G'day from Down Under - what to look for in a high milage Spyder?

[BajaRon]

I'm with Peter. 60K on the odometer isn't a big deal if the bike has been maintained. I hope he got his monies worth for the $3K service. I'd ask to see the itemized service bill to see what got taken care of. That will give you an idea of what doesn't need attention and what might need looking at before you purchase.

In general, it's better to get an older bike with more miles than with just a few miles. Sitting can be harder on a Spyder than riding.

The 2013's got a bad rep because of all the Micky Mouse corners BRP cut in areas that would typically have been no big deal. For example. BRP switched from an aluminum master cylinder to a plastic one. This M/C, full of flammable brake fluid, is located right next to the exhaust and BRP choose not to add any heat shielding.

SURPRISE, Mr. Engineer! Exhaust melts plastic M/C, catches plastic and brake fluid on fire and burns the bike to the ground! Who could possibly see that coming?!

But BRP recalled the 2013's for this and some other issues and when they were done spending way more than it would have cost them if they'd done it right at the factory. The 2013's have been as reliable as any other year model.

In short. If the bike has been well maintained, I'd go for it. Get in cheep and more likely to get your money back out than with a more expensive model. Especially if you can do routine maintenance (oil changes, brake jobs, etc.) yourself. Who knows? He might be willing to come down from the asking price.

 

[Cobranut]

I can't really add to what Peter said.
An SE model makes a lot more sense considering your situation.

Good luck, and I hope you can find a good deal on a nice bike. These things really are fun to ride.

 

[Freddy]

In Tassie

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/east-cam/motorcycles/can-am-spyder-rs-spe-se5-special-edition-2015/1320498696

 

[Uncle Ernest]

In Tassie

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/east-cam/motorcycles/can-am-spyder-rs-spe-se5-special-edition-2015/1320498696

Thanks Freddy but Tassie is a long way to go for a test ride.
Although it sounds like it's been set-up real well with upgraded shocks and sway bar, I really can't get past that colour combo
What were they thinking?

 

[Uncle Ernest]

I'm with Peter. 60K on the odometer isn't a big deal if the bike has been maintained. I hope he got his monies worth for the $3K service. I'd ask to see the itemized service bill to see what got taken care of. That will give you an idea of what doesn't need attention and what might need looking at before you purchase.

In general, it's better to get an older bike with more miles than with just a few miles. Sitting can be harder on a Spyder than riding.

The 2013's got a bad rep because of all the Micky Mouse corners BRP cut in areas that would typically have been no big deal. For example. BRP switched from an aluminum master cylinder to a plastic one. This M/C, full of flammable brake fluid, is located right next to the exhaust and BRP choose not to add any heat shielding.

SURPRISE, Mr. Engineer! Exhaust melts plastic M/C, catches plastic and brake fluid on fire and burns the bike to the ground! Who could possibly see that coming?!

But BRP recalled the 2013's for this and some other issues and when they were done spending way more than it would have cost them if they'd done it right at the factory. The 2013's have been as reliable as any other year model.

In short. If the bike has been well maintained, I'd go for it. Get in cheep and more likely to get your money back out than with a more expensive model. Especially if you can do routine maintenance (oil changes, brake jobs, etc.) yourself. Who knows? He might be willing to come down from the asking price.

Thanks for the advice Ron, good to know all of that (it explains some of the not so good Spyder reports I've read in the past)
Unfortunately that particular trike is off the list as I was not aware that some models, like that one, are manuals.
Since I'm an amputee (which is why I'm looking at trikes rather than a Ducati ) it would be wiser for me to get a semi-auto Spyder.
Although I'm still able to ride bikes with a heel/toe set up and able to drive manual cars and trucks, I know that fatigue in my leg would set in on longer trips.

 

[Cobranut]

Thanks Freddy but Tassie is a long way to go for a test ride.
Although it sounds like it's been set-up real well with upgraded shocks and sway bar, I really can't get past that colour combo
What were they thinking?

I'm with you on those colors.

 

[Bfromla]

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/eas...er-rs-spe-se5-special-edition-2015/1320498696

Thanks for the advice Ron, good to know all of that [it explains some of the not so good Spyder reports I've read in the past]
Unfortunately that particular trike is off the list as I was not aware that some models, like that one, are manuals.
Since I'm an amputee [why I'm looking at trikes rather than a Ducati ] it would be wiser for me to get a semi-auto Spyder.
Although I'm still able to ride bikes with a heel/toe set up and able to drive manual cars and trucks, I know that fatigue in my leg would set in on longer trips.

Colors can be wrapped at least optional alternative, if unable to find other SE models
https://wrapmyspyder.com/vinyl-category/rt-spyder-2020/. & or redneck rattle can the color options of “Flex Seal” ( I say in jest, however have seen some quality work done with skilled hands)

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks for the advice Ron, good to know all of that (it explains some of the not so good Spyder reports I've read in the past)
Unfortunately that particular trike is off the list as I was not aware that some models, like that one, are manuals.
Since I'm an amputee (which is why I'm looking at trikes rather than a Ducati ) it would be wiser for me to get a semi-auto Spyder.
Although I'm still able to ride bikes with a heel/toe set up and able to drive manual cars and trucks, I know that fatigue in my leg would set in on longer trips.

It's general advice and should apply to any Spyder you consider. BRP finally fazed out the manual versions. I guess they just were not selling as well. I ride various Spyders all the time (test rides of customers bikes we work on). And I prefer the manual shift. The more aggress you are, the more likely you'll appreciate a manual transmission.

In your case, of course, the SE will be the way to go. The SE system on the Spyder does work quite well. You just can't feather the clutch or grab multiple gears at a time.

 

[Rd_Runner]

Uncle Earnest, if you end with an older spyder with the 998cc V-twin, there two things to keep any eye on: 1. Oil level - the V twin likes to sip a little oil (not excessively). 2. Throttle body vacuum lines - the OEM rubber vacuum lines do not last. They get warm under the plastics and crack. When this happens you will have significant run problems. Most owners either keep a pir of replacements handy; or replace them with neoprene lines.

The above issues aside, the older Spyders are awesome to ride. I owned a 2013 RT Limited with the SM-5 and it was really fun to ride. The V Twin 998 motor loved to rev. It was way different to ride then the big clunky Harley Ultra Classic I traded in for it. (I will never own a Harley Davidson again).

I now own a 2019 Spyder F3 LTD with the 1330 in-line 3 with the SE-6. It has a wider and tamer power band and does not mind lower revs. I really love the semi-automatic SE-6. Given your circumstances I recommend you find yourself a spyder with the SE-5 or SE-6 transmission.
I wish you the best of luck, and I hope you can find a Spyder that fits your needs.

Mike