so cheap I squeak usin 87 and luvin it nojokeCool..... Our old friend the Octane Thread is back! Don't forget kids, now that it's colddddd out, higher octane ratings are better for you and your Spyder...
so cheap I squeak usin 87 and luvin it nojokeCool..... Our old friend the Octane Thread is back! Don't forget kids, now that it's colddddd out, higher octane ratings are better for you and your Spyder...
Yepper you :cus: just sayin :doorag:That's probably why all your fluids pour out that thing every chance they get.......just sayin.....
Been there done that wiped out once on my Rupp mini bike hand went under tank throttle wide open hand stuck between tank spark plug the burn did not hurt at all compared to the shock treatment I got :2thumbs:Not going to ask how you grounded it to shut it down....
It did with my 4 plug stroker that and aviation fuel the glide yes but :spyder:I see no difference :doorag:Cam2 would solve all your woes.......:2thumbs:
:yikes: I thought I told you about that know go put your tongue on a Flagpole for me :thumbup:High voltage therapy at an early age, huh? Now the picture is getting clearer....
so cheap I squeak usin 87 and luvin it nojoke
Anything higher than 87 octane is a total waste of money. It will not run 'better' in the Spyder, nor will you get better MPG. It may run 'okay', but many have found it runs worse (including myself).
Only an engine that specifically requires the higher octane will benefit from running it. Period.
Another thing to consider is your 'higher octane' fuel is almost always older - as in not as fresh - as the lower octane. It sits much longer without being turned over because it doesn't sell as much - thus it picks up moisture and loses octane - thus becomes stale.
If you want the rotax to perk up - expensive gas isn't the way.
Add Ken's O2 mod, an aftermarket exhaust, Race Airflow setup and fuel pressure mod - it WILL awaken the beast that has been sleeping in your Spyder!
try reading this for some good info:
http://www.mastermuffler.net/10th-biggest-automotive-myths.html
As far as I know, we still aren't certain if the Spyder ECU utilizes any form of knock control.
The Spyder does NOT have a knock sensor.....this has been discussed previously.:spyder:
I agree... have been through the shop manual in detail and there is no mention of one anywhere.
.
try reading this for some good info:
http://www.mastermuffler.net/10th-biggest-automotive-myths.html
This is from the ftc...
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consumer/autos/aut12.shtm
Higher octane gas ain't worth it!!!!!
The Spyder does NOT have a knock sensor.....this has been discussed previously.:spyder:
Yes, it's been discussed, and no, it doesn't have a stand alone knock sensor. But as we have no end user or dealer access to the actual tables in the ECU, we don't know for certain that there isn't a knock sensing system in the ignition circuitry similar to what Harley has been using since 2002. I find it hard to believe that for all the advanced electronics on the Spyder, there is no knock control system being used, unless the ignition timing is severely retarded from the get go. Look at the parameters- the Rotax is almost 11:1 compression, it has to operate from sea level to 10,000 ft elevation or more, from 1500 to 10,00 rpm, from 0 to 100% throttle positions, unloaded or heavily laden, stock exhaust or performance, and I don't recall hearing anyone complain about detonation. Sorry guys, but I don't believe that a fixed ignition map from the factory is that versatile. If ignition timing is really that retarded to cover all those bases, imagine the performance and fuel mileage gains that are being compromised. I have a sneaking suspicion there's more to it than what you think you see(or don't see) on the surface....