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givi top case wiring

I was in the process of wiring my givi top case,and i had it working. Then my tailights and brake lights stopped working,the engine will not crank and it won't come out of reverse. I checked all of the fuses,found a 10 amp for turn signals blow,changed it,but still no tailights,no brake lights,no crank and won't come out of reverse.Any ideas?..All I did was tap into the white and black wire to connect my top box..I there something that overheats and then cools back down?,because I did have the lights on for a bit to check which wires to tap..

It now will start,but I now have a abs/vss fault with limp in mode scrolling across my cluster.
I went out a bit later,now there are no warning lights,no limp in mode,but still no tailights and brake lights..fuse 7 is good..I have three lights in back behind the seat..two small on both sides of the center stoplight..Is this factory or did someone add the center one?
I found a connector on right side by brake light switch.I can disconnect it and apply 12 volts and my rear lights wo
I finally gave up...drove it to the dealer in limp in
They only had it one day...my wiring job was correct,but when I replaced the fuse I blew,I put 1/2 of it in one location and the other spade in the location next to it....I never said I was smart!!!!...they found that and adjusted my parking brake at NO CHARGE!!!..AND I LOCKED MY SPYDER KEY UNDER THE SEAT WHILE I WAS TALKING TO THEM,AND HAD TO DRIVE 80 MILES ROUNDTRIP FOR MY SPARE..I THINK THEY FELT SORRY FOR ME.(I THINK I COULD STILL HEAR THEM LAUGHING AS I LEFT..

Well, if you are tripping a circuit that controls the brake lights, I do believe you will go into limp mode...I'm not sure if you are okay with one working, but if both go, I think you're SOL...good thing they figured out the problem.

On my bike, I have the triple play...so, I had to take the blue and black wires from the Givi and tap them into the black and I think it was orange brake light (before it got to the triple play). This allows the Givi light to go on with braking only...good enough...I could've tapped them into the stalk lights I have (with the sidebags), but I didn't want to deal with the hassle...having them go on with the brakes is good enough...the stalks flash three times and then remain on...

Oh, small glitch with the monolock hard bag...the inside top connection sits a little too deep and may not work when you use it...meaning, it sits in its groove and in my case is too far from the bottom connection...so, I had to put some electrical tape around the connection to keep it from sliding all the way down...I then taped the whole thing to the plastic to keep it in place...I then tried to bang and rattle the bag and the brake light still worked just fine...

Make sure your light connection is solid before you take it out. It appears that the contact from the mount to the bag is pretty good...the ones on the inside of the clam may not work as you want them to and you might need to fiddle with them a little...
 
You are exactly right on the switch position under the lid. I had the same trouble and I removed my switch from the groove and used the small felt sticky pads that you put on cabinet doors to quiet a slam noise. I cut them in half, and they fit perfect in the bottom of the slot,then re-installed my switch. I called and they said they had never heard of anyone having any problems with the switches.
 
You are exactly right on the switch position under the lid. I had the same trouble and I removed my switch from the groove and used the small felt sticky pads that you put on cabinet doors to quiet a slam noise. I cut them in half, and they fit perfect in the bottom of the slot,then re-installed my switch. I called and they said they had never heard of anyone having any problems with the switches.

Well, 2 out of 2 here...so, maybe they aren't interested in learning about their design flaw...argh!

I like your idea...if my fix doesn't work, I'll give yours a shot...
 
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