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Gas door for rt seat

INSTAL VIDEO

Does anyone have a video on installing the gas door into the seat?
There are PICS around but no video that I know of .... Install is not difficult .... I've done 18 or so, finding nice bolts or machine screws can be a pain 1/4 inch works .... use "T" nuts , cut off two prongs on ea. file down the other two ( the seat pan doesn't take the prongs easily )... A trick I learned was using two or three 1/4 X 2 in bolts to squeeze the ring down to compress the Foam then you can use shorter bolts ( 3/4 in long Torx )these will reach the "T" nuts because they have a long shank !! ..... Put the DOOR on the left side of the seat ....it goes very far forward leave about 1/2in at top and bottom at the front of the Ring so the bolts will hold .... pick which way it should open .... I would have someone holding it now & BURN the holes only through the seat material ( a soldering iron or heat a large nail ), then you use the drill DON'T JUST DRILL IT FIRST .... the Bit won't cut the nylon threads in the seat material and it will GATHER .... I would just do the TWO that you use the long bolts on ,they should be opposite each other ... then tighten them down and do the other holes ... I prefer the hinge at the back because I don't use the bolts there ....the seat PAN has a large bump there so you would need 2 in. long bolts ( they aren't needed anyway ) leave the dummy ones that hold the HINGE for the actual door for just that purpose .... Now you need to CUT the material around the inside of the RING ... I use a box cutter with a new blade ...leave a little extra around the inside edge , this keeps the door from going past the edge of the ring .....now you have the PAN to cut :yikes:.... I use a hole saw cutter 2 to 2 1/2 in max size ( a larger one is too difficult to control - I learned this lesson ) run your Drill BACKWARDS ... for the rest of the PAN I use the very course stone in my dremel ... you can get one for your drill ,it will just be slower ..... you can smooth the foam with a VERY hot spoon or just paint it Black ... you may have to trim out where the Lock Latch rotates between the seat and the ring ...... Now I hope someone makes this a STICKY so it can be found be someone else :yes:.... This the most comprehensive Install instructions I have ever written and I don't want to do it again.... if some talented member can Bookmark this or somehow make retrieval EASY I would appreciate it....... Mike :thumbup:
 
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I'm seriously thinking of this mod also.
But I don't want a door with a lock. I don't need to carry around another damn key.

A locking gas door? Don't think they are needed on our :spyder2:'s. Never had an issue with over 50,000 miles of the Corbin gas doors--without locks.
 
TO LOCK OR NOT TO LOCK

A locking gas door? Don't think they are needed on our :spyder2:'s. Never had an issue with over 50,000 miles of the Corbin gas doors--without locks.
That's not the issue .... try and find one ( that is the correct size, made sturdy eenough, & has the right hinge mechanism ) ..... almost all of them MADE have locks ..... Your car / trk has door locks it's you choice to use or not.............. Mike :thumbup: .........One of my motto's is " Adjust or Perish ":lecturef_smilie: :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:
 
That's not the issue .... try and find one ( that is the correct size, made sturdy eenough, & has the right hinge mechanism ) ..... almost all of them MADE have locks ..... Your car / trk has door locks it's you choice to use or not.............. Mike :thumbup: .........One of my motto's is " Adjust or Perish ":lecturef_smilie: :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

I can adjust to your point of view. :roflblack::roflblack: It's a moot issue for me now. The bikes with the Corbins are gone. Both seats need to be "unlocked" for us to get gas. We don't ride with passengers or gear, so it's only us that have to get off when it's time for gas. I am back to safe, secure, and no gas door. :yes::yes:

We have a beautiful sunny day today. Time to go for a ride, put on some miles, and re-test how we feel about no gas doors. :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack:
 
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  • 1/4" machine screws work .... use "T" nuts , cut off two prongs on ea. file down the other two ( the seat pan doesn't take the prongs easily )... A trick I learned was using two 1/4 X 2 in bolts to squeeze the ring down to compress the Foam then you can use shorter bolts ( 3/4 in long Torx )these will reach the "T" nuts because they have a long shank !! .....
  • Put the DOOR on the left side of the seat ....it goes very far forward leave about 1/2in at top and bottom at the front of the Ring so the bolts will hold .... pick which way it should open .... I would have someone holding it now & BURN the holes only through the seat material ( a soldering iron or heat a large nail ), then you use the drill
  • DON'T JUST DRILL IT FIRST .... the Bit won't cut the nylon threads in the seat material and it will GATHER .... I would just do the TWO that you use the long bolts on ,they should be opposite each other ... then tighten them down and do the other holes ... I prefer the hinge at the back because I don't use the bolts there ....
  • the seat PAN is very far from the seat material and you would need 2 in. long bolts ( they aren't needed anyway ) leave the dummy ones that hold the HINGE for the actual door for just that purpose ....
  • Now you need to CUT the material around the inside of the RING ... I use a box cutter with a new blade ...leave a little extra around the inside edge , this keeps the door from going past the edge of the ring .....
  • now you have the PAN to cut .... I use a hole saw cutter 2 to 2 1/2 in max size ( a larger one is too difficult to control - I learned this lesson ) run your drill BACKWARDS ...
  • for the rest of the PAN I use the very course stone in my dremel ... you can get one for your drill ,it will just be slower .....
  • you can smooth the foam with a VERY hot spoon or just paint it Black ... you may have to trim out where the Lock Latch rotates between the seat and the ring ...... Now I hope someone makes this a STICKY so it can be found be someone else ....
This the most comprehensive Install instructions I have ever written and I don't want to do it again.... if some talented member can Bookmark this or somehow make retrieval EASY I would appreciate it....... Mike :thumbup:

Mike, I don't think I have access to make a sticky of it...does anyone else know how to do this?
 
Thanks for the detailed post...

There are PICS around but no video that I know of .... Install is not difficult .... I've done 18 or so, finding nice bolts or machine screws can be a pain 1/4 in works .... use "T" nuts , cut off two prongs on ea. file down the other two ( the seat pan doesn't take the prongs easily )... A trick I learned was using two 1/4 X 2 in bolts to squeeze the ring down to compress the Foam then you can use shorter bolts ( 3/4 in long Torx )these will reach the "T" nuts because they have a long shank !! ..... Put the DOOR on the left side of the seat ....it goes very far forward leave about 1/2in at top and bottom at the front of the Ring so the bolts will hold .... pick which way it should open .... I would have someone holding it now & BURN the holes only through the seat material ( a soldering iron or heat a large nail ), then you use the drill DON'T JUST DRILL IT FIRST .... the Bit won't cut the nylon threads in the seat material and it will GATHER .... I would just do the TWO that you use the long bolts on ,they should be opposite each other ... then tighten them down and do the other holes ... I prefer the hinge at the back because I don't use the bolts there ....the seat PAN is very far from the seat material and you would need 2 in. long bolts ( they aren't needed anyway ) leave the dummy ones that hold the HINGE for the actual door for just that purpose .... Now you need to CUT the material around the inside of the RING ... I use a box cutter with a new blade ...leave a little extra around the inside edge , this keeps the door from going past the edge of the ring .....now you have the PAN to cut :yikes:.... I use a hole saw cutter 2 to 2 1/2 in max size ( a larger one is too difficult to control - I learned this lesson ) run your BACKWARDS ... for the rest of the PAN I use the very course stone in my dremel ... you can get one for your drill ,it will just be slower ..... you can smooth the foam with a VERY hot spoon or just paint it Black ... you may have to trim out where the Lock Latch rotates between the seat and the ring ...... Now I hope someone makes this a STICKY so it can be found be someone else :yes:.... This the most comprehensive Install instructions I have ever written and I don't want to do it again.... if some talented member can Bookmark this or somehow make retrieval EASY I would appreciate it....... Mike :thumbup:

...about installing a door in the seat. Been thinking about it for a while - make it easier for a quick stop fillup. The Missus wouldn't have to be woken up and asked to get off the bike!! :roflblack: As a non-super-handy guy with tools, the detail really helps. Does anyone know of any pics of the install? Thanks again Mike.
Jim
 
GAS DOOR INSTAL - HOW TO

...about installing a door in the seat. Been thinking about it for a while - make it easier for a quick stop fillup. The Missus wouldn't have to be woken up and asked to get off the bike!! :roflblack: As a non-super-handy guy with tools, the detail really helps. Does anyone know of any pics of the install? Thanks again Mike.
Jim
Jim , I did a bit of editing on my orig. how-to on this ..... reread for the changes :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:.... Mike
 
EDIT ORIG POST

... is your edit for the door install post #21? Just want to get the right one...
Jim
Yes ...it's the one you Quoted in your post ..... I added a few words here and there to make it a bit clearer :thumbup::thumbup:........PS there doesn't seem to be many Chrome ones listed at this time .... all my Sources are out of them right now :gaah:............ Mike :thumbup:
 
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