• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Garage door opener built in

whodat

New member
I'm normally posting on the F3 forum but my wife has a Ryker that I did this to so I figured I'd pop in. I find it annoying to have to hop off the bike to open the garage door, so I addressed that problem. I used a spare waterproof stainless button from a pack I bought a while ago for a different project and bought a cheap set of garage door opener remotes.

The button:
Wires soldered to the contacts

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr


Adhesive lined heat shrink applied

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr

Wires soldered to button pads on the PCB of the remote

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr

Tessa tape applied and hot glue used as a strain relief, wires fed through slot I dremeled in the housing

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr

Ready to install

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr


Button mounted, remote velcro'd under panel

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr

Rider's view

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr

Button

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr


I'll be doing the same for my Spyder tomorrow. Total outlay, maybe $18 per bike.
 
Nicely done.
I carry a keychain size remote in my front pocket and press through my Wranglers to activate.
It works about three houses away.
 
I'm normally posting on the F3 forum but my wife has a Ryker that I did this to so I figured I'd pop in. I find it annoying to have to hop off the bike to open the garage door, so I addressed that problem. I used a spare waterproof stainless button from a pack I bought a while ago for a different project and bought a cheap set of garage door opener remotes.
.....

I have both of my garage doors spares velcro's ahead of the dash under the front part of the windshield.
Darrell
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks good.

I did something similar to my 2013 STL. Had an empty switch position on the switch panel. Found a Carling style switch double throw momentary both ways. I was then able to open either of my 2 garage doors. Now that I have gone to a 2018 F3L. I use my phone, mounted on the handlebars, to open and close my garage doors. Lots of ways to do this.
 
I have done the same thing on my Wing and another previous bike. The only difference was that I put an 1/8" headphone jack just a couple of inches from the remote. The wire from the switch had the mating 1/8" plug, which allowed it to pass through the mounting hole for the switch. Also allowed the remote (which was dropped into a side pocket in the fairing) to be removed and put into a car, if necessary.

.
 
Good idea. I was wondering what I could use for a connector but didn’t have anything on hand that’d fit. Not worth doing on the ryker since the whole panel comes off so easily and I can't come up with a reason I'd need to separate the button from the remote that wouldn't involve soldering anyway.
 
Nice, but having to stop, take out the phone, take off a glove, open the app and open the door is still more trouble than just pressing the button. If you’re someone who rides with the phone on the handlebars and touchscreen capable gloves it seems ideal though.
 
Nice, but having to stop, take out the phone, take off a glove, open the app and open the door is still more trouble than just pressing the button. If you’re someone who rides with the phone on the handlebars and touchscreen capable gloves it seems ideal though.

yes and no in my opinion.
Those seconds spent looking at your screen and away from the road could be costly. I like the manual button that can be blindly pressed in an instant without any fussing.
 
I have an app for my shop door, but not the garage door. I park my bike in the shop. I just stop in the driveway, off the road, out of traffic, start the app and open the door. Still don't have to get off the bike, but I'm out of traffic.

.
 
It works great for my situation. Pull up on my garage skirt open app with gloves on and door opens. My gloves allow for screen touch and I am off the road while accessing app. Very quick and serve me well for other scenarios as well. Multiple cars and bikes and don’t need multiple genies for each vehicle. I do like the button set up that was referenced but for me I would need to have several so app works best for my situation.
 
My cars all have Home link built in, the door opener came with two remotes and I bought another pair of openers for cheap just for this. Pretty well covers my needs. Different strokes. Oh yeah, another data point. My garage door opener has a built-in battery backup so even if the power is out, the internet is down, my phone is dead, whatever, I can still as was well stated “blindly press the button” and get in.
 
On our bikes I take a similar approach - cheap garage door opener, some solder - but instead of a button - I use a time delay relay and wire it directly to the high beams. ;-). Flash my lights and the garage opens. With the time delay relay if I turn on my high beams it's only activating the opener for half a second to a second and then the time delay relay cuts the signal - so I'm not running down my opener battery. No extra button needed on the bike - and it's not obvious to anyone at all.
 
I’ve seen that approach used before and I like it. My buell came with a remote hard wired to the flash to pass button. Probably work on the Ryker too, haven’t checked. Does have the issue you stated though with hitting the button every time you go to high beam, but honestly how often is that? Won’t work on my Spyder though, the controls are all canbus. On the ryker I considered putting the button in any number of hidden locations but when all was said and done the panel mount was just the easiest and fastest.

Edit, just realized you probably meant you wired the relay to get it’s power from the high beam. Good call.
 
Won’t work on my Spyder though, the controls are all canbus.

I won't argue the Canbus argument with anyone - cause I don't want to be the cause of others having problems - but I will state that on 4 different Spyder ('09 GS, '11 RT, '15 F3S, '19 RT) I've tapped the headlight (high beam), I've tapped brake lights, I've tapped turn signals, and I've never had a single problem. My own PERSONAL opinion is that the Canbus fears are over exaggerated.

Yes - the relay gets power from the high beams - tapped at the headlight plug itself. The relay receives the high beam power and actuates the garage door opener but only very temporarily.

The button approach you took works great too - I just didn't want the button. :-)
 
Back
Top