• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Going to a car tire

As a tire guy i can tell you 215x60R15 is a performance downgrade that would be noticeable at highway speeds & exit ramps.

I guess that would probably be true if you were talking about using the same model tire with only a change in size. But if you upgrade to a significantly higher UTQG rated tire, the one centimeter difference in width would probably be overcome by the higher quality construction and materials used in the new tire.

I run a 215-60-15 Michelin hyrdoedge, and I can personally attest that it performs better than the kenda, in every single aspect of riding, including highway speeds, where it balloons significantly less. Even treadwear, which we all know is a shortcoming of the kenda.
 
Had the Kumho Ecsta AST installed this morning and we went for a 300 mile ride that included the million dollar hi way (550) and my wife ask if I did something to make it handle better. I asked her in what way was it better. She said it doesn't squirm like it was in curves and it rides softer.
I can understand the 4ply reducing the squirm, but riding softer :dontknow:

I told her the only difference is the rear tire.

Now all I need to get is better mileage out of it (anything better than 6000) and I will be a very very happy :f_spider: owner :rolleyes:
 
Acceptable or not that is about the norm for OEM. I have 8500 miles on mine and it's down to the wear bars but I think I can make it until I have the 9300 mile service done and then I'll have the dealer mount another Kenda OEM while it's in for routine service. Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.


I rolled the dice and rode my bike home(2000km). I was on a road trip and no where near home when I first noticed my tire. Rear tire is now worn down in the middle almost like a racing slick(no wear bars or noticable tread left). I ran 28psi in the rear from the time I got the bike. Mileage now at 92k(aprox 5700miles) and I can't get in at my dealer for replacement until the 17th. I will for sure go with the Kuma....or another but deffinetly no more Kenda's.

 
Thailand? Seriously?

As someone already pointed out, the Kenda is made in China. There are probably some car tires made in the U.S. that will hopefully fit the Spyder. That is your call.

My trailer tires for my toy hauler are also made in Thailand. They are the best ten ply tires currently on the market. I would have bought the American made Goodyears if they even offered a ten ply. The Goodyears have also earned a pretty bad reputation among those with trailers for premature wear and failure. As much as I try to buy U.S. made product, sometimes it makes more sense to buy the best product. Not every product made overseas is crap. Oh...and those tires I bought were more expensive than the Goodyears even in the same ply count.
 
Couple of things I noticed from ryders I have met. Some don't know which is the wear bar and which is the rain blocks. Shoddy dealers have convinced them they needed new tires before they really did. I ryde hard and just now changed my oem Kenda at 20,000 miles. I run a bit low on the air pressure so to get full contact at speeds and even wear. The other factor is the actual road construction and roads traveled, the weather and tire temps reached while ryding. There is the model roadster and the ryder. The 14's I feel have the problem that many are upgrading and are used to cranking down to get to the torque range at higher rpms. The increased horse power and the low end torque is wearing the tires out quicker and they feel they got a bad batch as well. I don't throw the milk out because the sell by date has passed, I do when it comes out like cottage cheese...:roflblack: Jmo


I know which is the rain blocks & wear blocks. I am through the rain blocks and well into the wear blocks at 4750 miles. I have been lowering pressure to try to get more life out of them. But how low can I go? Either way no change the center still wears fast. It has nothing to do with the 14 RT and the 1330 engine, I am on my ST-L and I feel I will be lucky to see 6500 miles out of the oem tire.
 
We have also been told by BRP techs that they got a bad batch of tires.

I have burned through many tires in my 75,000 miles on three spyders, a few of the OEM Kenda, some of the Kumhos, a couple of the Maxxis Vectras, and am now using the Toyo Proxes, which is also discontinued like the Kumho. The Kumhos were OK, the Maxxis was better, the Toyo Proxes was the best for traction and performance. I bought six of them when I learned they were discontinued. BajaRon likes this one as well, comes in the OEM size. I would not hesitate to again run the Maxxis Vectra, that is what I have on my original 2008 #006 Spyder right now.

It all depends on what your criteria is - longevity, cost, traction, wet pavement performance, speed rating, sidewall flex, what do YOU want? I know that I want a tire that is going to hold together at 100+ MPH, one that is going to grip the road when it is wet, one that lasts longer than the latest POS Kenda, one that isn't going to pop me $150 each time it is bald. The Kumho is getting tough to find, I know riders like this one but it is only fair at best. It IS perfectly OK to run a different size, preferably as close to stock diameter as possible. I have made many posts on what is acceptable size-wize, as have many others. I run my spyders long and hard, limit seeker for sure, and I know my nanny well, with stock and non-stock tires.

Bottom line, the latest Kenda rear tires are not lasting as long as the previous ones, and I REFUSE to replace the rear tire every time the oil is changed!
 
THIS IS THE REASON FOR THE KENDA'S

Acceptable or not that is about the norm for OEM. I have 8500 miles on mine and it's down to the wear bars but I think I can make it until I have the 9300 mile service done and then I'll have the dealer mount another Kenda OEM while it's in for routine service. Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.
:gaah:.....To Mr. Findley....and anyone else who wants to know .....BRP made a deal with KENDA because they had to.....BRP was extremely short on funds ( if it weren't for Mitt Romney the Spyder never would have been built in case you didn't know this )......Kenda was willing to accommodate the needs of BRP in EXCHANGE for certain benefits that were going to prove financially lucrative to KENDA down the road .......LIKE WHAT.....how's this ...A TOTAL LOCK ON THE SALES OF SPYDER TIRES ......did you know you can buy all sorts of KENDA tires from all sorts of places ....But not Spyder tires.....you can only buy them from a BRP DEALER.......Pretty neat for KENDA :hun:..........I hope this answers you question Mr Findley...........you didn't think it was their HIGH QUALITY ...did you ???? ...:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.......................................Mikeguyver :thumbup:
 
What..!!

So what I'm seeing is : BRP, who is involved in manufacturing some of the finest airplanes, snowmobiles, personal watercrafts, off road 4 by's was on it's last leg when they decided to make the roadster (spyder). Along came Mitt Romney who brokered a deal with Kenda to scratch "For motorcycle use" on a bunch of rejected 2 ply auto tires that only brp could sell at an outrageous prices saving their butts. I must assume they also saved a bundle by not involving any engineers or research and development people in the whole tires needed cause skis don't work thing. All this so a small group of spyder ryders can spend a disproportionate amount of time online :cus: ing and moaning about their tires...:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: All in fun...
 
So what I'm seeing is : BRP, who is involved in manufacturing some of the finest airplanes, snowmobiles, personal watercrafts, off road 4 by's was on it's last leg when they decided to make the roadster (spyder). Along came Mitt Romney who brokered a deal with Kenda to scratch "For motorcycle use" on a bunch of rejected 2 ply auto tires that only brp could sell at an outrageous prices saving their butts. I must assume they also saved a bundle by not involving any engineers or research and development people in the whole tires needed cause skis don't work thing. All this so a small group of spyder ryders can spend a disproportionate amount of time online :cus: ing and moaning about their tires...:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: All in fun...

Romney_zps06d9d235.jpg
 
Car tire is on

Finally had a car tire mounted on the Spyder. WOW. What an improvement in the handling. Sticks to the curves like it was glued there. No more swishy rear in the turns. Don't know about the mileage yet. Too soon to tell. Will keep you posted.

Also had the Sirius antenna moved to the outside of the trunk. Totally solved the missed signal.
All is good.
 
Not to argue, just curios.

What would be the performance downgrade?

with a taller sidewall you will have more flex in the tire, performance comes from a smaller sidewall which will give a quicker
response time on turns and more control on highway.
A taller sidewall tire will usually be a higher mileage & softer ride. Right now i have a littler over 3,100 on my tires & they
still have very high tread, i have a dill digital tread depth gauge that i will measure them out when i need to.

As for those who are saying kenda is made in china, it's not just country of manufacture as much as company of manufacture, i do very very very little kenda car tires but have no problems with the few we sell & this is the first set i
have had on a bike so it will be a few thousand miles more until i know if they are any good.
al
 
Last edited:
with a taller sidewall you will have more flex in the tire, performance comes from a smaller sidewall which will give a quicker
response time on turns and more control on highway.
A taller sidewall tire will usually be a higher mileage & softer ride. Right now i have a littler over 3,100 on my tires & they
still have very high tread, i have a dill digital tread depth gauge that i will measure them out when i need to.

As for those who are saying kenda is made in china, it's not just country of manufacture as much as company of manufacture, i do very very very little kenda car tires but have no problems with the few we sell & this is the first set i
have had on a bike so it will be a few thousand miles more until i know if they are any good.
al

The tire in question doesn't have any appreciable difference in sidewall height. If it did the rolling circumference would be different. The higher aspect ratio relates the fact that it has a smaller section width by 10 mm. Most would assume that a smaller section width results in less tread width as well, but that is not always true either. That must be evaluated independently for every design.
Also, a taller sidewall composed of more, or stiffer plies, can outperform a lower more flexible sidewall.
Tires are quite often very different between front and rear on a vehicle for various reasons. The spyder is proof of this in itself. Different suspension designs, setups, and functions all matter. The front tires steer, the rear tire propels, all are used for braking. The suspension is quite different front to rear as well.
Yes, different designs may alter the handling characteristics... for better or worse. I am certain the designers did not coordinate with the tire manufacturer to produce an ultimate match-up.
The only experimentation I advise against is variation on the same axle. Just be aware of potential side effects of new tire choices and work up to extreme handling situations to evaluate your new set-up. If you heed the advice of others who have experimented before you, you may be pleasantly surprised.
 
Back
Top