Front wheel bearings.

[Flier Tuck]

I think that there is too much play in the front wheel bearings of my 2016 RTL. In the parts manual it gives one part number for what it calls a cone bearing. To me it seems to be sleeve which must contain two bearings and two grease seals. Has anyone had the front hub apart or knows if I have to buy that item or can the bearings and seals be bought separately.
Thanks,
Alan.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I think that there is too much play in the front wheel bearings of my 2016 RTL. In the parts manual it gives one part number for what it calls a cone bearing. To me it seems to be sleeve which must contain two bearings and two grease seals. Has anyone had the front hub apart or knows if I have to buy that item or can the bearings and seals be bought separately.
Thanks,
Alan.

Been here since 12 .... have not heard of " front wheel bearing failure " as a common issue .... not to many rear wheel either ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[trikermutha]

How much is too much play?

It maybe a bearing itself and not what you are thinking.

Looks like it presses onto the hub.

 

[Mikey]

If it's a greaseable bearing maybe a cleaning and packing would be in order, then install, and tighten to desired tightness, set the cotter pin, and ride away!!!hyea:

 

[PMK]

I think that there is too much play in the front wheel bearings of my 2016 RTL. In the parts manual it gives one part number for what it calls a cone bearing. To me it seems to be sleeve which must contain two bearings and two grease seals. Has anyone had the front hub apart or knows if I have to buy that item or can the bearings and seals be bought separately.
Thanks,
Alan.

Have not replaced them. As I understand it, they are a double wide bearing assembly, pressed into the hub. No tapered bearings. Sealed bearings that are already greased and ready to install.

 

[Mikey]

Have not replaced them. As I understand it, they are a double wide bearing assembly, pressed into the hub. No tapered bearings. Sealed bearings that are already greased and ready to install.

Well unless they're running dry, they shouldn't have too much play them, should they??? Cool beans, thanks for the news I love knowing how things work!!

 

[KX5062]

Have not replaced them. As I understand it, they are a double wide bearing assembly, pressed into the hub. No tapered bearings. Sealed bearings that are already greased and ready to install.

This is correct. :agree:

 

[PinkRosePetal]

When replacing the bearing you need to heat the hub and cool the bearing. The hub is aluminium alloy so a smear of lubricant on the outside of the bearing is in order before pressing it into place. If it's bone dry you risk the alloy picking up and fusing to the steel bearing outer before it's fully pressed home. The hub centre shaft can be pressed in all the way or drawn in using the nut at the rear of the hub after starting it by pressing. There is a large washer before the nut, it has a chamfer on one side, be sure to note which side the chamfer is on when you dismantle.

Also, when you dismantle the shaft from the hub the bearing inner will remain on the shaft and you will need to split it off, it's tight.

Be sure the play is in the bearing rather than the top or bottom ball joint, the top one is prone to wear.

 

[Flier Tuck]

Thanks to all who replied. I have found a drawing of the wheel bearing sectioned and I now understand the layout and what I need to do. It is a type of bearing I have not seen before, a sort of compound construction. Would anyone know the torque is needed on the axle nut ?
Thanks again,
Alan.

 

[Freddy]

Are you sure it's not the ball joints?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Are you sure it's not the ball joints?

... +1

 

[Flier Tuck]

Here in the UK all vehicles have to be safety tested every year. When I took my RT in last week, they failed it on the front wheel bearings. I asked if there was any chance it was the ball joints and they said no, definitely the bearings. I have not had the chance to take a look myself. I was looking at how to do the job myself and at what was required.
Alan

 

[PinkRosePetal]

There is no reference in the manual for the tightening torque for the large axle nut. I just pull them nice and tight without being crazy tight.

The heating cooling of the parts; put the wheel bearing in the freezer for 30mins, and bring the alloy carrier up to 100°C - Boiling point... boil it in a big pan!

The inner races of the bearing are a push fit into the bearing from each end. When installing, be sure to apply pressure to the outer only when inserting into carrier.

When removing the axle, if you don't have a press and you use a hammer to tap it out, be aware that the threads are fairly soft, so protect them well. Perhaps use a softer metal drift or copper mallet.

 

[Poody]

Interesting info.
I have a 2017 RTL and the left has a rough rumble when you spin the wheel. Was picked up at its yearly Warrant of fitness (it's a compulsory safety check we have in NZ.)
It would be a rare thing to have a failure, I'm guessing.
I have done just over 40,000Ks
I had an earlier RT that I had done close to 100,000ks on and the fronts were still fine. I did the rear bearings at 70,000ks.

The original part number has now been superseded and my local dealer has 6 in stock. So maybe they use a few, or maybe thay are used on the quads as well?

 

[2dogs]

Here in the UK all vehicles have to be safety tested every year. When I took my RT in last week, they failed it on the front wheel bearings. I asked if there was any chance it was the ball joints and they said no, definitely the bearings. I have not had the chance to take a look myself. I was looking at how to do the job myself and at what was required.
Alan

I believe I would get a second opinion if it were me. Were your spyder's front wheels off the ground when they tested it?

 

[Peter Aawen]

ldpost: Just be aware people, Flier Tuck started this thread over a year ago now, and both his & PRP's most recent posts in the thread were posted over a year ago too; then Poody added a comment today. hyea: