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FuzeBlocks FZ-1 or EasternBeaver PC-8

wyliec

New member
Has someone installed either one of these below the 'Y' panel (just ahead of the seat) on a GS/RS?

I have the PC-8 installed under the dash and was thinking of moving it. I'd rather not disconnect all the wires to see if it will fit.
 
Have the Eastern Beaver 3 on recommendation from Scotty, and I am very happy, in fact I bought and installed a second. I would get it with the diode.
 
Have the Eastern Beaver 3 on recommendation from Scotty, and I am very happy, in fact I bought and installed a second. I would get it with the diode.

Using a 3-circuit fuse block has lots of advantages over a larger block that pulls all the circuits together in one place. I used a PowerLet Termin-8 on my RT but now am adding a couple of the 3-circuit Eastern Beaver switched fuse blocks to simplify the wiring for LEDs and accessories at different locations.
 
Using a 3-circuit fuse block has lots of advantages over a larger block that pulls all the circuits together in one place. I used a PowerLet Termin-8 on my RT but now am adding a couple of the 3-circuit Eastern Beaver switched fuse blocks to simplify the wiring for LEDs and accessories at different locations.

I have the EasternBeaver PC-8, which has 8 circuits; 2 unswitched and 6 switched. I appreciate your comments; but, can you explain a little more regarding the advantages of having a few fuse blocks with less circuits per block vs one larger fuse block with one central location?

Right now I actually have 3 unswitched circuits (I cheated and won't get into that) and 2 switched circuits. The unswitched are: one powerlet outlet, trunk opener, and an alarm. The switched circuits are: one powerlet outlet, and a stebel horn. I have no intentions of adding any more circuits.

I just don't like the location where I have the PC-8. Of course if there is a benefit to multiple (lesser circuit) fuse blocks, I'm open to change.

By the way, I purchased the longest fuse block harness that Eastern Beaver offered at the time of my purchase. I was actually wanting one that would have reached the trunk.
 
The advantage I mentioned of using several smaller fuse blocks is mainly related to location and flexibility for later adding or changing connections for lights or accessories. Since I keep adding (and changing) things at both ends of the RT, having a fuse block at both the front and the rear end saves some extra wiring. If you are organized enough to plan out all your light and accessory mods well in advance, a larger fuse block in one location may be best. The use of several Eastern Beaver 3-circuit fuse block seems to be a nice solution to buy some flexibility for future mods.
 
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cjackg and packbuckbrew ,

I think I'm going to purchase two of what you mentioned; one CS-3 switched and one CS-3 non-switched. I like the idea of the insert pin you can purchase to insert into the plastic for attachment of the blocks. I'll be able to keep them near the area of the PC-8, which I'll be removing. This way should the (left side) HID ballast ever find its way down below the dash (which it did recently) it won't knock a wire loose from the fuse block as it lands on the engine.:yikes:

Since I already have the harness from the PC-8, all I'll need are the fuse blocks and a short harness.
 
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