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front end "tank slap" issues at triples

Never had any tank-slap or whatever you want to call it - and have been up to 128 on my Spyder.

Considering you're racing, blowing pipes, and now this problem - did you ever stop and think that maybe you're wanting more out of the Spyder than it was designed for? It's not a racing bike and wasn't built for suspended speeds over 100 mph.

Maybe you should look into a Hayabusa trike instead - which will give you the power and speed you seem to want. It just seems that you are not happy with your Spyder - and won't be considering the things you wish to do with it.
 
Firefly said:
Never had any tank-slap or whatever you want to call it - and have been up to 128 on my Spyder.

Considering you're racing, blowing pipes, and now this problem - did you ever stop and think that maybe you're wanting more out of the Spyder than it was designed for? It's not a racing bike and wasn't built for suspended speeds over 100 mph.

Maybe you should look into a Hayabusa trike instead - which will give you the power and speed you seem to want. It just seems that you are not happy with your Spyder - and won't be considering the things you wish to do with it.
Click to expand...


hahah, I would not be riding this if I was not hurt, I have had landing gear on my zx12rr but it is just too dicey. I wish to god I would been going too fast when I got in accident because I would be dead or not hurt so save your too fast for me attitude. Again read the first post. And again "speed" is a relative term, to valentino Rossi (moto gp great if ya don't know) 100mph is a slow corner, to most rocket riders it is 2nd gear. to a lumber wagon cruiser that is FAST.

The spyder has some flaws and was rushed into production, I AM in the vast minority of spyder riders but instead of whining about me driving it harder than you,you should be thanking me for giving you the information that you know IF you run the spyder to this point this has a chance of happening.IF I would have come on here and saw that someone had blew a two bros and yosh exhaust when riding it hard then THAT information would have been applied to my current purchase of the leo vaince exhaust which is working out great right now ( ken at evio did say he has NEVER had one blew but if anyone could I would be the one to do it and he would replace it)

If I could find something else faster all around I would have it, a regular trike will tip when cornering hard and a TREX needs to be modified and it too much money. I know your ignorance of my situation leads you to believe you are helping me or helping someone NOT try what I do on my spyder but again read my first post, if you do not ride your spyder like me DO NOT TRY TO.

Now besides the shocks, the sway bar, the tire issue what else would change it from being smooth all the way up.
 
bone crusher said:
Seth,

Can you get assistance at the track and remove the chair? Then obviously have someone help you when you're done? This might help drag a little...
Click to expand...


They make me take the chair off at the track, the thing I forgot to mention was that it I get stuck behind a semi and am passing them on a 4 lane when I got thru the turbulance of the trailer it makes the issue worse so especially it I slow down the "wash" which makes me think more it is the shocks are the issue
 
Peace my friend---- It just seems like you are not very happy with your Spyder purchase - perhaps because of your unique wants out of a stable trike.

Maybe for your harder riding style - one of these would be a better choice?

http://reversetrike.com/spinwurkz.html

Hope you find what you're looking for - I really do-- but please be careful out there and remember that when riding at 100+mph on a regular basis, it is not just yourself that you are putting at risk.
 
http://reversetrike.com/spinwurkz.html

Cool, but it needs some sort of faring to cover all that pipe work on the front.
I do agree with Firefly, maybe you should be looking at somthing like this SethO. I've got nothing against you giving the Spyder a fare caining but I feel the Spyder is more of cruise machine :doorag:
 
Seth,
It sounds like you are lifting in the front end. Try setting the rear all the way up and the front down a couple of notches. Give it a try and if it's too soft in front go up but not all the way. Try to shift the weight with the ride angle. You can watch the shocks and see if you have a bad one if it appears to rebound slower than the other.

Wear should be inherent to the speed you drive. The faster you go the lower the front end thus giving you a negative camber most of the time. Negative camber is not a bad thing however too much could be putting your tire on the inner tread at all times. If you are running on the corners of your tires then it would also act irratic as you wouldn't have enough contact with the pavement.

You will have to consider the down force and weight to determine how to set your camber or tire pressure. Having a higher pressure would also give you a rounder tire and feel like you have more contact under high downforce.
 
When you mentioned "turbulence" when passing . . . .

REPOPS said:
Seth,
It sounds like you are lifting in the front end.
Click to expand...

. . . I thought what REPOPS wrote. I have never noticed that myself, but my experience is limited. Even when going in the 90s with high winds (gusts 30 to 50) I have not felt the Spyder lift, but it could have. As you know, there is a lot of stuff going on at that speed. My limitations are reached before the Sypder's are. Most of my high speeds are on interstate roads, not many curves there.

The shocks also sound like a good area to investigate. This may mean nothing, but when I picked up my Spyder, I drove it home about 550 miles. The flatbed trailer was rock steady all the way there and back with one exception. I was going about 80 ( that was the speed limit ) everything was fine and then I suddenly hit about 100 yards of bad/uneven road. Just as I got over it, I felt the trailer bouncing and starting to sway side to side. I only had time for a glance in the rearview mirror, but the Spyder was really moving and "tank slap" is a good description of what it looked like. The Spyder was absolutely secured to the trailer. It could not move in any direction, including up - I stopped right after this and all the straps were tight and just as I secured them. Also, the trailer was loaded "correctly" and was rated to carry over 4,000# at highway speeds.

The bottom line is that the Spyder's wheels never left the bed of the trailer or moved, but the body started dancing around - enough to start taking the trailer with it. The shocks and springs were working overtime - but once they started going, it kept going, long after the bad road ended and the speed dropped. So maybe the shocks are the weak link at the speeds and maneuvers you are running.

Tom
 
Firefly said:
Peace my friend---- It just seems like you are not very happy with your Spyder purchase - perhaps because of your unique wants out of a stable trike.

Maybe for your harder riding style - one of these would be a better choice?

http://reversetrike.com/spinwurkz.html

Hope you find what you're looking for - I really do-- but please be careful out there and remember that when riding at 100+mph on a regular basis, it is not just yourself that you are putting at risk.
Click to expand...

thanks for the link, I do understand your concern and don't drink anymore, text while driving or am over 80 years old and from working my job those things kill or injury more that speed. Believe me I am WAAAY more concerned about other people than myself. Risky passing, scaring the crap out of motorists that do not deserve it, fast night driving and putting my ego first are things I preach against to newer riders that i help out. "Ride your own bike" is a key thing I stress.

Things I buy I test, I want to know what they will and will not do, if I save just one person from getting hurt or on a lesser note save them some money on something they do not need or they buy something that helps them have a better spyder expirence then it is worth it to me.

"The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over" Hunter S. Thompson

I am kinda stuck hanging on that edge so yeah while I am waiting to get pulled back up or fall off I should be doing something that I am good at.
 
krb1945 said:
relays... I placed a piece of foam in the fuse/relay box top. Her relays were loose at 50 miles, as a matter of fact one was about to be completely out. When I checked them again at 300 miles they were loose again on the SE. That's when I put the foam in the tops. the relays have loosened again since. I don't remember who it was on this site that suggested the fix but I saw that fix right here. So who ever you are Kudo's to you for a good fix.
Click to expand...



I have done this well, if I let it tank slap for more than 5-10 seconds it would go into limp mode. the foam I put on was on the top of the fusebox, I should have put it acoss the relys themselves.
 
The more I think about it the more I think its shocks. Lets face it the stock shocks and bushings are cheap. When I raced I used to put a o-ring around the shock rod it will tell a lot about if the shocks are working the same on both sides and about compression. Nothing about rebound. springs are another question. I measured two "matching" springs once and they were 40lbs different. SethO I defiantly think your handling is from the shocks. And I think you need to check the toe.:2thumbs:
 
DannyS said:
The more I think about it the more I think its shocks. Lets face it the stock shocks and bushings are cheap. When I raced I used to put a o-ring around the shock rod it will tell a lot about if the shocks are working the same on both sides and about compression. Nothing about rebound. springs are another question. I measured two "matching" springs once and they were 40lbs different. SethO I defiantly think your handling is from the shocks. And I think you need to check the toe.:2thumbs:
Click to expand...
And look for worn shock bushings. They have worn out on a number of Spyders and are hard to spot. Also verify the condition of the tie rod ends and ball joints.
 
Seth just read this thread tonite mine has exact same symptoms and the severity varies with the crown in the road. The more crown the more speed wooble, I have yet to find a cause, but when it starts I lightly lift and then heavy accell and the weight transfer will sometimes help it stop. Yours may be worse than mine though cause it will not always do it and I can feel comin on now before its a problem. 106 and above are most often where I get it. Curious what windsheild are you using I was thinking my FIII slider could be adding enough downforce at speed :dontknow: let me know if you find a fix. I too exceed triples daily and enjoy and today I lifted at least 6-7 times do to this wobble. By no means knockin my Spyder just good:chat: to make it better:thumbup:
 
jedd said:
Seth just read this thread tonite mine has exact same symptoms and the severity varies with the crown in the road. The more crown the more speed wooble, I have yet to find a cause, but when it starts I lightly lift and then heavy accell and the weight transfer will sometimes help it stop. Yours may be worse than mine though cause it will not always do it and I can feel comin on now before its a problem. 106 and above are most often where I get it. Curious what windsheild are you using I was thinking my FIII slider could be adding enough downforce at speed :dontknow: let me know if you find a fix. I too exceed triples daily and enjoy and today I lifted at least 6-7 times do to this wobble. By no means knockin my Spyder just good:chat: to make it better:thumbup:
Click to expand...


I will check on the shock and bushings issues, I also will try the o ring trick.
It too bad that other people are having issues like this, I am going to upgrade shocks before I go to the salt flats in september, still need someone to to go with if anyone wants to go from the MN area get ahold of me on here.
 
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