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FOWARD SPROCKET PROBLEM

you24824

New member
I noticed that my belt alignment was off, so I tryed center it. That's when I found that the problem was not in the back, but the front. The bolt was off the shaft. Anyone had this problem? My Spyder is an 08, if that makes any difference. I don't see any treads in the hole. Did it shear off? Need a little help here. Thanks:dontknow:
 
This is a known problem. There is a service bulletin calling for the bolts to be retorqued and marked. If I remember right this service is at 3,000 miles. Hopefully yours was merely a problem with loss of the bolts and replacement will cure it.

It could also be a problem with sprocket and/or drive shaft wear and spline failure. That creates a loose sprocket, and the wobbling sprocket can break or loosen the bolt. Excessive belt tensions initially specified by BRP helped aggravate this failure. There is also a service bulletin on the belt tension. One of the problems with owners doing their own maintenance exclusively is that these bulletin repairs and procedures are never applied, because they are unknown to many owners.

Time to order and replace the bolt if you have the proper tools. The sprocket/shaft fit should also be carefully checked and any problems corrected. The belt tension should be set to the current spec with a sonic meter. It's time to see a dealer, IMO.
 
my front sprocket came off 85 miles from home. 72k on it at the time.

180 tow and then a $600 bill to replace the sprocket, nut and washer plus a new belt

2008 pe # 1004 i will have the bolt torqued at every oil change from now on.
 
my front sprocket came off 85 miles from home. 72k on it at the time.

180 tow and then a $600 bill to replace the sprocket, nut and washer plus a new belt

2008 pe # 1004 i will have the bolt torqued at every oil change from now on.
I drilled the bolt head and safety wired mine
 
I drilled the bolt head and safety wired mine


:agree:
Aviation bolts usually have drilled heads for this very reason. Pretty much everything on an airplane/helicopter is put together with the thought of "vibration will loosen this". If this is a known problem as Scotty suggests, then using safety wire to wire the bolt heads is the solution.

Nice Job!!!
 
:agree:
Aviation bolts usually have drilled heads for this very reason. Pretty much everything on an airplane/helicopter is put together with the thought of "vibration will loosen this". If this is a known problem as Scotty suggests, then using safety wire to wire the bolt heads is the solution.

Nice Job!!!
I agree that safety wire may be a good thing. It can eliminate the possibility of losing the bolt. It will not eliminate the need to retorque at 3,000 miles on the early Spyders, or the possibility of sprocket/shaft spine damage if the belt tension is too tight. As far as retorquing, the early shafts did not have the splines broached deep enough. That bottomed the sprockets out on the tapered part at the end of the splines. As the sprocket wore into that area, it became loose and needed to be retorqued to seat it again. Loose sprockets accelerated spline wear and sprocket failure. The belt tension issue was addressed in two separate reductions of the specification. Most owners have had their belts retensioned...but not all of them. If anyone has not done this on a 2008-2010 Spyder, they really should see a dealer ASAP.
 
Bill, long time no see. Haven't seen you since we moved from Pittsburg.

Anyway, my sprocket failed at about 45k miles. Bolt was torqued down okay, the teeth were eaten out and the shaft wasn't turning it anymore.

Another rider from my group lost her sprocket in Bay Point when exiting the freeway. She has a 2009 GS. ..

Al's Spyder had his belt too tight (old spec) and his countershaft balance bearing was blown and out was spewing oil. He has a 2008 GS.

And a third rider from my group didn't make it home from SpyderFest for the same problem as Al and his Spyder has been in the shop having the engine rebuilt since May. He has a 2008 GS.

The moral of the story? This is a common occurrence. Make sure the belt is tightened to the new spec and the bolt is torqued properly.
 
My wife's 2008 GS had loose sproket after Durango, 56,000 miles. Because dealer retorqued bolt when serviced, the pulley (possibly loose anyway) wore in closer to the motor, thereby the bolt bottomed on the shaft leaving the pulley loose. The Brp tech said to use green loctite on the shaft and pulley and use red loctite onthe bolt. We also shortened the shaft by about 3/32 so the bolt would tighten on the pulley and not the shaft. Also old school mechanic increased torgue on bolt to 95-100fp as per strength of the bolt. No more scarery noises.
 
....Also old school mechanic increased torgue on bolt to 95-100fp as per strength of the bolt. No more scurry noises....

:lecturef_smilie:

Not a recommended practice.

It is not necessarily the bolt as much as it is the material you are tightening it into you have to worry about. Stripping the threads on a bolt that has a hardening strength less than the hole is better than the other way around! A bolt stripping out a hole will likely cause major headaches (i.e. you then have to over size the hole w/o compromising the surrounding component or voiding the warranty) :banghead:.

Drilled headed bolts w/safetywire is the safest and proven way to go. BUT, the cheapest way to go is using a stronger level of loctite vs over-torquing the bolt.
 
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