Flanker
New member
The first few mods were over priced (as is everything BRP) and easy to install.
BRP Spoiler (it's the smallest of the three optional windshields and is more analogous to a string bikini
[not much there] than a windshield).
BRP SS Grill (love the bright orange trim bar---which is on it's death bed--------it just doesn't know it yet!)
BRP Attitude Bars to suit my 34 inch (sleeve) ape arms.
BRP #1 shift/brake lever kit [heavier than they need to be and NOT adjustable-------the foot pegs are adjustable-----------right?
]
BRP Chopped R Fender looks great, fits well, grossly over priced---the FLanker Original Products (FLOP) chopped fender on my old RSS cost me less than $20.00 to fab up and worked just as well.
Shift and Brake levers----it makes absolutely NO sense for BRP to emphasize the U Fit system in their adverts, and make it a selling point------then NOT make the shift & brake levers adjustable to go with the BIG DEAL adjustable foot pegs. U Fit is a good idea, system, and selling point! Then BRP completely dropped the ball with non adjustable levers. Mount the levers on a splined shaft with a pinch bolt, and equip all the linkage bars with threaded rods and a lock nut behind the front clevis! DUH!!!! And why are the pegs and levers so :cus: large??!! Has a Bigfoot or Yeti bought any Spyders lately??!! :joke: Didn't think so.
Sssssssooooooo...................a morning at a local Fab Shop, some cut off wheel action, throw in some TIG arcin' and sparkin', poison the atmosphere with some rattle can primer, and Ford dark metallic gray--------voila! Those rascals are moved way inboard, and are angled much more forward (so I don't have to pretend I have Harry Houdini's ankles (which I don't), and they almost look like they're the same color as the foot peg rails (ended up being a lot closer to the engine case cover than the rails---oh well)!
Oh yea..................in addition; while the after market adjustable kit linkage kit is no doubt a good bit of kit; this mod ended up being a lot cheaper.
The TBR S1R slip on exhaust was for 2015-2017 F3 Ss-----fit my '18 just fine though there was about a eighth of an inch more of the BRP donut gasket (between the BRP collector pipe and the TBR S [cat delete] pipe) showing, so stretching the springs to connect the two pipes was "challenging" (taking your vitamins and having a generous supply of unChristianly language on hand helps!). At least I felt better anyway! :joke: The muffler only comes in satin polish natural stainless steel, so I took it to a local coating shop, where they bead blasted the finish (they managed to nick the TBR Logo with the beads in two places--two layers of carefully cut duct tape would have prevented that, but what do I know) before spraying on a flat black ceramic coat (the darn stuff isn't baked on, but has to air dry for 5 days!). Sounds great, low and throaty. Quiet at idle and and cruising, and really snarls when you jump into the injectors! I used a very similar system on my old RSS, and it was way too loud out of the box. Even with the accessory P1X tip installed it was still too loud for my taste. Sssssooooo after a fair bit of viewing You Tube F3 S exhaust vids, some excellent advice and experience commentary from Hypurone (and others), and kicking the game around with Techs at both TBR and HMF----I installed the P1X tip from the get go, and one of those "can opener" universal baffles (NOTE: If you're going to use one of these--they come in three different diameters [1.5, 1.75, & 2 inch), so make sure you get one that is mated to your chosen systems s pipe ID!). The darn big end of the baffle was a hair smaller than the ID of my S pipe inlet (dropped all the way inside to the S bend). So I took a flat tipped metal punch and hammer, and used them to install four dimples (from the inside out) near the lip of the big end. Worked great! One good tap with a hammer on the end of a large socket drove the baffle into place right about where the front spring loops are in the photo below. No rattling baffle for Flanker!
BRP Spoiler (it's the smallest of the three optional windshields and is more analogous to a string bikini
[not much there] than a windshield).BRP SS Grill (love the bright orange trim bar---which is on it's death bed--------it just doesn't know it yet!)
BRP Attitude Bars to suit my 34 inch (sleeve) ape arms.
BRP #1 shift/brake lever kit [heavier than they need to be and NOT adjustable-------the foot pegs are adjustable-----------right?
] BRP Chopped R Fender looks great, fits well, grossly over priced---the FLanker Original Products (FLOP) chopped fender on my old RSS cost me less than $20.00 to fab up and worked just as well.
Shift and Brake levers----it makes absolutely NO sense for BRP to emphasize the U Fit system in their adverts, and make it a selling point------then NOT make the shift & brake levers adjustable to go with the BIG DEAL adjustable foot pegs. U Fit is a good idea, system, and selling point! Then BRP completely dropped the ball with non adjustable levers. Mount the levers on a splined shaft with a pinch bolt, and equip all the linkage bars with threaded rods and a lock nut behind the front clevis! DUH!!!! And why are the pegs and levers so :cus: large??!! Has a Bigfoot or Yeti bought any Spyders lately??!! :joke: Didn't think so.
Sssssssooooooo...................a morning at a local Fab Shop, some cut off wheel action, throw in some TIG arcin' and sparkin', poison the atmosphere with some rattle can primer, and Ford dark metallic gray--------voila! Those rascals are moved way inboard, and are angled much more forward (so I don't have to pretend I have Harry Houdini's ankles (which I don't), and they almost look like they're the same color as the foot peg rails (ended up being a lot closer to the engine case cover than the rails---oh well)!
Oh yea..................in addition; while the after market adjustable kit linkage kit is no doubt a good bit of kit; this mod ended up being a lot cheaper.
The TBR S1R slip on exhaust was for 2015-2017 F3 Ss-----fit my '18 just fine though there was about a eighth of an inch more of the BRP donut gasket (between the BRP collector pipe and the TBR S [cat delete] pipe) showing, so stretching the springs to connect the two pipes was "challenging" (taking your vitamins and having a generous supply of unChristianly language on hand helps!). At least I felt better anyway! :joke: The muffler only comes in satin polish natural stainless steel, so I took it to a local coating shop, where they bead blasted the finish (they managed to nick the TBR Logo with the beads in two places--two layers of carefully cut duct tape would have prevented that, but what do I know) before spraying on a flat black ceramic coat (the darn stuff isn't baked on, but has to air dry for 5 days!). Sounds great, low and throaty. Quiet at idle and and cruising, and really snarls when you jump into the injectors! I used a very similar system on my old RSS, and it was way too loud out of the box. Even with the accessory P1X tip installed it was still too loud for my taste. Sssssooooo after a fair bit of viewing You Tube F3 S exhaust vids, some excellent advice and experience commentary from Hypurone (and others), and kicking the game around with Techs at both TBR and HMF----I installed the P1X tip from the get go, and one of those "can opener" universal baffles (NOTE: If you're going to use one of these--they come in three different diameters [1.5, 1.75, & 2 inch), so make sure you get one that is mated to your chosen systems s pipe ID!). The darn big end of the baffle was a hair smaller than the ID of my S pipe inlet (dropped all the way inside to the S bend). So I took a flat tipped metal punch and hammer, and used them to install four dimples (from the inside out) near the lip of the big end. Worked great! One good tap with a hammer on the end of a large socket drove the baffle into place right about where the front spring loops are in the photo below. No rattling baffle for Flanker!
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