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Friend concidering buying 2010 RT any advice?

Tazzel

New member
I have a friend considering purchasing a 2010 RT with 14k miles for a killer price. Can anyone out there speak about this year and model? is there anything to look out for? It will be out of warranty. I am having the local dealer run the vin, anything else?
 
V-TWIN RT

If No warranty available ......it could get very very expensive if something Major breaks......Low initial cost can be tempting but $1500 + repair bill will wipe that right out ...... good luck, .......Mike :thumbup:
 
I had a 2010 rt and it was a great bike, but I had a warranty and was glad I did. I replaced the air shock and the brake fluid reservoir, which would have been costly.
Good luck.
 
I had one... :D
Throttle bodies went out twice
Throttle position sensor died once
Windshield strut busted once
Rear brakelight switch busted...

I loved every moment of ownership, but there were some tense moments... nojoke
 
I put over 36,000 miles on my Premier Edition 2010 RTS. No major issues.

I had the throttle body replaced because of "hot engine starts" issue.

The gas gauge was funky--as in needle drifting all over the place. Repair did not help, so I disconnected the gauges and went to the digital display--no issues after that.

I traded off the 2010 RT for the new 2014 with the 1330 engine. I do like that better, but still have a 2011 RT in my stable. Still going strong at 24,000 miles and no issues whatsoever.

Mike is right, a major repair will wipe out any savings (if it happens). Time to spin the roulette wheel. :roflblack::bbq::bbq::bbq:
 
look under the cycle , see if the plastic shields look like they are out of place or mis- aligned , if one side looks tucked in and other side looks like it is just hanging , with oil or fluid wet spots , something has been looked at and is expensive , or can -not be fixed easy ... wet spots under neath , skins look off ... check fluid levels if you take it for a drive , before and after , and check for drips again ....
 
Understand at expensive repairs when not covered under warranty but at 9800.00, any repairs will take some doing to get up to a new RT. Thanks for the heads up everyone in what to look for and feel for when going to take a look at the Spyder. She understands it is an entry level Spyder for her. Not looking at high-end yet. But at this price she will not have as much invested if she decides that she does not like it or wants go to the 1330 and hopefully sell the 2010 for close to what she paid for it.
 
Understand at expensive repairs when not covered under warranty but at 9800.00, any repairs will take some doing to get up to a new RT. Thanks for the heads up everyone in what to look for and feel for when going to take a look at the Spyder. She understands it is an entry level Spyder for her. Not looking at high-end yet. But at this price she will not have as much invested if she decides that she does not like it or wants go to the 1330 and hopefully sell the 2010 for close to what she paid for it.

Looks like a great deal.
 
For that kind of money: wish him the best of luck from all of us, and we can't wait for him to show off his new bike in here! :2thumbs:
 
Still have our 2010 RTS with 61,500 miles. Running great, and have had to replace/fix 1) windshield center support with "NoBoots" billet aluminum support, 2) mirror attachment plastic tab that screws onto mirror and interfaces with upper metal post, 3) RH fender bracket (weld crack), 4) air compressor (noisy & blew fuses).

She's barely broken in! Love it more and more with every ride.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My first was a 2010 RT and it had an issue every 3K miles. My 2014 has been very dependable and is a far better ride as well.
 
looks like no spyder. Setting up time and place to look at the for sale spyder, all going well, all questions asked and answered. Last question was VIN number request so I could check with nearest Spyder dealer on repairs and recalls. Owner said that he would get that for me and then dropped all communications.
 
:shocked: It sounds as if there may have been some shenanigans occurring...
It's a good thing that your friend didn't get caught in a potential mess.
There'll be other bikes, and one of them will turn out to be THE one! :thumbup:
 
While buying private may be a little cheaper, going through a dealer and getting a warranty is a much better choice.
 
looks like no spyder. Setting up time and place to look at the for sale spyder, all going well, all questions asked and answered. Last question was VIN number request so I could check with nearest Spyder dealer on repairs and recalls. Owner said that he would get that for me and then dropped all communications.

Never buy a bike you can't see in person and have checked out. Ideally, at a dealership with a good reputation or by an experienced tech. There are a lot of scams out there.
 
looks like no spyder. Setting up time and place to look at the for sale spyder, all going well, all questions asked and answered. Last question was VIN number request so I could check with nearest Spyder dealer on repairs and recalls. Owner said that he would get that for me and then dropped all communications.

It appears that you may have been saved from either a scam or getting stuck with a machine with a history of troubles.

There are more out there, but this one may not be the one for you.
 
fuel gauge, how did you reset it to read digital please?

I put over 36,000 miles on my Premier Edition 2010 RTS. No major issues.

I had the throttle body replaced because of "hot engine starts" issue.

The gas gauge was funky--as in needle drifting all over the place. Repair did not help, so I disconnected the gauges and went to the digital display--no issues after that.

I traded off the 2010 RT for the new 2014 with the 1330 engine. I do like that better, but still have a 2011 RT in my stable. Still going strong at 24,000 miles and no issues whatsoever.

Mike is right, a major repair will wipe out any savings (if it happens). Time to spin the roulette wheel. :roflblack::bbq::bbq::bbq:

can you please tell me how you disconnected fuel gauge and made it to digital?
 
can you please tell me how you disconnected fuel gauge and made it to digital?

You simply remove the four screws on the dash, remove the wires from both analog gauges (yes, you have to disconnect on either side) and voila, the digital display in the center will show you the fuel level. You do lose the temperature level on the right side, but that usually doesn't affect anyone.
 
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