First New Dealer Test - Passed

[SpyderWolf]

For those who don't know, the dealership we used to do business with closed. Their corporate headquarters in Florida decided they were no longer going to deal in metrics, and consequently shuttered quite a few dealerships. We have been on the hunt for a new one to do business with. I have been trying to think of tests that I could give them to see how well they perform, and whether we can trust them with our Spyders.

For the first test I decided to ask them to adjust the shocks on my Spyder to their highest setting. I know this is something I could have tried myself, but I do not have a floor jack yet and have read stories about others on here breaking the adjustment cams as well. We arrived at the dealer and I asked them to perform the shock adjustment. After about 30 minutes, one of the sales people comes to me and says: "They got your one front shock adjusted, but when trying to adjust the other one the cam broke". At this point I did not know what to expect. He then asked me to help him get the double doors open for the front of the dealership so he could get out one of the Spyders that was sitting on the showroom floor. That Spyder became the donor of one shock for my Spyder. It took about another hour, but they got me back on the road and heading home. They charged me the normal labor rate, so the bill was $75, and said they would get a new shock for their Spyder under the warranty. I was satisfied with that, and much happier that they broke the cam instead of me breaking it.

I still have at least 3 other dealers I want to visit. Each one is at least 1.5 hours away, but all in opposite directions of each other. Hopefully I will find a couple of other good ones as well, so we have more options in the future.

The only real issue now is I need to come up with some more tests for them. Doc suggested disconnecting a vacuum line, which sounds like a good idea, but I don't want to ryde it far like that. So, I will need to know what the symptoms of that are and then I will disconnect it about 5 miles out and give them the symptons when I get to the dealership.

Anyone else have any ideas for a couple of other tests?

 

[ntxYguy2009]

Spyderwolf,

Here are some ideas that I could think of:

1. Disconnect a fuse.
2. Letting some air out of a front tire and complain about the Spyder drifting to that side.
3. Loosen the oil filler cap and then complain about oil leaks on the left side under the oil tank.
4. More serious test - loosen one of the spark plug wires and complain about the engine not running right.

David

 

[SpyderWolf]

Spyderwolf,

Here are some ideas that I could think of:

1. Disconnect a fuse.
2. Letting some air out of a front tire and complain about the Spyder drifting to that side.
3. Loosen the oil filler cap and then complain about oil leaks on the left side under the oil tank.
4. More serious test - loosen one of the spark plug wires and complain about the engine not running right.

David

Thanks for those suggestions David. :thumbup:

 

[RShrimp]

I would say this dealer is a keeper. I know it sounds like no big deal, but it is very very rare that a dealer will disable a new vehicle to rob a part to fix yours. ..... very, vary rare.
That gesture in it's self would make me go back there:2thumbs:

 

[Lamonster]

I would say this dealer is a keeper. I know it sounds like no big deal, but it is very very rare that a dealer will disable a new vehicle to rob a part to fix yours. ..... very, vary rare.
That gesture in it's self would make me go back there:2thumbs:

It's nice that he swapped out the shock for him but if he would of sprayed a little WD and jacked it up he could have saved himself a lot of trouble.

I say he get's a A for taking care of the customer but a D for adjusting the shocks. opcorn:

 

[RShrimp]

Ahhh! , I just learned something! Thank you!:bowdown:

 

[Tom in NM]

a couple of things . . . .

Anyone else have any ideas for a couple of other tests?

• Ask them for a BUDS printout on your Spyder.
  
• Also ask if they have a trailer that you can use to bring in your Spyder if you need to. Also, do they deliver?
  
• Ask what towing service they work with? Do they give you the # to call?
  
• Ask if they install 3rd Party Upgrades. (risers, NMN grenade launchers, new seats, LEDs, different tires) Listen for talk about "voiding the warranty" - yes in some cases, no in others.
  
• Ask what they would do for oil in the air box.
  
• Ask where they send their body and paint work.
  
• Also ask how many software updates that they have done on Spyders - and if they have had any 'problems'. Some dealers seem to have no problems doing the updates and others have quite a few. It is just a data point on how open they are and what they tell you about their experiences - it may also reveal their attitude/interest in Spyders.
  
• Appointments and Service While You Wait are also nice.
  
• Ask if you can meet their Spyder Tech - at one shop I used to got to, the tech would not EVER talk to a customer directly - even if you were standing right there. All dialogue was through a service consultant - who acted like an interpreter. It was surreal.

My family covers 3 generations of Auto Body Shops. From that, and my own personal experience, a good service shop is hard to find. I feel blessed that the one I have now for my Spyder is good and so is my local BMW Service Department. I have ever only found 2 good "brand name" car dealership service departments ( one in Houston TX and one in Ionia MI ). That is it. 4 for all the motorcycles and vehicles I have owned in about 42 years.

I don't try and hit them up for conversation or bug them - I just let them do their work - though I do like to observe how they work. BUT, these are the people whose work my a$$ and life are riding on - I do expect to be given enough info to have a level of confidence in their work - not just polite and courteous chatter and BS.

Despite my negative experiences with service departments, I do give them the Benefit of the Doubt - they have my trust from the start, but it is theirs to lose. You can learn a lot when you wait around on a busy morning while they do an oil change on your Spyder - if you pay attention and listen.

I am not as much into "testing" as I am into QA (quality assurance) - and that requires that I keep me up to speed on the work that needs to be done. "Testing" feels adversarial to me, where QA is an interest in the work and "due diligence". I guess that is how I like to be treated.

Tom

 

[NancysToy]

I agree with Tom. Also ask to see their tech's Spyder certification. If he earned it at the factory school, instead of using the videos, he gets extra points. If they have more than one certified Spyder tech, they get even more points. Ask if they have had any Spyders with steering issues...if they even are aware of them. I don't mean the steering recall. Finally, ask how many Spyders they have sold, and about how many they service in a period of time. Also check out their parts department and see if they carry the oil filter(s), O-ring, and crush washers for an oil change in stock. A poorly stocked dealer can be a pain in the caboose! A good dealer carries standard maintenance items.

 

[Firefly]

I agree with Tom. Also ask to see their tech's Spyder certification. If he earned it at the factory school, instead of using the videos, he gets extra points. If they have more than one certified Spyder tech, they get even more points. Ask if they have had any Spyders with steering issues...if they even are aware of them. I don't mean the steering recall. Finally, ask how many Spyders they have sold, and about how many they service in a period of time. Also check out their parts department and see if they carry the oil filter(s), O-ring, and crush washers for an oil change in stock. A poorly stocked dealer can be a pain in the caboose! A good dealer carries standard maintenance items.

:agree: With Scotty and Tom. Ask tons of questions.

Setting them up with self-induced failures is frankly silly and is wasting their time. They took good care of you on the shock thing - why not give them the benefit of doubt and use them? If they give you a problem - then you can 'fire' them.

 

[WaltH]

:agree: With Scotty and Tom. Ask tons of questions.

Setting them up with self-induced failures is frankly silly and is wasting their time. They took good care of you on the shock thing - why not give them the benefit of doubt and use them? If they give you a problem - then you can 'fire' them.

I agree with Firefly.

I always like to know who is working on my bike and, if I am satisfied, I want the same person to do the work each time. If they have a Spyder specialist, I would start there. The bigger problem for me is when I am on the road. In a strange dealership you pretty much have no idea of who is working on your bike and if this person is any good at it.

Give them a chance and cut them some slack. You will know after a few visits, if you think they are any good.

 

[SpyderWolf]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions everyone.

They said they jacked the Spyder up to adjust the shocks, but did not mention if they attempted to use any lube or not before starting.

They also said their tech is certified, but I did not know anything about the certificate to ask to see it.

They actually had a much better Spyder part and accessory selection than our last dealer, at least that I could see with the naked eye. I actually believe I saw some replacement drive belts on the rack behind the counter which was quite unexpected.

Tom, those are some great suggestions and I am definitely leaning towards those and what the others have posted as well. I do not want to be adversarial at all, I have just heard a few horror stories and want to be more safe than sorry.

I asked them if they had heard anything about the latest steering issues and the guy I was talking to said no. To give them the benefit of the doubt, he was not one of the techs but the same sales guy that took the donor Spyder off the showroom floor. They had an RT-S, and 3 2009 Spyders in the showroom at the time.

Although I did not get to see their actual service bays, and witness them working on my Spyder, the mechanic did come talk to me after everything was done. He brought out the broken cam and explained what went wrong. They also offered to set up an appointment to adjust my parking brake as he said it takes too many clicks to set it right now, but they did not have the time to do the work right then as other machines were still waiting for their scheduled service.

I will definitely use this dealer again, as I feel they treated me right. I am still planning on checking out a few others though. That way I can have a back up plan for just about anywhere I may be in a 3-4 hour radius from my house. Outside that area I will just have to pay my money and take my chances.

Thanks again for all the input, it is truly appreciated. :2thumbs:

 

[TexasTripod]

New Dealer Test

It's nice that he swapped out the shock for him but if he would of sprayed a little WD and jacked it up he could have saved himself a lot of trouble.

I say he get's a A for taking care of the customer but a D for adjusting the shocks. opcorn:

I totally agree!! If my Dealership mechanic had not been illiterate then MAYBE: (1) He would have put in FOUR QTS. of oil instead of three when I brought the Spyder in for its initial service! Heck even I can read the manual! (2) He would not have inflated the front tires to 35 pounds when swapping them to my new rims. (3) He would have balanced the tires when performing the rim swap. (4) He would not have torqued the rims to 95 ft.lbs. Spec is 77 I believe. (5) He tightened the crankcase drain-plug so tight that I had to use a hammer an chisel to remove it when I did my own oil change. Needless to say this Dealership will not touch my Spyder now that I'm having the steering issues like others are having!!

 

[Lamonster]

It's nice that he swapped out the shock for him but if he would of sprayed a little WD and jacked it up he could have saved himself a lot of trouble.

I say he get's a A for taking care of the customer but a D for adjusting the shocks. opcorn:

I might add that the adjuster should have never broke in the first place. :gaah:

This has been a problem from day one and BRP is well aware of it, I'm not sure why they don't use a billet adjuster to start with. I know they must have a pile of broken adjusters on some BRP guys desk.
http://spyder.brp.com/GearsAccessories/en-US/Product-Detail/219400121

I forget sometimes that most dealers don't read our boards and know as much as we do about some of the common issues we see here. :sour:

• 

 

[Lamonster]

This is the one that broke on my RT.

 

[SpyderWolf]

Lamont, mine was actually broken in half. When the mechanic came out to talk to me he brought both pieces to show me how they were supposed to fit together on the shock. I am not even sure what kind of metal it was cast out of, as it was extremely lightweight and did not feel like it could withstand much "abuse" at all.

I also like all of the little Billet accessories BRP has for the Spyder, and wish they would have come standard instead of having to pay close to $100 for each little piece you may want to replace.

 

[j45p3r]

Must have been a bit of a surprise when that cam let go.

 

[Way2Fast]

My thoughts on the matter are..... if a dealers service department damages any part while doing an adjustment or repair they should be responsible for making it right and not charging additional for the labor or for a replacement part. If you broke the adjuster while doing an adjustment yourself, you would be responsible for the replacement. Ditto for a dealer. A $70 charge for a shock adjustment is just crazy !!!:gaah:

 

[Tom in NM]

My thoughts on the matter are..... if a dealers service department damages any part while doing an adjustment or repair they should be responsible for making it right and not charging additional for the labor or for a replacement part. If you broke the adjuster while doing an adjustment yourself, you would be responsible for the replacement. Ditto for a dealer. A $70 charge for a shock adjustment is just crazy !!!:gaah:

:agree:

I forget sometimes that most dealers don't read our boards and know as much as we do about some of the common issues we see here. :sour:

:agree:
One thing that I do is print out a list of my concerns and/or descriptions of what I am experiencing, a "Punch List". If there has been a good posting on a particular issue here, I will attach that also. I try and make it as short, clear and concise as possible - just like most service departments don't have time to surf the boards, they don't have the time or inclination to read and sort through a bunch of writing. This Punch List helps me check to make sure that all the items I brought it in for are worked on - them too.

If you just say; "I read on the Internet that . . . . . ", they won't hear a thing you said after that and you will have damaged your credibility.

I always go through the Service Manual to see what is involved in what needs to be done - that helps me understand any explanations that they may give too and helps me to verify if the charges are in line with the BRP limits. If I (or you) get an explanation that does not make sense or seems out of line from what you have "heard", post it here - there is a wealth of information ( and even more opinion ) that will help make sense of it. That is one of the great benefits of SpyderLovers.com.

Tom

 

[SpyderWolf]

Thanks again for the added information. I also thought the $75 was high at first, but they had it in the shop for a half hour before that cam broke, and still had to adjust my rear cam as well. I cannot be certain they were working on it the entire time, but it appears I was charged less than 1 hour worth of labor. I believe this is still much cheaper than if I would have broken the cam myself.

 

[hondaman]

I think the adjusters are defective,I have adajusted all my atv adjusters and have never had one break all covered in mud on 10 bikes.They are the same.
If you go to get any service done make shure what you say is the problem is put on the repair order.Hot,cold,speed,whatever.I cant tell you how many times I have spent looking for a problem and find out 3 hrs later that something only happens when it is cold first thing in the morning.Not warm......If it was on the repair order it would have saved everyone time.
If they dont stock an oil filter and take more that 3-4 days to get most parts move on.