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Frunk switch problems

jpschulte

New member
After about a year, my frunk switch is Again not working. I have to manually open it with the key.
Wondering if anyone has had similar problems with the switch?
Wondering if anyone has easy'ish fix - not looking forward to taking it back to dealer to have it fixed. Yes, it's probably under warranty, but I don't really like my 'nearest' dealer that much anymore.
2013 RTS
 
I had same issue , stopped at BRP's trailer at Spyderfest , the told to take it to dealer to replace switch (warranty ). He stated that there is a spring in the switch that gets bent . If you don't hear the switch click then, you will need to replace. If the switch clicks, then it is an alignment issue.
 
After about a year, my frunk switch is Again not working. I have to manually open it with the key.
Wondering if anyone has had similar problems with the switch?
Wondering if anyone has easy'ish fix - not looking forward to taking it back to dealer to have it fixed. Yes, it's probably under warranty, but I don't really like my 'nearest' dealer that much anymore.
2013 RTS

Yeah, mine is out again for the second time. It was replaced the first time under warranty. The switch clicks when pressed manually, but doesn't open the latch when pressed at the same time as the switch on the handlebar, and I can hear it click when I slowly close the frunk lid, so no alignment problem. I seem to recall an earlier thread about this, and I think that there is a relay between the handlebar switch & the frunk switch. This could be the problem that you (and me) are having. It's going in next week for service & hope to get it straightened out. One other thought. Is the key hard to turn to open the frunk? It so, check the sealing gasket on the frunk. Mine was ridiculously misaligned, and once I fixed that, the key turns much easier. Good luck, and let us know the outcome.
 
Mine also failed after 6 months or so, 2013 RTL.... called the dealer and says to bring it down, but can't find the time to do so, very busy with work.... got a little bit of time some days back and did some DIY.... actuator checked ok, micro switch checked ok, so just simply bypass the original handlebar switch with a spare one (see my other posts).... works well until I can find time to have the original switch dismantled and repaired or changed.... funny thing is, I have checked the voltage from the original switch when it is activated, it shows 12+ Volts... but the actuator does not energise... I suspect the switch contacts are not fully closed, preventing the flow of higher current that is needed to energise the actuator...
 
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