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Front trunk issues
- Thread starter zztop69
- Start date
ThreeWheels
Active member
There is a redesigned catch mechanism (bar) on the hood that slips into the latch on the body. Unfortunately, it requires replacement of the entire hood to get the new catch.
See if your dealer will replace it under warranty since your having so much trouble.
See if your dealer will replace it under warranty since your having so much trouble.
ThreeWheels
Active member
Sounds like the old one to me. The new one looks like this :
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
It could need a new latch (hood), but many of the RTs that were delivered had to have latch adjustment. If the bearclaw is too far down, the hood will not latch. You can adjust it, or your dealer can. This should be tried before it is decided that a new hood is necessary.
BHawksworth
New member
How does one adjust that? Also, are the side trunks adjustable? Mine require a very definite and positive movement to latch, and I'm wondering if it can be made easier.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
If you look down into the bearclaw latch area on the Spyder, with the trunk open, you will see two screws and nuts. Loosen just enough to adjust the latch, the test it. Others have reported good results loosening the latch until it is just movable, but has to be pushed to do so. Raise it all the way, latching the lid, then push the latched lid down against the gasket, release the latch (using the key or electronic release), then tighten the latch where it sits.
The side bags and rear trunk may be able to be adjusted, but I would recommend against it. The gaskets are water (and air) tight, making it need a sharp push or a rap with the hand to latch. This is a good thing. it keeps your stuff dry. Many saddlebags, including those on my BMW, don't seal well. Latching the side bags and rear trunk will become easier in time, as the seals compress and you get the hang of the technique for latching them.
Before you get too envolved in adjusting or replacing the latch spend a little time working a good grease into the latch mechanism. I used a little bit pumped out of my grease gun on my finger and worked it in everwhere I could, then wiped the excess off. Works perfect now, just close it, put the heel of you hand on it above the latch and give it a quick jolt. Before I did this you pretty much had to hammer it hard with you hand to get it to latch. By the way this is a LaMonster tip, I can't take credit for it.
Dwight
Dwight
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Good point! I would suggest using a silicone grease. It is no staining, waterproof, and doesn't melt away in the heat. White lithium grease would be my second choice. I'm not sure why greasing the hood and seat latches is not done during the PDI. It certainly should be.Before you get too envolved in adjusting or replacing the latch spend a little time working a good grease into the latch mechanism. I used a little bit pumped out of my grease gun on my finger and worked it in everwhere I could, then wiped the excess off. Works perfect now, just close it, put the heel of you hand on it above the latch and give it a quick jolt. Before I did this you pretty much had to hammer it hard with you hand to get it to latch. By the way this is a LaMonster tip, I can't take credit for it.
Dwight
glynnk
RT-S PE#0134
Ditto...same here. Had problems at first, but I've gotten the technique down now. A little silicone helped. Interesting to note that BRP came out with a new lid closing bar.
Glynnk
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