front fender shaking

[Outdoorlover]

Front fender shaking

Hi I also have experienced front fenders shaking but not when braking. Mine sometimes shake when going down the road. I don't have alignment problems and the rt se5 doesn't vibrate anywhere else just the front fenders.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SHAKING ????

Hi I also have experienced front fenders shaking but not when braking. Mine sometimes shake when going down the road. I don't have alignment problems and the rt se5 doesn't vibrate anywhere else just the front fenders.

If there are no vibrations I would check the fender bracket bolts ASAP .......Mike :thumbup:

 

[Outdoorlover]

Front fender shakes

If there are no vibrations I would check the fender bracket bolts ASAP .......Mike :thumbup:

Thanks Mike for the heads up starting to notice at 42 to 45 miles per hour the right fender shakes but only on certain road conditions. Doesn't do it all the time. Also checked the tire pressure on both tires they are fine. When going down straight road I have even let go of handlebars and the spyder stays true. Not sure what else to check? Any thoughts

 

[r1100rider]

Thanks Mike for the heads up starting to notice at 42 to 45 miles per hour the right fender shakes but only on certain road conditions. Doesn't do it all the time. Also checked the tire pressure on both tires they are fine. When going down straight road I have even let go of handlebars and the spyder stays true. Not sure what else to check? Any thoughts

You need to look very close at this as mine and several others have cracked the tubing that is the bracket the tubing is very thin and vibrations cracked it

 

[jtoro1]

Fender Shake

Replace my rotors and brakes and the shake is gone. Ordered the rotors and brakes from Bajaron worked great.

 

[youngers]

Thanks Mike for the heads up starting to notice at 42 to 45 miles per hour the right fender shakes but only on certain road conditions. Doesn't do it all the time. Also checked the tire pressure on both tires they are fine. When going down straight road I have even let go of handlebars and the spyder stays true. Not sure what else to check? Any thoughts

uhhhhh ! funny , out today , I think I had the same shake , the fenders , and tires , as though it went out of balance at the speed of 45 m.p.h. power up a little and smoothed right out , did it 2 or 3 times .. { so I think the tire pressure was out , just a touch from right too left , and the temperature was a lot different ... as in the garage it was around 60 degrees , out side was 68 too 70 the only thing I could see that would cause this kind of bounce shake ! { oh the misses , cleaned her shorts too :lecturef_smilie: hahaha

 

[spyderwing57]

Thanks for asking this question my 2015 RT LTD is doing the same thing. Last year while at Americade I had a caliper hang up caused the pads to go and of course took the rotor with it. Now I see my right front fender shaking again. I 'll check the warped rotor it makes sense to me.

 

[RTJERRY]

has anyone ever had one of their front fenders do a very noticeable shake when applying brake pretty heavy.............. no steering issues or vibration issues to be felt but when applying brake hard,,,,,,,,,,, left fender is stationary but right fender shakes very noticeable .

I’ve had same problem. Was a warped rotor. Looks like it’s doing it again. Why only the right, beats me.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

There is an accuracy issue with the machining of the axle spindles where the disc mounting flange is not square to the bearing surface. The disc runs with a slight tilt but because its thickness is even initially it causes no noticeable problem. However, over time, because of the tilt, wear begins to take place on diagonally opposite sides of the disc. Since this wear is in two opposite places on the disc the disc becomes thinner at these positions and a vibration begins to show up over time under braking conditions. This is because as the thicker patches of the disc pass between the pads the braking pressure momentarily increases. It is wrongly diagnosed as a warped disc because when checked the disc surface is seen to have a run-out. To check for this condition correctly the disc thickness need to be checked. It will have two thinner patches directly opposite each other.

A warped disc doesn't initially show vibration because its thickness remains even though, in time it will begin to cause uneven wear. It is mostly a problem because it wears out the pistons and cylinder of the brake caliper since they are constantly moving back and forth during braking. Another side issue is that there is a little more brake pedal travel before the brake is applied because the warp taps the pistons a little further back into the caliper.


In conclusion, if you experience a braking vibration but the pedal travel remains similar to normal check the brake disc for varying thickness. Replacement discs will fix the problem temporarily.

I have machined a few of these hubs to true them up and it has totally eliminated the issue.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

There is an accuracy issue with the machining of the axle spindles where the disc mounting flange is not square to the bearing surface. The disc runs with a slight tilt but because its thickness is even initially it causes no noticeable problem. However, over time, because of the tilt, wear begins to take place on diagonally opposite sides of the disc. Since this wear is in two opposite places on the disc the disc becomes thinner at these positions and a vibration begins to show up over time under braking conditions. This is because as the thicker patches of the disc pass between the pads the braking pressure momentarily increases. It is wrongly diagnosed as a warped disc because when checked the disc surface is seen to have a run-out. To check for this condition correctly the disc thickness need to be checked. It will have two thinner patches directly opposite each other.

A warped disc doesn't initially show vibration because its thickness remains even though, in time it will begin to cause uneven wear. It is mostly a problem because it wears out the pistons and cylinder of the brake caliper since they are constantly moving back and forth during braking. Another side issue is that there is a little more brake pedal travel before the brake is applied because the warp taps the pistons a little further back into the caliper.


In conclusion, if you experience a braking vibration but the pedal travel remains similar to normal check the brake disc for varying thickness. Replacement discs will fix the problem temporarily.

I have machined a few of these hubs to true them up and it has totally eliminated the issue.

Interesting .... it appears this issue takes quite awhile .... I have over 45,000mi on orig OEM disc's and no vibes etc. ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[PinkRosePetal]

Interesting .... it appears this issue takes quite awhile .... I have over 45,000mi on orig OEM disc's and no vibes etc. ...... Mike :thumbup:

Well good for you.

But the issue redneck diva describes, of severe vibration under heavy braking, is exactly what a squint hub face will produce. I guess the degree of inaccuracy of the hub flange will determine the length of time it takes to wear a disc to the point of it noticeably grabbing.

I've machined one hub at only 4500miles, the others have been approximately 17000miles. In all cases the disc run-out was about 10thou. (0.010") before machining.

As I mentioned, the quick fix is to replace the disc but it will occur again as the miles build up.

Replacing the hub would be a solution but there's no guarantee that the replacement will be accurate.

 

[Freddy]

PRP, I have replaced the discs on my GS a few times over the years now for shudder, only to have it return. Your observations are most informative. When the shudder develops again to the extent 'I can't take it any more' I'll measure the discs as you suggest and see what story it tells. :2thumbs: :cheers:

 

[BajaRon]

If you do decide to replace the rotors. Do not get OEM. They are expensive and prone to warpage. I've had some customers who are on their 3rd or even 4th replacement, and decided to go with EBC. Never had another problem. You do have to purchase 2 if you upgrade the front. But for most, 2 EBC rotors cost about the same as 1 OEM. Sometimes 2 EBC are less than 1 OEM.

 

[Freestylemike]

How did you machine the hubs? Do you have to remove them from the bike? My 2015 F3 has this problem and I’m on my 3rd rotor. I put foil tape between the rotor and hub At the low point to temporarily correct the alignment. My last set of ebc rotors didn’t make it 5k miles

 

[PinkRosePetal]

How did you machine the hubs? Do you have to remove them from the bike? My 2015 F3 has this problem and I’m on my 3rd rotor. I put foil tape between the rotor and hub At the low point to temporarily correct the alignment. My last set of ebc rotors didn’t make it 5k miles

That's a bummer, 5k is really short you must have a bad case of inaccuracy. I did machine one bike at 4k because of a judder, the disc runout was 10 thou before machining but only 1 thou afterwards so the OEM disc appears to have stayed reasonably unworn during that time.

Yes you do need to remove the hubs from the bike. The studs need to be pushed out or tapped out using a softer metal drift. The hub needs to be mounted in a lathe with support by the tailstock and carefully adjusted to ensure the bearing surfaces are running dead true. The front hub face can then be skimmed using a round nosed tool. The inner radius of the hub is hardened so you can only skim up to the edge of the hardening. A round nosed tool is necessary to prevent having a sharp internal corner at the end of the machining, this prevents the formation of a stress raiser. There is a chamfer on the inside of the disc centre hole so machining up to the hardening gives plenty of clearance. The depth of cut for the machining is very small since the out of true in only a few thousandths of an inch.

My take on why this issue arises: During manufacture it appears the whole of the hub is machined to final dimensions with the exception of the bearing mounting surfaces. The hub is then heat treated and the final surface finish is applied. The hub is then remounted and the bearing mounting surfaces are carefully machined to final dimensions. Any dimensional change during heat treating or any inaccuracy in remounting in the machine will result in inaccuracy because the front face of the hub is not remachined to be true to the bearing surfaces. There plainly is risk of dimensional changes otherwise the bearing mounting faces could be taken to their final size without the necessity to remount the hub and do a final grind to size.

The fix is to final face the hub in the same machining process as the final bearing machining. So, BRP, there you have it. You can have that solution for free!