Ever since I got the Ryker, there to seemed to be a little up and down play on the end of the handle bar. The locking mechanism was binding a little whenever you unlocked it and locked it. I took some liquid graphite, and sprayed it underneath it and worked it back and forth, that made a world of difference as far as binding up goes. There’s a flat head screw that I figured might tighten the locking lever up a little, and take out the play. I found out that it’s ass backwards, you loosen it, and it tightens up the locking lever. All you need to do is turn it just a little, half a turn or full turn, makes a big difference. Play is gone now.
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Handle bar lock
- Thread starter Marr
- Start date
Markubis
Member
Yeah, I think that is why Can Am gave us a flat head screwdriver in our "repair kit"...and I use that term very loosely. I read that the screwdriver is used for tightening or loosening the handlebar lock.
michaelfrmtx
New member
along this same lines, if it seems your bars aren't perfectly straight going down the road, there not.backed mine up today and the bars were about 15 degrees or so to the left when it was going straight down the road.if you look at the rear of the bar your handlebars slide on there's a bolt under a fancy little plastic cover.mine was barely tight.loosened it very easily.bumped the bars clockwise a good bit.after a little trial and error its straight.bolt has lock tight on it now.just poor setup from the dealer I'm sure.
michaelfrmtx
New member
and yes I shoulda took it back to the dealer.but there 100 miles away and it was an easy fix.only 350 miles on it too.my rzr steering wheel was crooked to when I bought it.poor assembly on that one.
canamryder
New member
To Staighten Handlebars (more info)
1.Remove plastic plug>>Pic. 1<< As you can see mines a little tore up. Best to use a small pair of needle nose pliers to remove completely out of channel.
2. Remove hood. Use a 6mm bolt about 1 1/2" long and thread into steering linkage >>Pic. 2<< I wrapped red tape around the bolt so you could spot it in the picture. Looking straight on to under hood it's to front lower right of oil filter canister. DO NOT tighten down bolt, but far enough in for a good grip. This holds the front linkage to wheels straight while twisting your handlebar. If bolt binds up wiggle handlebars a little.
3. Before loosening the brass colored bolt (13mm socket)>>Pic. 3<< Make sure the handlebars are snug up & down. If not you may be missing the washer that goes under the bolt head. Back brass bolt off and straighten bars as you feel needed. Tighten brass bolt to 18 ft/lb. Don't forget to REMOVE 6MM BOLT.
4. It took me two tries to get mine straight. Over shot it the 1st time.
1.Remove plastic plug>>Pic. 1<< As you can see mines a little tore up. Best to use a small pair of needle nose pliers to remove completely out of channel.
2. Remove hood. Use a 6mm bolt about 1 1/2" long and thread into steering linkage >>Pic. 2<< I wrapped red tape around the bolt so you could spot it in the picture. Looking straight on to under hood it's to front lower right of oil filter canister. DO NOT tighten down bolt, but far enough in for a good grip. This holds the front linkage to wheels straight while twisting your handlebar. If bolt binds up wiggle handlebars a little.
3. Before loosening the brass colored bolt (13mm socket)>>Pic. 3<< Make sure the handlebars are snug up & down. If not you may be missing the washer that goes under the bolt head. Back brass bolt off and straighten bars as you feel needed. Tighten brass bolt to 18 ft/lb. Don't forget to REMOVE 6MM BOLT.
4. It took me two tries to get mine straight. Over shot it the 1st time.
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