Frunk

[2Gunns]

My Front won't latch ! Electronic does nothing... key does work latch but when I close the hood it doesn't lock in.

 

[Lamonster]

Check the micro switch on the trunk. Mine needed to be adjusted.

 

[NancysToy]

If not the microswitch, check the latch adjustment. There are two bolts on the bearclaw that attach it and allow adustment. Also, check the gasket, especially if you have a trunk liner. If it pulls off, it will interfere with latching the trunk. Lubricating the latch and latch bar helps, too.

 

[2Gunns]

Check the micro switch on the trunk. Mine needed to be adjusted.

Shouldn't there be a Warning when the Frunk is open (same as with other hatches)? I seem to recall seeing that before...well it's not now, so this micro-switch could be the problem...I'll check that.

 

[rogerb]

There is on the RTs. It also warns you if the saddlebags are ajar. Three of us on Spyderlovers found out that our sensors were not wired correctly. I don't have the drawing because I gave it to my dealer to put in his files. Maybe somebody can remember which forum it was on.:helpsmilie:

 

[retired1]

My RTS only indicates on the dash, when the rrunk or side bags are not closed completely.

 

[2Gunns]

Check the micro switch on the trunk. Mine needed to be adjusted.

the switch was in need of adjustment.... the electic switch now works, BUT frunk still will not latch down. Not sure what I'm looking for in order to adjuct the bearclaw.

 

[Lamonster]

Shouldn't there be a Warning when the Frunk is open (same as with other hatches)? I seem to recall seeing that before...well it's not now, so this micro-switch could be the problem...I'll check that.

Sorry, I reread your post and see it's not closing, I was thinking it wasn't opening. It most likely just needs adjusting.

 

[NancysToy]

the switch was in need of adjustment.... the electic switch now works, BUT frunk still will not latch down. Not sure what I'm looking for in order to adjuct the bearclaw.

Section 07 CHASSIS
Subsection 06 (BODY)
Torque storage compartment screws to 4.5 N.m (40 lbf•in).
Front Storage Compartment Cover
Adjustment
1. Open front storage compartment cover.
2. Loosen 4 retaining screws at the front of cover.
3. Completely move cover toward the outside then hold it in place.
4. Tighten 4 retaining screws at the front of cover.
5. Loosen 2 retaining screws of cover hinge.
6. Completely move cover hinge toward the front.
7. Tighten 2 retaining screws of cover hinge.
8. Verify alignment between the latch and the slot of the sleeve.
8.1 If an alignment is required, loosen cover hinge screws and rotate hinge accordingly.
9. Lift cover 30cm (12 in), let it fall, then verify if cover latch properly.
9.1 If cover does not latch, loosen latch retaining screws and adjust latch accordingly.
10. Ensure cover height fits with front panels height when cover is closed.

 

[2Gunns]

You guys and this forum are AWESOME ..... problem solved :2thumbs:

 

[Mowerman]

There is on the RTs. It also warns you if the saddlebags are ajar. Three of us on Spyderlovers found out that our sensors were not wired correctly. I don't have the drawing because I gave it to my dealer to put in his files. Maybe somebody can remember which forum it was on.:helpsmilie:

Is this just on the RTs models? I have never seen this on my RT

Mowerman

 

[Mowerman]

Roger,
Thanks for the info. I will look into it and see if the jumpers are wrong.

Mowerman

 

[Bootie]

Mis-wired Jumper

I bet you have a silver rt a/c.

There's a jumper mis-wired.
This misplaced jumper causes the "Rear Cargo Door Open" not to be displayed and the useless air shock graphic to be displayed on the multifunction display.

It drove me nuts until I tracked down the bad jumper.


Here's how to fix it.

My jumper was between 4 & 1.

Thanks for the info, Roger. I DO have a silver RT and I have that air-shock indicator on my display. My rear trunks have opened on occasion and other drivers have tried to let me know about it. I'll give your fix a try.

I didn't quite get where the block is located. Could you describe it again?
bt

 

[Bootie]

Hey Roger, the fix worked great.:2thumbs: Thanks for tracking that down.:thumbup:
I have included a pic of the fix in case anyone is wondering.

 

[spydiepig]

THATS IT, THANKS

I bet you have a silver rt a/c.

There's a jumper mis-wired.
This misplaced jumper causes the "Rear Cargo Door Open" not to be displayed and the useless air shock graphic to be displayed on the multifunction display.

It drove me nuts until I tracked down the bad jumper.


Here's how to fix it:
The jumper is located under the switch blank in the row of switches controlling the Brake/Hood Release and Heated Grips.

The block is under the fourth cover over if you count the Brake/Hood Release as #1.
It's actually where the rocker switch for the power air shock thingee would be if we lived in the high rent RT-S district.

Use a small screwdriver as a pry bar, be careful not to scratch the plastic around it.
Pull the cover off with your fingers. It can be a bit tight if it's never been removed.

You'll see a switch block hanging there.

The jumper is a white plastic block that plugs into the connector block.
It should have the jumper across two terminal holes in the block.
The correct location of the jumper should be between #3 & #6

For some reason the numbers go


9 6 5 4 7

10 3 2 1 8


To help you in identification Pin 9 & 4 do not have terminals in them. They are blank.

My jumper was between 4 & 1.

When re-installing the switch blank make certain the switch block is locked into the blank before you push it all the way down.

In a related note -
Most of these Spyders also left the factory without the passenger heated grips connected.

THAT WORDED, FOR MY BLUE RT THANKS YOU

 

[willteix]

4th switch location from the left?

I looked at mine and the pins that are mentioned in this blog don't even have conductors in them It is the 4th switch location from the left right? Or it is the 3rd? I ask since the pix in the next message shows it being the 3rd and is an orange plug. I did not look at that one.. I will. Oh and i saw no jumper on the white plug under the 4th switch location from the left. Oh and if your not sure of the pin numbering if you look on the side of the switch you will see them numbered.

 

[willteix]

Now i get it

I didn't take into account the plug location for the intercom.. I just counted the switch locations.. humph... lol

 

[memphisdan]

Today I finally made the change to the wiring block, orbital blue RT ae. It worked perfectly now if I leave the rear or side compartments unlatched it shows up on the screen. This is a great improvement, thanks for the great directions. I just wander how anyone could figure out how to make the change.

Thanks