Gonna give them a try.

[adlereins]

ray: After reading here ( a lot) and elsewhere (some) I have come to the conclusion that my 2012 RT has a bad purge valve. Stalling on take off; surging idle; loss of power occasionally; etc, etc. Battery OK, Drained gas tank & put in fresh fuel, checked fuses. So I checked with my local dealer, B&B Cycles in Victorville, CA. The service manager is going to order the valve and replace it this Friday May 6, 2016. If that doesn't cure problem, then BUDS and trouble shooting at $80 per hr. It should be noted that there were no codes thrown and no orange screens at all. Shop said factory trained Spyder tech and no, I didn't ask for certificate. (I'm trusting lol) I'm actually hoping for a good, if not great, experience from this dealer. Would be very handy for people traveling to Lost Wages from SoCal. I'll keep you posted.

Allen B.

 

[BajaRon]

Or, you can just get rid of the entire evap system for about the same price. Eliminates all possibility of future issues and no downsides.

 

[adlereins]

Or, you can just get rid of the entire evap system for about the same price. Eliminates all possibility of future issues and no downsides.

Any videos on doing just that?
never mind, just looked and nope.

 

[derrill]

Had the same problem on a 2013 RT . Dealer changed purge valve and no more problems.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[DrewNJ]

If you want to test it yourself it's pretty simple to clamp off the hose at the purge and see if your symptoms improve. Then you can decide whether it's worth replacing or blocking off permanently.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Chupaca]

Try this..

You tube can am spyder canisterectomy and you will find video on how it is done. You can search it here as well some one did show the job....:thumbup:

 

[adlereins]

You tube can am spyder canisterectomy and you will find video on how it is done. You can search it here as well some one did show the job....:thumbup:

Thanks! There is a great vid on youtube!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKujdUHh4iM
Thanks again!

 

[adlereins]

Thanks

OK, I'm fairly confident in being able to do the complete canisterectomy and I know I can replace purge valve myself ($49 + shipping), but I am going to take to dealer anyway just in case. As that is $108 parts and labor, it's only ~ $50 to me for the dealer to do it. On the plus side the dealer will warrant work. If it DOESN'T work, at least it is already at the dealer for BUDS troubleshooting. Wish me luck :shocked:

Allen B.

 

[adlereins]

Step by step

Dealer (B&B Cycles) very helpful. I finally tackled it myself. First things first, drained gas tank & refilled with 2qts non-ethanol fuel & filled tank with fresh gas. Didn't work. Replaced surge valve (now bleed valve). Thought it worked but no. Threw the 2 codes (finally) that have been mentioned here, P0106 & P 2279. It didn't throw codes before so maybe I had more than one problem. Anyway, looked up codes and took tupperware off left side this time. Got flashlight and peered into the innards. Lo and behold, front hose from map sensor was not only cracked but just hanging on by a little piece!!! Went to NAPA and ordered silicon hose: 6 feet for ~$15. Gonna cut up two spares for just in case. My thanks to all the posters before me that have had this problem and posted solutions. Hose will be here tamally and that should do it. At least now I have no fear of removing tupperware and working on the insides. Thanks to all!!!!!

 

[Fat Baxter]

FWIW, I did a canisterectomy on my '99 BMW RT several years ago. Greatly simplified the plumbing, but after a long day's ride, the garage smelled of gasoline. That carbon-filled canister was there for a reason.