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got a code today

Dar

New member
P1172 code. Searched but found no info for this code. Anyone care to share the meaning. Bike died twice while slowing for stops. But started right back up with a the start button while still rolling. Seem like it had a rough idle. 2010 RT manual 14k miles. Had problem when new with dying nit that was different. Had to replace right hand wiring cluster for that one. Thanks
 
P1172 code. Searched but found no info for this code. Anyone care to share the meaning. Bike died twice while slowing for stops. But started right back up with a the start button while still rolling. Seem like it had a rough idle. 2010 RT manual 14k miles. Had problem when new with dying nit that was different. Had to replace right hand wiring cluster for that one. Thanks

From the 2010/2011 Service Manual:

Description: System too lean bank 1
Possible cause: Injection and fuel supply system
Service action: Check fuel pressure regulator
 
One of the most common causes of a cylinder running lean is water droplets in the injectors. I'd run some Marine Stabil, Seafoam, or Startron through it, to see if it helps. Sometimes the system just "coughs" and you can get a stray code. Unless there are associated problems or the condition repeats or continues, these are not cause for worry. You didn't mention what caused you to look for a fault code?

P.S. I didn't look up the code, so I guess this advice is null and void if it was a rich cylinder. Common cause of that is a bad spark plug or plug wire (or both). It can happen as a glitch quite easily, too. If it persists, or the Spyder runs badly, look for spark jump at the wires in a dark room...or listen for the arcing. Plugs seldom foul or misfire on their own, although some 2010 RT's had plug problems as a result of hot restart issues.
 
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From the 2010/2011 Service Manual:

Description: System too lean bank 1[/
Possible cause: Injection and fuel supply system
Service action: Check fuel pressure regulator


Too lean is code P1171

Code P1172 is TOO RICH bank 1 found on page 292 of the 2010 Roadster Shop Manual for a RT




-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>
 
P1172

Interesting that I would go here and find your message. I just registered so that I could post a big thank you to all of the Spyder Lovers who help out on this site.
My 2011 RT LTD. was showing engine warning light and would go into limp home mode sometimes, also would idle rough and stall. I started reading this site and found out about the vaccuum hose problem. I also found out about the ground wire (not able to tighten because the nut is under the covers) problem.
Last night I tightened up the ground wire by prying up on the wire end to stop the nut from turning. (Idea from this site as well) I got it tight. Went for a drive, still had error warnings.
Removed most of the plastic on LH side and found that both of my vaccuum lines are cracked badly!!
I will install new tonight and strongly believe the problem will be solved. By the way I also found out how to check error codes on this site and mine was P1172.
Thanks again to everyone who helps on this site. l think you might have the same problem.
Wayne
 
Wayne did the new lines take care of the problem? How many miles on your spyder?

Sent from my HTC PH39100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Problem is gone

Yes,
I found some 1/8" reinforced fuel line, (Hope it will last longer and not crack) was careful to cut to same length as old ones, pushed them on, put her back together and went for a drive. Idle is fixed, no stalling and no warnings.
Now I just need advice on how to clear the code in the dash.
The info I found on Spyder Lovers saved me a lot of grief!!
My servicing dealer is great but also 150 KM away. My only alternative would have been to load it on a trailer, take it there and make a second trip a couple days later to pick up.
the hose cost 89 cents. (My time is free!!)
Dar, I hope you can also get your problem soved.
Wayne
 
Yes,
I found some 1/8" reinforced fuel line, (Hope it will last longer and not crack) was careful to cut to same length as old ones, pushed them on, put her back together and went for a drive. Idle is fixed, no stalling and no warnings.
Now I just need advice on how to clear the code in the dash.
The info I found on Spyder Lovers saved me a lot of grief!!
My servicing dealer is great but also 150 KM away. My only alternative would have been to load it on a trailer, take it there and make a second trip a couple days later to pick up.
the hose cost 89 cents. (My time is free!!)
Dar, I hope you can also get your problem soved.
Wayne
Fuel line won't last (and may collapse under vacuum). I suggest that you pick up some vacuum hose and replace them permanently in the near future. Otherwise you will likely suffer the same fate again a bit farther down the road.
 
Fuel line won't last (and may collapse under vacuum). I suggest that you pick up some vacuum hose and replace them permanently in the near future. Otherwise you will likely suffer the same fate again a bit farther down the road.

The reinforced line he used sounds similar to what we used on our Ultralight motors and its some tough stuff. Really doubt it will ever collapse. The OEM stuff is very soft and pliable...at least the ones on mine are.
 
The reinforced line he used sounds similar to what we used on our Ultralight motors and its some tough stuff. Really doubt it will ever collapse. The OEM stuff is very soft and pliable...at least the ones on mine are.

I wonder if it's similar also with the gas and vacuum hoses used on the air cooled VWs, They used the same hoses for both purposes...:dontknow:
 
Vacuum hoses usually aren't reinforced...just thicker wall. The reinforced hoses should work...if you can get a good seal. Sometimes they are too hard to seal to the fitting and too rough to hold vacuum. The plain fuel hoses, and especially the windshield washer hoses, are too darned flimsy. They often collapse under the combination of heat and vacuum. They are also prone to cracking and hardening.
 
update

Just replaced both lines. Back hose looked ok. Front hose was all cracked up. Well still rough running will sit and runfor about 20 seconds then die. If you pinch off either hose it will die at that moment, so I guess all associated stuff pertaining to the lines are working. Maybe the front lug could have fouled out due to rich conditions? Bank 1 is front cylinder? Any thoughts, input. Thanks all for help so far. Also almost forgot. I also added about 1/2 can of seafoam to a full tank of gas.
 
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