Hand warmers and fog lamps do not go on??

[mkuszek]

I know these worked because I used them the day before but now both of them quit.
I have a 2015 F3s.
I took the frunk tray out and removed the covers for the fuse boxes.
I have read that it could be a fuse or the shedding relay.
I have testing meter.
What do I do next please???

 

[mkuszek]

Oh ,I just tested all fuses. All good.

 

[Donbmw]

stupid question is the engine running when you are checking these.

 

[Bfromla]

stupid question is the engine running when you are checking these.

:2thumbs: ya fog lights only come on with engine on my 13STL. :dontknow: Heated grips same way, vaguely remember few post of pranks (in group rides) of grips turned on while at a stop. Lil too warm when ready to leave:roflblack:

 

[mkuszek]

I checked the continuity of the fuses with the engine off. All good.
I had the engine on and running/driving last night no heat or fogs.
A day before they heaters and fogs worked perfectly.
I just went to the dealer and bought a 23.00 Shedder relay as some said it was that.
It was not. I plugged in the new relay and no heat or fogs with the engine running even thou the push button stayed depressed and lit up.

 

[Donbmw]

Don't have access to a wiring diagram for 2015 only 2010 RT will have to look. New to these machines. Have surprised what only works with the engine running and what i would think would only work with engine not running. The Electric opener for the Frunk only working with the engine running. To me this should only work when the engine is not running.

 

[fatboy]

that is not electric its a cable

 

[Donbmw]

It is both on a 2010 RT Electric part is the same switch and the parking brake. Forward part of switch is parking brake on and off. the aft part of switch is Frunk release actuator. Manual cable is by pushing key switch down and turn left.

 

[Donbmw]

I checked the continuity of the fuses with the engine off. All good.
I had the engine on and running/driving last night no heat or fogs.
A day before they heaters and fogs worked perfectly.
I just went to the dealer and bought a 23.00 Shedder relay as some said it was that.
It was not. I plugged in the new relay and no heat or fogs with the engine running even thou the push button stayed depressed and lit up.

Just was looking a the wiring diagram for my 2010 there are at least 8 items using the same 20 amp fuse. There is a 40 amp main fuse for accessories. Is everything else working. the only thing i see that can be the problem is the ground for relay if you don't hear or fell it working, heated grips and fog lights or a problem with the switches.

 

[fatboy]

he has a 2015 f3s

 

[jiffy]

I know this my sound odd. Does the Horn Work with the Spyder running. If so then the fuse that feeds the horn, shedding relay, and Aux. lights is good. If not check J2 and F5 in the Right Fuse Box.

 

[mkuszek]

Yes horn works.
I am going to try to pull out every fuse flip them and put them back in next.

 

[jiffy]

Heated Grips (R5) and Accessory Lighting(R4) both have relays in the Left Fuse Box. If the horn works the fuses are good. The shedding relay is next in the circuit after the fuse and you already replaced it . The Grip and Acc. Lighting Relays are next in the circuit.

 

[mkuszek]

Is there a way to test those relays?

 

[jiffy]

Yes. It may be helpful to watch a video or two on youtube about testing relays. Relays all have a control circuit and a high amperage circuit. All the terminals are numbered. 85 and 86 are low current control voltage. 30 is common output. 87 is normal open. 87a is normal closed. Some relays no not have 87a others do not use 87a. You will have one of each. Pay attention to the writing on the relay top and reinstall with the same oreintation. 87a, 87, and 30 are the load (High Current)circuit terminals. 85 and 86 can be tested with the ohm scale of your multimeter for continuity. They are a complete circuit or not. If not bad relay. The 87 and 30 circuit has to closed by energizing the 85, 86 circuit. If this is confusing please watch videos on youtube. Testing a relay. I hope this helps its a little confusing.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Is there a way to test those relays?

It would be well worth your $30 or so to get the service manual. The best place to go is www.canammanuals.com.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Yes horn works.
I am going to try to pull out every fuse flip them and put them back in next.

Since the horn works the fuse is NOT the problem. The load shedding relay is. Make sure it works correctly by testing on the bench. If it's good then you have a wiring problem, or worse, a cluster problem. The load shedding relay is activated by the ground side being completed through the cluster when the engine is running.

 

[mkuszek]

Well I replaced the shedding relay with a new one from the dealership. No change
I figures this was going to be a big pain in my F3s............
What are you calling the "cluster"?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Well I replaced the shedding relay with a new one from the dealership. No change
I figures this was going to be a big pain in my F3s............
What are you calling the "cluster"?

Too bad the relay didn't fix it. The cluster is the instrument group, the speedo, tach, gauges, etc. It's a one piece unit and has its own processor that communicates with the other processors like the Engine Control Module, Vehicle Stability System, etc. via CANbus.