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Go past 600 miles without changing oil?

poolratt

New member
Just called my dealer today to set up my 600 mile service and they told me it would be two weeks before they could fit me in:( I told them the way I'm putting on miles I'll have to park it. They said no problem going over 600 miles becuase the break-in oil is synthetic:lecturef_smilie: I looked around for other dealers and there are none within 180 miles as I live in the sticks. Labor day is coming up and it sure would be nice to take the girfriend for a tour:2thumbs:.I don't have any problem performing the 600 mile service myself but I have herd that if this is not done by an authorized dealer and signed off on in your manual your warranty could be voided:yikes: The dealer told me today that they actualy send a copy of the diagnostic report to BRP! So what do you guys and gals think I should do? Your expert opinions are much appreciated:D
 
I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Change your own oil and keep a record of it and go for a ride. :doorag:
 
I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Change your own oil and keep a record of it and go for a ride. :doorag:
:agree: Take it in to your dealer to download BUDS, check for updates, and adjust the belt and lube the suspension, if you are not comfortable with that. That, along with your oil change, will fulfill any warranty obligations and will surely satisfy BRP and the dealer. Don't forget to clean the tank strainer at that first oil change!
 
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my dealer says go 1,000 miles

My dealer told me to go 1,000 miles before the first service.:dontknow: Most of the people that replied to me said it should be ok.
 
:agree: Take it in to your dealer to download BUDS, check for updates, and adjust the belt and lube the suspension, if you are not comfortable with that. That, along with your oil change, will fulfill any warranty obligations and will surely satisfy BRP and the dealer. Don't forget to clean the tank strainer at that first oil change!
OK Scotty, you have my attention, What Tank Strainer ???
 
OK Scotty, you have my attention, What Tank Strainer ???
There is a strainer assembly in the bottom of the oil tank, attached to the pump supply hose. It needs to be inspected and cleaned at the first service, and periodically thereafter.
 
if you can change your own oil, I would do it. best to get all the initial oil and any slight metal filings if any from break in out. that is the short term thing then have dealer do the rest of the 600 mile when you can.

also use good oil :doorag:

I am using full synth 5W20 from Motul 300V. love their stuff :2thumbs: they EXCEED all the oil standards with the 300V.

i don't trust the can-am stuff as they don't tell you what the grade of oil is, its made for water skidoos and bikes... ect
 
i don't trust the can-am stuff as they don't tell you what the grade of oil is, its made for water skidoos and bikes... ect

BuRP oil is a semi or para-synthetic and probably better during early running than a full synthetic to make sure the rings and bearings are fully happy and seated. Running a full synthetic oil can actually not allow full bedding and sealing of an engine in early operation. Using a full sythetic early in the life of an engine can actually hurt the engines efficency and sealing characteristics and prevent the certain amount of wearing in that engines should experience during their normal lifetime.

Yup that's right synthetic lubricants are that good they prevent necessary wear to make things right inside a normal engine. We all mean well by putting that best synthetic lube in an engine but it may indeed be counter productive if the timing of using it is not right. What is the right time to use it? There are many different thoughts on this subject for sure! With a race engine just a couple of pulls on the dyno may be right but race engines are built with better tolerances and wider clearances than a street engine. I have always used a 4 or 5 thousand mile figure for street engines and it has seemed to work just fine but again that is just my thought.

Now the great revelation! I don't use synthetic oils because they charge so much for them and really in a street engine the major advantage to a synthetic oil is only in the fact that it is great for engines that make short trips around a given small area and may never fully warmup. It is super to prevent the build up of contaminents and acid buildup in vehicles that have operating conditions like the above mentioned. Para-synthetics should cost less (except when you buy them from BuRP) and if you go over 9 miles the oil should get hot enough to free itself from moistures and suspend any contaminents to be filtered off. Para-synthetics represent the only way I know to get the advantages of full sythetics without the prices you have to pay for them. Now if there is a cheaper para-synthetic than BuRP's available that meats the standards they have set I don't know? If there is a full synthetic (there are many) in the same price range as OEM oil provided then after an unknown amount of miles it might be smarter to switch to the full synthetic for the same or similar price range.

Spent thirty years lubricating everything from expensive commercial and industrial equipment to sprint and Nascar engines and I have learned everything I know the HARD and EXPENSIVE way. I learned many years ago synthetic oils and lubricants are good but are only necessary when there is nothing else cheaper that will work just as good. The Old Tribologist! Bill
 
Just called my dealer today to set up my 600 mile service and they told me it would be two weeks before they could fit me in:( I told them the way I'm putting on miles I'll have to park it. They said no problem going over 600 miles becuase the break-in oil is synthetic:lecturef_smilie: I looked around for other dealers and there are none within 180 miles as I live in the sticks. Labor day is coming up and it sure would be nice to take the girfriend for a tour:2thumbs:.I don't have any problem performing the 600 mile service myself but I have herd that if this is not done by an authorized dealer and signed off on in your manual your warranty could be voided:yikes: The dealer told me today that they actualy send a copy of the diagnostic report to BRP! So what do you guys and gals think I should do? Your expert opinions are much appreciated:D


hmmmmmm, lets see, you just spent approx 25K or more on a great bike with the dealer and they
can't fit you in. Yikes:gaah:. I would call the owner and mention you were gonna refer a friend
to his shop to buy a bike, but now with a two week delay on getting an oil change your friend is
considering another dealership. Seriously during break in period you wanna change the oil
to prevent other issues down the road. Now if your gonna sell this in two years and don't care
for about if you mess up the longevity of the machine. Then take your dealers advice. If you
sell it local, then they benefit when it is out of warranty for the next paying customer. Heck
maybe that's why they have a 2 week wait.

Oh and one more thing I was the one who incorrectly said in another post it could void
your warranty. That is false, it only came with a warning , and a statement "should be
inspected by an authorized can-am dealer"

BuRP oil is a semi or para-synthetic and probably better during early running than a full synthetic to make sure the rings and bearings are fully happy and seated. Running a full synthetic oil can actually not allow full bedding and sealing of an engine in early operation. Using a full sythetic early in the life of an engine can actually hurt the engines efficency and sealing characteristics and prevent the certain amount of wearing in that engines should experience during their normal lifetime.

Yup that's right synthetic lubricants are that good they prevent necessary wear to make things right inside a normal engine. We all mean well by putting that best synthetic lube in an engine but it may indeed be counter productive if the timing of using it is not right. What is the right time to use it? There are many different thoughts on this subject for sure! With a race engine just a couple of pulls on the dyno may be right but race engines are built with better tolerances and wider clearances than a street engine. I have always used a 4 or 5 thousand mile figure for street engines and it has seemed to work just fine but again that is just my thought.

Now the great revelation! I don't use synthetic oils because they charge so much for them and really in a street engine the major advantage to a synthetic oil is only in the fact that it is great for engines that make short trips around a given small area and may never fully warmup. It is super to prevent the build up of contaminents and acid buildup in vehicles that have operating conditions like the above mentioned. Para-synthetics should cost less (except when you buy them from BuRP) and if you go over 9 miles the oil should get hot enough to free itself from moistures and suspend any contaminents to be filtered off. Para-synthetics represent the only way I know to get the advantages of full sythetics without the prices you have to pay for them. Now if there is a cheaper para-synthetic than BuRP's available that meats the standards they have set I don't know? If there is a full synthetic (there are many) in the same price range as OEM oil provided then after an unknown amount of miles it might be smarter to switch to the full synthetic for the same or similar price range.

Spent thirty years lubricating everything from expensive commercial and industrial equipment to sprint and Nascar engines and I have learned everything I know the HARD and EXPENSIVE way. I learned many years ago synthetic oils and lubricants are good but are only necessary when there is nothing else cheaper that will work just as good. The Old Tribologist! Bill
great info, thanks for taking the time to share.:clap:
 
BuRP oil is a semi or para-synthetic and probably better during early running than a full synthetic to make sure the rings and bearings are fully happy and seated.

.....

Spent thirty years lubricating everything from expensive commercial and industrial equipment to sprint and Nascar engines and I have learned everything I know the HARD and EXPENSIVE way. I learned many years ago synthetic oils and lubricants are good but are only necessary when there is nothing else cheaper that will work just as good. The Old Tribologist! Bill

well I have to agree some and disagree some ... we spent $$$ on these RT-S and for a few dollars more per Quart then blended oil, I can live with spending that. The Motul line or any motorcycle made for oil line is better designed with the higher rpms oil anti-foaming and heat long range issues then an all in one type BRP oil for spyders and watercraft... (just my guess that you have different issues and riding styles on personal watercraft)

but about synths, i feel 100% better if I get stuck in traffic or slow moving stop and go with full syth protecting my engine. these can-ams seem to get pretty hot. On a car I run semi synth as more engine block less rpm then motorcycle.

as far as when to go to synth ... sorry to cross post but here is some reading on breaking in the engine they both say to not use syth for break in (gets too slick) but after that first 600 miles the 2nd link says its fine and I agree...

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
and
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I broke in my 103 cu in Harley engine the 2nd link on a Dyno way and it works great... I agree with the 2nd link and did seat my rings with just 2 miles on the can am rt-s that way. I found an empty wide open lightly used highway near me and did 3 pulls in each gear after it was warmed up and used engine braking (not brakes) to slow down as recommended... after 2 pulls in 3rd gear a puff of slight smoke and the rings were seated. but still did pulls from 20% to 80% throttle in 4th. then cool down for a few mins and did the same one more time. The next day repeated the process, this time with pulls from 20 to maybe 90% throttle in all 5 gears ( 3 pulls ) up highway and then turned around and did the same back...

now after 600 miles went to full synthetic BRP oil as it was done by the dealer, but after this I will be using Motul Oil 300V full synthetic 5W20. :doorag:
 
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