• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Front pads replacement - what tools are needed?

MakoShark2

MakoShark2

Member
Going on a trip next week so I might replace the front pads as on one of the sides it should be around 1.5 and 2mm (rear was done recently at the dealer).

EBC's FA630HH pads are on the way.

What tools should I need beside the jack?
 
Thanks Mikey.

From the videos I've seen on youtube:

I'll need 21mn lug wrench for the wheels and a T30 Torx to remove the locking pin.
Seems it can be done without removing the calipers so an Allen wrench might not be needed.

What are the recommended tightening torques for the clip and the lug nuts of the wheels?

Also would it be OK to lift the the wheel by the lower suspension arm? Instead of lifting the whole front by the frame?

Can get my hands on that brake paste here (Europe) so I'll have to go without, but I've ordered a good brake cleaner, not sure if it will help though.
 
I would think some type of disc brake paste would be available in Portugal. I am sure you have disc brakes there and I am just as sure that they squeal. Check with a brake specialty shop in your area about brake squeal and how they solve it, maybe it is called something else in Portuguese.
 
The lug nut torque spec is in your operator's guide. The brake pad pin torque is 46 Nm or 34 lbft. The service manual says to use blue Loctite on the pins.
 
MakoShark2 said:
Thanks Mikey.

From the videos I've seen on youtube:

I'll need 21mn lug wrench for the wheels and a T30 Torx to remove the locking pin.
Seems it can be done without removing the calipers so an Allen wrench might not be needed.

What are the recommended tightening torques for the clip and the lug nuts of the wheels?

Also would it be OK to lift the the wheel by the lower suspension arm? Instead of lifting the whole front by the frame?

Can get my hands on that brake paste here (Europe) so I'll have to go without, but I've ordered a good brake cleaner, not sure if it will help though.
Click to expand...

Yes no need to remove caliber for front brakes
 
I lift mine with my Craftsman motorcycle lift and place the jack stands right beneath where there the shock bolts to the lower A-arm. That's the same place where I would place a jack if I was lifting one wheel. I personally would not try to lift the Spyder from beneath the middle of the A-arm without using a well placed piece of 2x6 to spread the load. I just don't know how strong the A-arms are. I may be all wet.
 
Lifting by the lower suspension arm is fine. Place a rag in the lift's pad to avoid paint damage. I've done front brake work one side at a time to keep it simple.
 
So, it's done :ohyea:

Most of the time was spent figuring how to lift the the front wheels about 2 inches so I coul get the jack under the suspension arm.
That's because the jack has a pad with about 3 inches of rubber.

So I had to get creative and I finally managed to place the spyder over a solid wooden door which was enough to then lift the wheels (one at a time) with the jack.

Everything else came off easily (didn't removed the callipers). Wear was pretty even on the old pads, I had about 1.5mm on the right side and a bit less than 2mm on the left.

Cleaned the whole thing, rubbed the outter side of the pads with the anti squeal stuff. Pushed the pistons with fingers and placed the new pads.

Pad pins came off very easily so 46Nm/34lbft seemed way too much for tightening.

Recommended tightening torque for lug nuts is about 110Nm which seemed right as the wheel material looks kind of soft.

And I had just finished the second wheel when I saw the little wire pin for the brake pad pin on the floor...

Thank god I managed to put it back without removing the wheel again.

Then turned on the Spyder and had a brake failure error message :gaah:

Turn it off and on again, and it was gone... I'm assuming this is normal and maybe it must have to do with the ABS sensor reseting itself...
Anyway I'll check the brake fluid level tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for helping.
 
After you change the pads but BEFORE you turn on the ignition you are supposed to pump the brake pedal several times. If you did not do that, that's why you got the brake failure message.
 
Oh yes, forgot to mention. I did that to push the pistons back against the pads and the rotors. Pressed the pedal several times until it wasn't soft anymore.
 
Since the code did not come back the second time you turned on the ignition switch it is not active. If you get dealer service for anything have them check for and clear any inactive codes.
 
All good.

Just got home from a 1500 miles trip with no issues.

Real good brake power and no "squealing" anymore.
I do noticed a "swwwishhhhh" sound when braking which I'm not sure I had with the stock pads.

Thank's to all.

Now thinking on doing the annual maintenance myself. Got to check if it's just replacing oil and filters and what I'll need.
 
I have a question and I may be asking a dumb one...but I see a lot of what is the torque specs but my question is when your tightening a bold how do you know you have tightened it down to the specs in the book? is there a tool for that...I usually just tighten things down hand tight or until i cant tighten anymore...am i looking at it wrong?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

MakoShark2
How much work is involved in replacing the brake switch?
Replies
8
Views
380
RayBJ
RayBJ
broderp
Is it possible to do an Oil Change without a lift?
2
Replies
34
Views
7K
BajaRon
BajaRon
GFrog
Fitted New Rotors and Pads, now there's weird wear marks! Is this normal?
Replies
11
Views
2K
PMK
PMK
W
What Tools are needed for maintenance on a Ryker Rally?
Replies
4
Views
2K
canamryder
C
GabrieleItalia
Is this noise caused by a bearing?
2
Replies
21
Views
2K
GabrieleItalia
GabrieleItalia
Back
Top