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Fell down and can't get up!!!

bobw2000

New member
No go. Got on the beast yesterday to fire it up and it wouldn't turn over. So thought maybe the battery needed some help. Hooked it up and waited. Hhhmmm , jumped on again turned the key ... nothing! No even the blue screen of death. Bought this used so figured maybe battery time. Started to pull the Battery and figured , ok , put the meter on it. Hhhmmm 12.4v. Now I'm scratchin my head. Pulled all the fuses and they checked ok. Put the key in again and watched really close... no dash lights, no pre start at all, one head light blinks on for a flash and then off again. Any ideas? This is a 2012 Spyder RT Limited. I should throw this in too i guess ... just had a key made so RideNow reprogramed the ignition and keys.
 
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Yep... the thing that gets me is when I turn the key I get this headlamp flash. Then it goes out. Like maybe a relay is not staying in.

Still think it is a battery with a internal problem, put a set of jumpers to it and see if it fires up, if so I probably would not ride it until I replaced the battery. Its your choice but I think yuasa batteries are worth the money.
 
Interesting..!!

you say you had a key coded..?? Exactly how was that done. Usually if done at a key store they need a good key to start with and they clone that one. If you started with a bad key the new one is bad as well. If done at the dealer by the numbers still need to be tested to the switch. If battery is good and connections tight fuses are good and in then the ignition switch is not working at all. Also on the RS's like mine the headlights don't come on till the engine starts unless you use the flash button. :dontknow:
 
Sounds like a classic battery issue. 12.9 is minimum cranking voltage for the Spyder battery. A weak battery can cause all sorts of odd things on the Spyder. Oh, and just to be on the safe side, check the kill switch too.
 
Sounds like a classic battery issue. 12.9 is minimum cranking voltage for the Spyder battery. A weak battery can cause all sorts of odd things on the Spyder. Oh, and just to be on the safe side, check the kill switch too.
Hooked up the charger to it for some help and it did bring the lights on with the dash. Still no crank. Gonna try it in the morning, if no success ill try the service department... hate goin that way. 12.9 min you say... didn't have that. Thanks....
 
you say you had a key coded..?? Exactly how was that done. Usually if done at a key store they need a good key to start with and they clone that one. If you started with a bad key the new one is bad as well. If done at the dealer by the numbers still need to be tested to the switch. If battery is good and connections tight fuses are good and in then the ignition switch is not working at all. Also on the RS's like mine the headlights don't come on till the engine starts unless you use the flash button. :dontknow:
Had a good key ... ( I hope ) worked before. took that key in and bought the new blank at the dealership. Ace cut the key and brought the bike and the keys back to the dealership for coding. Sure hope it's the battry. Thanks...
 
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Please let us know what it takes to get you, "Back on Three!" :2thumbs:
 

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FYI a bad battery can read a good voltage when not under load (key is off). Very common. However a bad battery once under load can drop voltage very low. So if your going to do a static battery test with a meter have the key on and see what it reads.

FYI changing the battery yourself on your 2012 is pretty easy.




Bob
 
Put your multi meter on it and turn on the key, watch the meter, then try to start it watching the meter. My guess like others is the battery has an internal short.
 
FYI a bad battery can read a good voltage when not under load (key is off). Very common. However a bad battery once under load can drop voltage very low. So if your going to do a static battery test with a meter have the key on and see what it reads.

FYI changing the battery yourself on your 2012 is pretty easy.




Bob

Put your multi meter on it and turn on the key, watch the meter, then try to start it watching the meter. My guess like others is the battery has an internal short.


:agree:I have had several car batteries that metered near perfect voltage. But it would not start the car.
 
FYI a bad battery can read a good voltage when not under load (key is off). Very common. However a bad battery once under load can drop voltage very low. So if your going to do a static battery test with a meter have the key on and see what it reads.

FYI changing the battery yourself on your 2012 is pretty easy.




Bob
Battery was bad... changed it. ( video helped alot... thks )...got it all back together. Now it's turn on the key, dash lights come on, friendly little beep happens, mode works, apply brake, hit the brake release button, check the kill switch, hit the start button..... nothing. Nothing seems to be pulling any volts down so that's where I am at right now. All the fuses seem good so I don't know.
 
OK... conclusion to the story at this point is this. The battery suggestions were a direct hit. That was the main culprite. So little over $100 dollars for the battery got the electrical working. Since I have never owned a Spyder before I had nothing to compare this to I was handicapped. Next ... why won't it start with everything working right. Figured everything must be electrically working right so I gave it one more shot. Solution... seems that some how my brake peddle moved out of adjustment. When I exaggerated my pressure on the peddle, that is I moved way forward on the end and the starter engaged. Don't know whether to be embarrassed or astounded... such a small adjustment really compounded my problems. So... still taking it in for full diagnostics. Thanks everyone for your comments... you all have been a great help.:clap:
 
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OK... conclusion to the story at this point is this. The battery suggestions were a direct hit. That was the main culprite. So little over $100 dollars for the battery got the electrical working. Since I have never owned a Spyder before I had nothing to compare this to I was handicapped. Next ... why won't it start with everything working right. Figured everything must be electrically working right so I gave it one more shot. Solution... seems that some how my brake peddle moved out of adjustment. When I exaggerated my pressure on the peddle, that is I moved way forward on the end and the starter engaged. Don't know whether to be embarrassed or astounded... such a small adjustment really compounded my problems. So... still taking it in for full diagnostics. Thanks everyone for your comments... you all have been a great help.:clap:
I final note: The dealership where I purchased my ride ( Ride Now Surprise, AZ on Bell Rd. ) has completely changed management. A house cleaning you might say.Am I empressed. These people changed my attitude toward their business and their service. The service dept people Tony and Tache knew exactly what was going on. An hour diagnosics fron Keith the mechanic and I am really happy. Even the new manager of the whole place was out there making sure everything was fine. Can't beat that folks.... My trust and confidence have totally been restored.
 
New Management at Ride Now?? Does that mean new Service Dept Staff and a new Mechanic?? :hun:

If not, you've gotta assume that they are all the same people who worked there under the old regime & 'provided' the old style crappy service :p and that just shows how the management ethos spreads throughout the whole organisation! :opps: Good management & a clearly articulated aim of providing quality Customer Service CAN make a vast difference to the way staff perform! :thumbup:

Now, I just wonder how we can drive the same sort of change here in South Aust?? You guys aren't the only people to experience crappy Dealer issues!! :gaah::mad:
 
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