The specified alignment procedure is to first carefully center the steering. Then jack up the Spyder so the suspension is unloaded, clamp a couple of pieces of 7" long strap to the frame, and then to an 8' piece of aluminum angle hung beneath the Spyder. The aluminum is marked at the center, which is aligned with the a spot on the frame (wheel axis). A magnetic laser level is attached to the rotor (bolted down with spacers), and measurements are made to the laser line from the angle at each end mark. Both sides are done, and the measurements totalled at each end. the rear measurement is subtracted from the front. That number is compared to the spec, which is -10 mm ± 0.5 mm (or -10.5 mm ± 0.5 mm, depending on where you look in the shop manual).
:agree::agree::agree: In addition, if the handlebars were not properly and carefully centered when they did the zero, it would be just as bad.
This is done by centering the steering, hooking the Spyder up to the computer, and using the BUDS software (that only the authorized dealer has access to) to zero the steering angle sensor and the steering torque sensor.
I would not do it, although for a quick alignment test you can lay straightedges or straight 2x4s next to the front tires, and measure between them, front and back. The adjustment you are talking about will do nothing but make things worse if your sensor adjustment is the problem...and if you adjust the tie-rod, you will need to have the sensors zeroed anyway.
