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fouled spark plug

aka1004

Active member
i've having problem with popping, missing, bad mpg, and i checked the y-gaskets and pulled out my spark plugs.
do these look like they are fouled? these are 1200 miles old...
oh, and left clamp on y-pipe was loose and that probably was leaking.

new fan is working really really good. if you live in hot climate, and having ANY overheating issue, ask your dealer.
 
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How many miles are on thse plugs? The top plug doesn't look so great, but the bottom one doesn't look too bad. I have certainly seen worse, Again, knowing how old these are would help.
 
Top one looks a little suspect. Bottom one looks good - should be about the color of cardboard.

:agree: Oh, and sorry I didn't see the 1200 miles on the original post. Was too busy looking at the plugs! :opps: There have been some others that have had similar symptoms and the y-gaskets were the culprit as I recall. They replaced the BRP parts with Honda gaskets. Apparently they are better pieces...
 
:agree: Oh, and sorry I didn't see the 1200 miles on the original post. Was too busy looking at the plugs! :opps: There have been some others that have had similar symptoms and the y-gaskets were the culprit as I recall. They replaced the BRP parts with Honda gaskets. Apparently they are better pieces...

others had similar problems, hmm, makes sense.
the top plug IS from the left side where clamp was loose.
i guess leaking exhaust began to cause popping and eventually fouling the plug and spyder began to run rough,missing and only got 15 miles to the gallon...
thanks guys and man i hope the dealer has a clamp in stock.:pray:
for some reason thread on left clamp is messed up and i need a new one.

oh by the way, i added the 1200 mile on original post after you asked how many miles i had on them.:D
 
Yeah.. That top plug looks like it could use replacing. Not sure that was only from the loose pipe as I had a slightly bad y gasket and both plugs looked just fine.

Interesting on the loose pipe...Had you replaced the y gaskets recently as well? I'm wondering if maybe that side wasn't tightened enough from the start...
 
Yeah.. That top plug looks like it could use replacing. Not sure that was only from the loose pipe as I had a slightly bad y gasket and both plugs looked just fine.

Interesting on the loose pipe...Had you replaced the y gaskets recently as well? I'm wondering if maybe that side wasn't tightened enough from the start...

both plugs and gaskets were replaced 1200 miles ago and i do remember clamp being tight, may be too tight. i don't know how but thread is totally messed up and clamp is just dangling there.
in any case, hopely dealer would have a clamp in stock and with new plugs, problem would go away.:pray:
 
Top plug is dead, obviously wet fouled. Needs replacement. This problem is hard to cause with a loose exhaust clamp...especially on a machine without separate O2 sensors for each cylinder. I would suspect a bad spark plug wire or a loose one.
 
Sometimes a plug will just go bad, Been there had that happen:yikes:
I don't see how a lose exhaust clamp can cause that.?
Then again i could be wrong, Just ask my Wife she'll say I'm wrong quite often! :(
 
i checked the spark plug cable by removing the panels and start when it's dark and did not see any arcing. cable does not snap on crisp like the right side but does not seem to be loose. after i get the clamp on on left y, we shall see if it happens again. none of the dealer had the clamp in stock but i found something similar i can use and probably replace without taking the pipes down.

i am getting that popping thru the throttle body a member had describe before when i give it gas on low rpm.
hopely, that will go away when i am done.
 
What did you find to use for a clamp? I have a messed up one as well. It seems to be holding for now, but I figure it is just a matter of time.
 
:2thumbs:

Thanks for the info! Since this is stainless, I will probably order 2 of them and just replace the BRP ones.

Out of curiosity, how much does the BRP clamp cost from your dealer?

17 bucks for brp clamp.
if i had time, i would not have used this clamp with t-bolt.
you turn the nut to tighten not the bolt like brp clamp or other motorcycle clamp. it's easier to turn the bolt because of the limited room and after certain point you have to use a wrench to turn, when length of the bolt thru the nut is longer than your socket. when brp clamp comes, i am going to replace it and may be keep t-bolt clamp as spare.
 
:2thumbs:

Thanks for the info! Since this is stainless, I will probably order 2 of them and just replace the BRP ones.

Out of curiosity, how much does the BRP clamp cost from your dealer?

something like this was what i wanted to get.
i did not have much confidence in that t-bolt clamp so i talked to dynojet see if they had some in their shop and close enough!!! after all, circumstantial evidences points to dynojet messing up the clamp(i had just replaced the gaskets before spyder went in and i know clamp was tight and they had to take the y-pipe off to weld the bung for autotune and now thread is stripped and clamp is loose) but i did not wanted to bring it up but had no choice as i just could not find the right clamp.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the tightening of the nut issue. I will contact a dealer and ask him to order a new BRP one and ship it to me instead then. I appreciate your help, and especially your honesty, with this as well. :thumbup:
 
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