a larger electrical core. You need a certain amount of insulation and dielectric material between the electric core and the exterior to prevent leaking voltage.

If I were to put a similar rubberized sleeve on these wires they would be over 10mm. :yikes:

Anyway, I got a set made for Harvey (SpyderPops) today, since he is in Emergency Mode with his stock wires. It took me too long but I wanted to be careful. I'll get faster as I go along. I am pretty happy with them.

I am interested to hear what Harvey thinks about the set he'll get. I am sure he will give me an honest (brutally so) opinion.

Hey Ron, you might want to check out this web site. www.zeusinc.com .
I've become interested in your quest and did a Google for" hi-dielectric strength shrink tubing".
Maybe one of their products would work as the protective covering for the high tension wire.
Just a thought..............

bill

 

[cjackg]

Ron, I sure would like to get a set of those wires before I change out the plugs in my RT.

Let me know when you can send them, or I can take a run over there and let you install them for me! :roflblack:

Jack opcorn:

 

[3Willie]

The wire shows 8mm, so thought it probably was.

Wan't going to give anyone the opportunity to tell me what 'assuming' will get you.

I should have checked the size, but just went with the R-8 on the wire to mean an 8mm wire. Also curious about the heat shrink tubing Bill Pitman mentioned and how it will perform.

Always good to see the experts on these subjects help those of us still learning about the Spyders and all of their quirks.:clap:

 

[BajaRon]

Wan't going to give anyone the opportunity to tell me what 'assuming' will get you.

I should have checked the size, but just went with the R-8 on the wire to mean an 8mm wire. Also curious about the heat shrink tubing Bill Pitman mentioned and how it will perform.

Always good to see the experts on these subjects help those of us still learning about the Spyders and all of their quirks.:clap:

The only print I saw on the stock wires was under the tubing. I tried to pull that back some to see if I could expose enough to get the size from the wire. Usually the wire will give the size. R-8 should mean Risistor 8mm. Was that on the inner wire or on the outer shield?

 

[3Willie]

Printing is on the inner wire

I had removed the outer rubber cover to see if I could get any more info including a part number. The photo a few posts earlier shows that info. I had always found that the R stood for resistor and the number was the size just as you described. Either way, I replaced them with Belken 8mm resistor wires then put extra shielding around that in the form of a rubber gas line. This combo went into the larger wire loom. The original wire loom was too small after I had added the extra shielding. Seems to work well so far and if the weather is good tomorrow, I will test it some more.

 

[BajaRon]

Hey Ron, you might want to check out this web site. www.zeusinc.com .
I've become interested in your quest and did a Google for" hi-dielectric strength shrink tubing".
Maybe one of their products would work as the protective covering for the high tension wire.
Just a thought..............

bill

Sounds interesting but would only add cost and labor to the finished product. I'd say the Accel wire I'm using has everything it needs. While adding another layer couldn't hurt, I am doubtful that any additional benefit would be achieved.

 

[BajaRon]

I had removed the outer rubber cover to see if I could get any more info including a part number. The photo a few posts earlier shows that info. I had always found that the R stood for resistor and the number was the size just as you described. Either way, I replaced them with Belken 8mm resistor wires then put extra shielding around that in the form of a rubber gas line. This combo went into the larger wire loom. The original wire loom was too small after I had added the extra shielding. Seems to work well so far and if the weather is good tomorrow, I will test it some more.

Sorry, missed the picture, but I see what you mean. Maybe NGK put the number 8 there so we would assume they were 8mm. I didn't squeeze the wire at all with the calipers. I zeroed it twice and tried it twice with a slip fit and it gave the same exact reading each time. Somebody has their 'Wires Crossed Up' somewhere!

Researching spark plug wires is like trying to get solid information about oil! Everyone has their story, everyone's product is the best and everyone elses stuff is JUNK!. Not much documentation but the numbers fly as if there were charts and data all over the place! They can't all be right!

There may be better wires out there than the Accel +300 racing wire I'm using. But how far do you really want to go? This wire is designed to handle much higher voltages than we will ever see on our Spyder and continuous temperatures above 500 degrees. That should more than do the job, and if not, I'd say you have issues that wires are not going to fix.

One very nice feature I'm finding with this custome set is the spark plug boot is about 1.5" longer than the stock boot. It has a lip at the top and it is very easy to grasp and pull. It is a very high quality silicone that slides on and off like silk yet gives a very good seal in the spark plug.

The stock spark plug boot is nestled down into the plug port to where you have to bend it out away from the engine to get a good grip on it.

There are spark plug boot puller tools out there, but there isnt' much room to work. And I've done damage with those tools as well so they aren't necessarily a magic bullet.

 

[BajaRon]

There has been some question as to whether or not I plan to market these wire sets. The answer is yes. Now that I have the part set I want to use nailed down I have ordered more. As soon as I get these parts in I will start making sets.

I really don't think people are going to want to do this themselves. You'll need a $100+ crimping tool, the only way you can get some of the components you need is to purchase bulk amounts or pay quite a bit for a universal kit and throw most of it away.

You may be able to get oem style components and make a set that way with less trouble. But to get the kind of quality I'm looking for it just isn't sitting there in a set that you can put together.

 

[3Willie]

Good value is always a good idea

Like most people, I do not paying fairly for a premium product. Any idea what your price points will be?

I too like the longer spark plug boot. Makes it easier to get on and off without so much chance of damage.

 

[WackyDan]

Sign me up. Let me know when you have supply and a price Ron.

 

[BajaRon]

I have not sat down and figured the price for these wire sets yet. I plan to sell wire sets and wire sets with plugs. But I think the price will be reasonable. Especially since the alternative is OEM plugs that aren't going to last.

I will let everyone know when I am able to ship some sets out.

 

[Bob Denman]

opcorn:opcorn: Waiting like a Vulture over a limping prairie dog over this one! :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

I read somewhere that the 2012's are going to use the iridium kind.

 

[BajaRon]

I read somewhere that the 2012's are going to use the iridium kind.

I have heard the same thing. Strange, isn't it? I've been trying to convince people to go to the Iridium for some time, (of course I sell them so my opinion is suspect, and I understand that). It's just like me trying to get people to change the transmission filter with EVERY oil change (instead of every other time as recommended by BRP). Again, I sell the filters, but my reason is not to sell more filters, but because if I owned an auto, I would certainly spend the additional $5 per change to A) get that old oil out of the transmission and B) put a fresh new filter in.

Maybe someday, BRP will come around to my way of thinking on that.

The party line from BRP has been that Iridium plugs don't make any difference. And I would tend to agree, to a point. In the first few thousand miles there probably isn't enough difference between the two to bother, especially as the Iridium is more expensive.

But after about 3,000 miles the Iridium starts to pull away. At 10,000 miles you should have changed your stock plugs and the Iridiums are still performing like brand new.

So, the Iridium plugs are actually less expensive when considering just the change interval alone, not to mention you're getting better performance and fuel mileage for several thousand miles compared to the OEM plugs.

And we have not even mentioned the additional maintenance repuired with an OEM plug. I'm really glad the BRP is coming around to my recommendation! hyea: