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Front trunk micro switch on 2011 not working - any ideas on fix?

Firstly, welcome to the Forum and posting! 😊

As for your 'front trunk', or 'Frunk' as it's more commonly called around here - Front Trunk ;) - is the switch 'not depressing' because something has broken off and can no longer reach the switch? Or maybe the seal on the lid has dislodged a bit and isn't letting the lid close properly?? (that's a common one, and usually simple 'put it back in place & press to fit' fix! 😁) Or is it a switch adjustment issue?? 🤔

I think that you'll need to look at it carefully to work out exactly WHY it's 'not depressing' in order to tell us a bit more about it before we can really help, or maybe take a few pictures and post them up (there's a sticky in Spyder General Discussion on how to do that, or drop me a DM and I'll try to help you do that. ;))

Over to you. (y)
 
You have to be really careful when you are taking that cover plate on and off on that side not to bend that arm on that switch! I would make sure the switch is working, take that cover plate off and test the switch for continuity, if that's fine bend the arm lightly to make contact with cover!
 
I bought this Spyder about 6 weeks ago with 12,500 miles. An elderly gentleman previously owned the Spyder. It appears to me to be in like new condition, but the rocker switch in the switch cluster is not opening the front trunk with the key turned to On. With the trunk lid open and the key turned to On, the front trunk light does illuminate, then when I depress the micro switch with my finger, I can make the light go off then come back on. Also with my finger depressing the switch and the key On, when I push on the rocker switch in the cluster panel I can hear a solenoid or actuator clicking behind the latch assembly. With this troubleshooting being performed first, it is my thinking that the little plastic plunger is not depressing the micro switch properly to tell the computer "hey, the front trunk is closed." I think my next step will be to move the switch very little or put a little tape on the end of the plunger. Thanks for all replies.
 
IIRC, the 'switch release' for the frunk on the pre-2014 Spyders quickly became fairly widely known for being somewhat un-reliable in the amount of power it provided to activate the release mechanism; and for this reason, I think it was about the release of the 2014 models that saw the switch on the dash to open the frunk discontinued. So that switch is no longer a feature for the owners of the newer models, and I'm sure that someone will be able to confirm if their 2014 still has that dash mounted frunk release switch or not, or if it was discontinued in 2015 instead?!

The switch on my 2013 RT Ltd is a 'double acting switch', in that pressing the front end of the switch sets & releases the Park Brake, while pressing the back end of the switch is meant to open the frunk. :rolleyes: I know that waaay back then, I had the switch replaced a number of times on my 2013 RT (I'm certain that I had it replaced at least 3 times just cos the frunk wouldn't always open via the switch, altho possibly it was even as many as 5 times before I gave up? 🤔 I do know that only the first replacement was done by BRP under warranty! :cautious:) all because the frunk opening part of it simply failed to reliably provide the mechanism at the latch end with enough power to release/open the frunk without multiple tries, altho the Park Brake set/release seems to reliably work each & every time?! 😣

However, even with repeated switch activations, the frunk release side of the switch would work OK for a short while, then it'd rapidly deteriorate until it resulted in such a random opening action that eventually, I just gave up on using the switch method and reverted to using
the 'Press down & Turn the Ignition Key' frunk latch release method as my primary Frunk Opening method (altho I have added a 'hidden fail safe cable' as well, Justin. ;) )

Can you still open your frunk with the key @BlueSliver?? 🤔
 
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