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Front Wheel Removal

ricford

New member
Per an earlier post, I've learned all there needs to be known about powder coating the wheels. First step, remove the wheels. Today I spent a lot of time on the road between my house and 'town'. I asked my dealer the size socket, 21mm. I went to Sears to get said 1/2 drive socket. Not enough pump to rotate the nut. Didn't have a 6 foot 'breaker' bar. Clever guy, why not get a impact socket. Next trip into town, I got a 21mm impact socket. No help at all. The nuts on the wheels are really really close to the wheel well and that impact driver just would not fit. So now, NOW WHAT? Obviously the dealer has a special tool. Where to get one?
 
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13/16ths thin wall spark plug socket fits perfectly.

when you put it back on only go to 79 foot lbs of torque.

Cruzr Joe
 
+1 on 13/16 socket

Got some cheap at the auto supply clearance bin. Although they are 3/8" drive, a 3/8 to 1/2 conversion gets them onto my torque wrench. And after the first time off, you'll have them at 77-80 ft-lb where they're easy after that. I had one lug on each of the fronts that was tite-tite when I brought it home, but now all are clean/ lightly lubed, and torqued. Most manuals do not recommend lube on a wheel lug, but I like them clean and lightly lubed so they don't "grow fast".

Oh, and I'm sure you know, break them loose on the ground, with the parking brake set BEFORE you start to jack it up either under the front main frame member, or with a wood block or rubber pad under the A-arm.
 
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Got some cheap at the auto supply clearance bin. Although they are 3/8" drive, a 3/8 to 1/2 conversion gets them onto my torque wrench. And after the first time off, you'll have them at 77-80 ft-lb where they're easy after that. I had one lug on each of the fronts that was tite-tite when I brought it home, but now all are clean/ lightly lubed, and torqued. Most manuals do not recommend lube on a wheel lug, but I like them clean and lightly lubed so they don't "grow fast".

Oh, and I'm sure you know, break them loose on the ground, with the parking brake set BEFORE you start to jack it up either under the front main frame member, or with a wood block or rubber pad under the A-arm.

I was typing the exact same thing when I saw your post. Also, if you put the socket on a long breaker bar it will give you more leverage.
 
All of the above

But be sure it is the hexagonal socket and not the multipoint cause they are thicker....
 
Do you know a source please?
Nearly every tool I own I purchased off a Snap On tool truck, or a Matco truck, so I know they have them. I believe you can also get one at Sears in the Craftsman line. I do not expect they are too difficult to find as custom wheels have become so popular in the past two decades. The one I have even has an external plastic sleeve to prevent galling or scratching of the wheel.

A quick search and I found a set at LOWES; https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sunex-Tool..._clickID=2b240aa0-4c38-478d-b780-db2b0efd23ae
 
Breaker bar

Harbor Fright often sells a 25" breaker bar for about $10. A piece of pipe if really necessary and of course " Righty Tighty--Lefty Loosey" PLEASE use a dab of anti seize paste when re-installing. Crack the lugs loose on the ground before lifting the :spyder2:. My Magnum R/T once came back from the dealer with lugs so tight I had to stand on the breaker bar to loosen them:yikes:. You bet they heard about it!!!


Good luck, Kaos
 
BREAKER BAR - HOW TO MAKE

If you don't have one - make one like I did .......... I bought 10 ft. of 3/4in. electrical conduit at Home Depot ( $ 5.00 +/- ) you might get it shorter tho ........ cut 3 ft. and put the end in a bench vise .... flattened the end until my 1/2 in. ratchet wrench would slide in....... excellent breaker bar - CHEAP ......... Mike :thumbup:
 
I used an 18" breaker bar and regular 13/16" socket. Of course when I pulled on the bar the tire spun on the concrete floor. So I just positioned the bar parallel to the floor and gave it on quick stomp with my foot. Broke loose right off! :yes:
 
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