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Grounding Question

I am installing a trailerGas Tank.jpg harness on a 2014 RTL. I ran the hot to alternator terminal, and trying to find a do-able place to ground in the mid part of the bike. Most stuff is plastic or brass threads in plastic. Not sure this is kosher or not, but the most convenient and nearest place to the end of the ground wire is either on a bolt that bolts the gas tank to the frame , or there is a stud at the top rear left side on gas tank, that I could put connector on, and a nut.
Trying to get this all buttoned up and need some opinions.
Check the attached picture of where I am talking about.
 
Just saying, you probably shouldn't run anything to the alternator. Especially without an inline fuse. I would suggest to wire into the rear lamp harness if anything. No insult intended but maybe you should seek the advice of a qualified tech to do this.


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Grounding....

First off...if you go to the alternator you may blow out all the lights...better go to the battery or other power wire in the harness. As for grounding any solid frame bolt will do but if you go to the battery do it there. Most trailer lights wire into the existing lights at the rear of the spyder...:thumbup:
 
Power lead on harness already has an inline removable fuse built in. Friend of mine which is another Spyder owner made the suggestion to run it off of the alternator. I guess that is how he has his set up.

Just saying, you probably shouldn't run anything to the alternator. Especially without an inline fuse. I would suggest to wire into the rear lamp harness if anything. No insult intended but maybe you should seek the advice of a qualified tech to do this.


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I am not concerned with the rear lights on the bike, they are already hooked up to the harness. This is a Big Bike Parts Plug-n-Play Harness. I had it on my 2010 RT , installed it on there and took it off to install on my 2014 RTL. Only problem is that on the 2010 the power and ground wire reached the battery because it was under the seat. Now that the battery is in the front, those two wires don't go any further than the center of the bike. Just trying to make it easier on installing those two wires. Took battery out already and all the tupperware on the left side, but finding an easy way to route the rest of the way to the front is very crowded, and with the skid plate on the bottom, not so easy getting from underneath to see what you are doing. If this is not the right way to go then I guess I will just have to find a way of getting them up front. Don't want to blow something, but seeing that the hot wire has a fuseable link, I assumed it would be okay.

First off...if you go to the alternator you may blow out all the lights...better go to the battery or other power wire in the harness. As for grounding any solid frame bolt will do but if you go to the battery do it there. Most trailer lights wire into the existing lights at the rear of the spyder...:thumbup:
 
I am not concerned with the rear lights on the bike, they are already hooked up to the harness. This is a Big Bike Parts Plug-n-Play Harness. I had it on my 2010 RT , installed it on there and took it off to install on my 2014 RTL. Only problem is that on the 2010 the power and ground wire reached the battery because it was under the seat. Now that the battery is in the front, those two wires don't go any further than the center of the bike. Just trying to make it easier on installing those two wires. Took battery out already and all the tupperware on the left side, but finding an easy way to route the rest of the way to the front is very crowded, and with the skid plate on the bottom, not so easy getting from underneath to see what you are doing. If this is not the right way to go then I guess I will just have to find a way of getting them up front. Don't want to blow something, but seeing that the hot wire has a fuseable link, I assumed it would be okay.

If ur trailer operates with LED lamps, AND you have not made the rear trunk power plug all time powered by switching the fuse, you could easily pickup power and ground there. If you are creative in your wire adapter pigtails, you would not even cut the harness in that location.
 
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